I have a number of DA-SR decoders that I would like to test on a mainline track.
I found this complete motor assembly with flywheels for an Atlas/Kato RS-1 on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RS1-COMPETE-Motor-Assembly-with-Flywheels-ATLAS-Kato-or-Classic-HO-RS-1-/370869009738?pt=Model_RR_Trains&hash=item565983fd4a#ht_2399wt_1093
This would be a cheap way to test the decoders, so my question is, would it work to mount this assembly on a block of wood and wire four clips as rail pickups from the rails to the decoder leads?
Rich
Alton Junction
Yes, you could do that by clipping leads to the brass wires that run the length of the Kato circuit board.
FYI, I have installed over 50 DA-SR and D13SRJ NCE decoders and have never had a bad one, so I see no need to test them before installation.
This also would not be a reliable test to determine whether the locomotive you are going to install the decoder into draws too much current for the decoder's rated output. The only thing you would be determining is that the Kato motor and light bulbs, which typically draw less than 1/10 Amp with no load, is not overloading the decoder.
Just a single light bulb would give you the same result and is much cheaper.
cacole, thanks for that info.
I have an NCE DTK (Decoder Tester Kit), but I am having trouble verifying the lighting on the DA-SR using the DTK.
I went on the NCE-DCC forum on Yahoo for help, but I have received no replies.
I wonder if I am using the DTK incorrectly?
Something is not right with the way you're connecting the DA-SR decoder to the DTK. Unless you have a different version of the DTK than I do, it will not test the light functions of a DA-SR decoder because the light function connections on the decoder are not being connected to the DTK.
My DTK supports only decoders with either an 8-pin NMRA plug or a 9-pin JST header, and the DA-SR decoder has neither.
Even the Kato motor is not going to test the light function outputs of the DA-SR.
Without a proper decoder tester the only way to test the light functions of the DA-SR is to connect one set of leads from the track to the outer terminals on one end of the decoder, and another set of leads from the inner terminals on either end of the decoder to a light bulb (or LED with a 1K Ohm resistor), depending on whether you want to test the headlight or backup light function.
cacole, I wish that I had talked to you last night.
Then, I might have slept instead of tossing and turning.
LOL
I am going to take the liberty to PM you.
The NCE DTK I have is marked as REV B with the number 10164 on the back of the circuit board.
It has surface mount LEDs to indicate motor forward/reverse settings; front, rear, F1 and F2 light functions; and screw terminals for DCC input and a motor connection.
The only way to connect a decoder is with an 8-pin NMRA plug or 9-pin JST connection.
An incandescent bulb lights up to indicate proper motor functioning if no motor is connected.
Yep , I understand what you are saying.
The DA-SR is a drop in replacement for the DC board on several locos including my Athearn Genesis F7 diesels.
You need to wire the four rail pickups to the four outside terminals on the DA-SR and then connect the two motor wires from the loco to the DA-SR.
Then connect the lamp wires to the function output terminals on the DA-SR.
I did not realize that the lamps cannot be tested on the DTK when the DA-SR is connected to the DTK for testing.
Make sure you have CV122 set -- that is the CV to control F1 on NCE decoders, and it may not be factory set to anything. And note the values to make that CV directional or for an LED.
You are right. Output 3 on the DA-SR is controlled by F1 on the ProCab, and the settings can be manipulated by CV122. That all works fine.
My problem is with Output 1 on the DA-SR which is controlled by F0 (the Head Light button) on the ProCab. The factory default is CV33=1. I cannot get that light function to work, so I assume that Output 1 on the DA-SR is faulty. Can Output 1 be tested somehow with a multimeter?
The headlight function on a DA-SR or any other NCE decoder is controlled by CV120, so I don't understand why you're using CV33. Set CV120 to a value of zero (that should be the factory default) and the headlight connection should work with the controller set to forward direction and the headlight button on, which is actually controlling F0, not F1. F0 is for both the headlight and backup light, and the factory default value is zero for CV120 and 2 for CV121.
Actually, I am not technically "using" CV33. It is set to a value of 1 by factory default.
To test the decoder for light functions, I set the DA-SR to factory default (CV30=2) on the programming track using the DTK to program the CV.
Then, I moved the DA-SR/DTK assembly to the mainline to test the lighting using a 12 volt incandescent bulb. With the two wires of the bulb connected to Output 1 and Light Common on the DA-SR, I pressed the F0 (Head Light) button on my Pro Cab, but the bulb failed to light.
That leads me to conclude that Output 1 is faulty.
That will work, but I've purchased most of my complete RS-3 (same motor and mounts) for less than that.
As others have said, that won;t test the lights. The light outputs are the two center pins on each end.
What I suggest is you get some clip leads like this type:
These have a tiny hook on the end perfect for grabbing through the little hole at each terminal on the decoder, and small enough not to short against an adjacent terminal like a larger alligator clip can. They will also securely clip around bared wires and component leads, so you can clip to a resistor and LED to test the lights.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Okay, let's start from scratch. Forget the DTK, you don't need it to test the light functions.
Connect either end of the decoder to the programming track with jumper leads and perform another reset. Disconnect the leads from the programming track.
Clip jumper leads from the two inner light function terminals on the end of the decoder to the bulb. For this test, it doesn't matter which end.
Reconnect the decoder to your track with the jumper leads.
Set your ProCab to address 3; Program on the Main. Set CV120 to 0; CV121 to 2.
Exit programming mode. Press the Headlight button and the Forward/Reverse button on the ProCab to see of the light comes on. If not, connect the bulb to the other end of the decoder and try again.
If the bulb does not light when connected to ether end, then the bulb is bad, or the decoder's light functions are burned out.
If you don't have another bulb to test, try a different DA-SR decoder if you have one.
Oops, sorry to go silent for the day. I had to play in a golf event.
cacole, I did what you suggested, and I tried several other approaches as well.
I believe that Output 1 on the decoder is dead. All of the other output terminals work fine, and the Light Common terminals are fine. But, I get nothing from Output 1.
I may have fried that terminal when I first tested the decoder using the DTK. I had been using uninsulated alligator clips, actually a sliding clip, and two of those clips may have touched each other.
Randy suggested those insulated alligator clips and I had already converted to those clips on Friday but it was too late to save Output 1 which apparently has already been fried.
Live and learn. This is not the first DA-SR decoder that I have screwed up a light terminal. But it will be the last one that I screw up.
Thanks to all for you comments and advice.
rrinker That will work, but I've purchased most of my complete RS-3 (same motor and mounts) for less than that. As others have said, that won;t test the lights. The light outputs are the two center pins on each end. What I suggest is you get some clip leads like this type: These have a tiny hook on the end perfect for grabbing through the little hole at each terminal on the decoder, and small enough not to short against an adjacent terminal like a larger alligator clip can. They will also securely clip around bared wires and component leads, so you can clip to a resistor and LED to test the lights. --Randy
Randy, I have seen photos of these mini-hook terminal clips before, but exactly how do they conduct electricity. As I look at the photo, the insulation seems to cover everything including the hook.
When you press the plunger, the hook extends from the plastic casing.
Note what looks like a collar near the top of the probe. The rest of the top part where the wire is connected to it is a spring-loaded plunger that can be pressed down to expose the hook.
cacole When you press the plunger, the hook extends from the plastic casing. Note what looks like a collar near the top of the probe. The rest of the top part where the wire is connected to it is a spring-loaded plunger that can be pressed down to expose the hook.
ahh, I see. Thanks for that info, cacole.