The manual lists several recommended decoders and I installed one such, the Digitrax DN143IP. This promptly burned out in 10 minutes. I installed everything correctly, and my dealer and I determined it was the decoder.
Was it just a bad decoder or should I buy a different decoder instead of another DN143IP? Are there any Blueline F7 owners out there? Which decoder do you recommend for this particular loco?
A couple of years ago, I purchased two Blueline F7 locos from Factory Direct Trains, and they installed the NCE N14IP in each loco. I have had no problems with this decoder.
I have no experience with the Digitrax DN143IP, so i cannot comment on why it "burned out in 10 minutes".
If it was on the recommended list of decoders, and you are sure you installed everything correctly, it is possible that the decoder was faulty.
Rich
Alton Junction
Assuming that you did install your DN143IP correctly, eagle, it sounds like a bad decoder to me. I installed a Lenz Silver MP decoder in a Blueline Niagara, had no problems programming it, and have been VERY happy with it. Lenz decoders a little more expensive but it crawls like a champ at speed step 001, like - <0.5sMHP.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Incidentally, and I forgot to mention this in my earlier reply, that Digitrax decoder should be under warranty so send it in and Digitrax will repair or replace it without charge.
richhotrain Incidentally, and I forgot to mention this in my earlier reply, that Digitrax decoder should be under warranty so send it in and Digitrax will repair or replace it without charge. Rich
I have sent it in to Digitrax. I was just wondering if I should buy a different decoder instead.
Eagle:
I know that the loco should be OK with the Digitrax decoder but did you try an amps draw test of the loco before you installed the decoder? A decoder burning up after 10 minutes of use could indicate too much load due to mechanical or motor issues. Just a thought I may be way off but I would sure test it before installing a new decoder.
Joe
Good point, it may be the LOCO that is defective. You might not see that running under DC, without actually measuring the current.Given BLI's somewhat spotty QC, it's entirely possible that there is a defect causing the loco to draw much more than the normal amount of current - which would fry ANY of the 'recommended' decoders. I would definitely check before reinstalling the decoder or getting another. There's nothing inherently more fragile about the Digitrax vs the other recommendations, though I much prefer the motor control on TCS than Digitrax.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
That is an interesting posibility that a BLI Blueline loco might be at fault.
How you do conduct an amps draw test?
richhotrain That is an interesting posibility that a BLI Blueline loco might be at fault. How you do conduct an amps draw test? Rich
Rich:
One way is to set the loco up for DC running and hook an ampmeter in series with one of the leads from the DC source (power pack) to a test track. Run the loco a different speeds in both directions and observe the current used. This will uncover excessive running current draw due to motor or drive line problems. You can also do a stall current test by turning up the voltage and holding the loco down momentarily so that the wheels won't turn. Observe the current spike when you stop the wheels and promptly release the loco to avoid damaging the motor. Another test would be to block the engines path and see the current used when the wheels are spinning. If the current observed in any of these tests exceeds the max current rating for the decoder you need to either get a higher amp decoder or fix the problem.
OK, I get it. Thanks for that explanation, Joe.