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Connecting 3-lead Bi-Polar LEDs with a Tortoise

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Connecting 3-lead Bi-Polar LEDs with a Tortoise
Posted by RicZ on Saturday, June 23, 2012 3:33 PM

I have a bunch (50+) surplus, 3-legged, bi-polar (R/G) LEDs that I want to use as dwarf indicators with my Tortoise machines.  The Circuitron flyer only talks to 2-legged.  Can anyone help with teh appropriate wiring for the 3-leeged vareity?  I don't want to have to go to a bi-polare power supply, if possible.

Appreciate any help -  this is all kinda new to me.

RicZ

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  • From: Reading, PA
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Posted by rrinker on Saturday, June 23, 2012 3:58 PM

 You have to use the contacts on the Tortoise for these, they can't be wired in series with the motor like you can with a 2-wire type. You'll also need resistors for each one.

 DO you know if they are common anode (+ common) or common cathode (- common)? You'll need to know that to figure out exactly how to wire them. You can test it with a pwoer supply and resistor, hooking them up backwards won't hurt the LED, but it won;t light up. Better to get that all squared away before you permanently install a bunch and find out you have ot all backwards.

Assuming common +, the + side of your power supply would go to the common terminal on each LED in your panel with a 1K resistor for each LED. The - from the power supply would go to one of the switch terminals on the tortoise, either pin 4 or 5. If using pin 4, then pins 2 and 3 woudl go to the other two legs of the LED. 1K is probably good if the LEDs are powered by 9-12V DC.

 If they are - common on the LEDs, thent he power supply - would go to each LED via the resistor, and the + side of the power supply woudl go to the Tortoise pin 4 or 5. ANd if you use pin 5 instead of pin 4 for the indicators, then the LEDs would go to pins 6 and 7. Pin 4 is the common for the internal switch using pins 2 and 3, and pin 5 is the common for the switch using pins 6 and 7.

If the wrong color is on per turnout position, but your toggles are correct, swap the wires on the LED or at pins 2 and 3 of the Tortoise. If the wrong LED is on AND the toggles are wrong, flip the motor wires on the Tortoise, pins 1 and 8.

                           --Randy


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

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Posted by RicZ on Sunday, June 24, 2012 12:21 PM

Randy, many thanks.  You seem to have the answers to all my questions.  If I have this correct, the wiring diagram should look something like this:

Have I got it right?

RicZ

  • Member since
    April 2007
  • 229 posts
Posted by RicZ on Sunday, June 24, 2012 12:32 PM

Try again.

Randy, many thanks.  You seem to have the answers to all my questions.  If I have this correct, the wiring diagram should look something like this:

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Posted by RicZ on Sunday, June 24, 2012 1:05 PM

One last try:

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Posted by rrinker on Sunday, June 24, 2012 1:14 PM

Where are you trying to post the picture from? You have to upload it to a picture host like Photobucket first, you can't post pictures directly from your computer in here.

                  --Randy


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    April 2007
  • 229 posts
Posted by RicZ on Sunday, June 24, 2012 1:47 PM

Feelong rather stupid, but try this linkls.

http://s1055.photobucket.com/albums/s520/ezrails/

RicZ

  • Member since
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  • From: Reading, PA
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Posted by rrinker on Sunday, June 24, 2012 2:31 PM

When you view your images, there is a box labeled "Direct Link". You paste that in the box after clicking the media icon in the box here.

 

Don;t forget the resistor on the common lead of the LED, and also those wires on the toggle switch connecting the bottom left to top left and bottom right to top right - they need to cross, bottom left to top right, adn bottom right to top left. Otherwise nothign will happen when you flip the toggle.

                       --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
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  • From: Charlotte, NC
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Posted by Phoebe Vet on Sunday, June 24, 2012 2:52 PM

Randy:

I know you addressed it in your narrative, but the diagram has the DPDT switch wired wrong.

Dave

Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow

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Posted by rrinker on Sunday, June 24, 2012 3:09 PM

 Yeah, I just posted his picture, I didn't draw anything.

             --Randy


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    September 2007
  • From: Charlotte, NC
  • 6,099 posts
Posted by Phoebe Vet on Sunday, June 24, 2012 3:49 PM

rrinker

 Yeah, I just posted his picture, I didn't draw anything.

             --Randy

That makes sense.  I couldn't imagine YOU making that mistake.

Dave

Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow

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    April 2007
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Posted by RicZ on Sunday, June 24, 2012 3:49 PM

OK, I crossed the wires on the DPDT switch.  How does it look now?

http://s1055.photobucket.com/albums/s520/ezrails/

RicZ

  • Member since
    September 2007
  • From: Charlotte, NC
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Posted by Phoebe Vet on Sunday, June 24, 2012 3:56 PM

Yes.  That's it.

When you post your photobucket link, use the IMG code at the bottom of the list under the thumbnail.

Dave

Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow

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Posted by RicZ on Sunday, June 24, 2012 4:03 PM

My greatful thanks to all - I deeply appreciate your patience and support.

RiZ

  • Member since
    February 2002
  • From: Reading, PA
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Posted by rrinker on Sunday, June 24, 2012 5:51 PM

Don't forget the resistor though.

             --Randy

 


Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's

 

Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.

  • Member since
    April 2007
  • 229 posts
Posted by RicZ on Sunday, June 24, 2012 6:17 PM

Got it!

RicZ

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Posted by richhotrain on Sunday, July 1, 2012 4:57 AM

Alton Junction

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Posted by nedthomas on Monday, July 2, 2012 5:04 PM

If using one resistor in the common lead results in different intensity of the red and green LEDs use two resistors, one on the red and one on the green side. Adjust the value to suit.

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