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TSUNAMI DECODER KEEPS SHORTING OUT.

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  • Member since
    April 2011
  • From: WATERFORD CT.
  • 1 posts
TSUNAMI DECODER KEEPS SHORTING OUT.
Posted by UP MANIAC on Saturday, November 12, 2011 3:57 PM

HI GUYS. I HAVE A PROTO 2000 SD60M THAT KEEPS FRYING DECODERS. IM NOT SURE WHY. I HAVE 2 OTHERS JUST LIKE IT THAT WORK FINE. I WAS TOLD BY SOUNDTRAXX THAT THE DECODER I AM USING IS THE RGHT ONE FOR THAT MODEL. WHAT KIND OF PROBLEMB SHOULD I BE LOOKING FOR AND WHERE? I HAVE TAOSTED 2 TSU 100 BOARDS AT $101.00 A PIECE! HELP! BOTH TIMES THE LOCO RAN AND WORKED WELL FOR ABOUR 10MINS AND THEN DIED. I CAN SMELL THAT WONDERFULL BURNT UP DECODER SMELL AND I JUST DONT KNOW WHERE TO LOOK FOR THE ISSUE. ANY IDEAS WOULD BE A GREAT HELP. THANKS Crying

I HAVE BEEN AN AVID MODEL RAILROADER FOR AROUND 10 YEARS. I MOSTLY MODEL MODERN HO SCALE ON A FREE LANCED U.P. LAYOUT. MY LAYOUT SIZE IS 35FTX15FT WITH A SWITCHING YARD, LOCOMOTIVE YARD AND 2 MAIN LINES. I FIGURE THE LENGTH OF MY MAINS ARE AROUND 130FT. IT IS STILL A WORK IN PROGRESS AS MOST LAYOUTS ARE.Big Smile.  I AM CURRENTLY ATTENDING CLASSES FOR MY U.S. COAST GUARD CAPTAINS LIC.

  • Member since
    April 2004
  • From: Ontario Canada
  • 3,574 posts
Posted by Mark R. on Saturday, November 12, 2011 9:59 PM

If it runs for ten minutes just fine before it dies, I don't think it would be a short of any kind. Sounds more like it's running on the threshold of it's current rating and finally overloads and kills itself !

Take the decoder out and wire it back up for DC operation and test the current draw of the engine. Also test the stall current as well (hold the engine down so the wheels can't turn and provide 12 volts to the motor) and check the draw.

If there's something binding somewhere like the trucks, that could cause an excessive current draw that the decoder can't handle.

Best to start at square one and make sure the drive is in top condition before starting to install decoders to find the problem !

Mark.

 

¡ uʍop ǝpısdn sı ǝɹnʇɐuƃıs ʎɯ 'dlǝɥ

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Morris, Illinois USA
  • 283 posts
Posted by rockislandnut on Saturday, November 12, 2011 10:03 PM

Same goes for your signature, kill the caps.

What type system are you running? Do you have other type decoders? If so do they run ok? Where the Tsunami's factory installed or did you install them? 

Wadda ya mean I'm old ? Just because I remember gasoline at 9 cents a gallon and those big coal burning steamers.

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
  • 13,757 posts
Posted by cacole on Sunday, November 13, 2011 6:22 AM

Have you lubricated the model as you installed the decoder(s)?

DId you check the model to determine whether it ran smoothly before installing decoders?

It may have a shorted motor armature, dry gears, or some other problem that is causing it to draw too much current.

Are you trying to pull a long train that may be overloading the decoders?

Are you trying to run the locomotive using a DC power pack instead of a DCC system?

I have installed nearly 50 sound decoders of various brands and have never had one "burn up" like yours.

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,280 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Sunday, November 13, 2011 6:32 AM

Can't help you with the shorting out problem, but I feel for you with regard to the big bucks that you have shelled out and now lost as a result of frying at least two decoders.

You might ask Soundtraxx if they have a repair policy or limited warranty on the decoders. 

NCE has a policy of replacing fried decoders for free under their limited warranty, and NCE will repair a fried decoder out of warranty for a nominal fee. 

Perhaps, Soundtraxx has a similar policy?  It won't hurt to ask.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: South Carolina
  • 1,719 posts
Posted by Train Modeler on Monday, November 14, 2011 9:50 AM

I think it is probably pulling too many amps as it gets hot.    Try checking the amp pull AFTER it gets heated up.   Could be that it needs new brushes(if it's of that vintage)??   BTW, I always put Kapton tape over the bottom of the caps to avoid accidental shorting.   I normally change out or add to the capacitance as around 500 to 1000 makes for decent ability to live with dirty track/wheels.

Richard

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