If you short the gaps with a coupel of jumpers, or a pair of screwdrivers, or something, the relay shoudl click. If not, try the gaps at the other end of the loop. You should get one click. Then go to the opposite gaps and short them - there should be another click as it flips the other way.
.If it doesn;t click either way, then either it's dead, or you don;t really have a reverse loop.
The most common mistake is that the loop section has more than 1 set of feeders, adn one set is still connected to the main bus instead of the AR-1 output.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
John,
One more thing in addition to what Randy has given you:
You should have two sets of gaps - one at each end of the reverse loop. Let's call those locations "End #1" and End #2".
With the track power on, check "rail A to rail A" (NOT rail A to rail B!) at End #1 with a meter. Depending on whether the power in your loop is reversed or not, you may get a reading or you may not.
Now, perform the same test at End #2. You should get the OPPOSITE result.
That is, if Rail A to Rail A at End #1 DOES show a reading, Rail A to Rail A at End #2 should NOT show a reading.
If you get those results, short both gaps at the end that DOES have a reading. You should hear the relay click as Randy has mentioned. And if you repeat your test, now the OTHER end should be the one that gets a reading.
JRPHey everyone, Is there a way to "test" the AR-1 auto reverser besides the obvious?
While there may be ways to test the AR-1 besides the obvious, why not start with the obvious. If the AR-1 is wired correctly, and if it is still in good working order, and if the rails are properly gapped, then when a locomotive crosses the gaps into a reversing section, the AR-1 should automatically reverse the polarity so that a short is avoided.
If you are sure that your rails are gapped correctly, and if the reversing section is wired correctly, and if the AR-1 is wired correctly, then the AR-1 should work. If it doesn't, then something is wrong with the AR-1.
Tell us more about your layout and your wiring and the location of the rail gaps.
Rich
Alton Junction
Hey Guys.
Does anyone answering the original poster actually have the Zephyr and the AR1? I had them both and never could get the Ar1 to trip before the Zephyr kicked out. I finally returned both items.Just my thoughts.
Keep on trucking. Uh, railroading
Lee
If the Zephyr is indicating short instead of the AR-1 reversing, close OpSw 18 to extend the short circuit delay to 1/2 second, as described int eh back of the manual. this will give the AR-1 time to react before the Zephyr detects the short.
yankee flyer Hey Guys. Does anyone answering the original poster actually have the Zephyr and the AR1? I had them both and never could get the Ar1 to trip before the Zephyr kicked out. I finally returned both items. Lee
Does anyone answering the original poster actually have the Zephyr and the AR1? I had them both and never could get the Ar1 to trip before the Zephyr kicked out. I finally returned both items.
Lee, I suppose that you raise a good point, but it reminds me of the guy a while back who strongly suggested that if you don't have N scale, then don't respond to N scale questions.
I don't own the Zephyr DCS50. Instead, I run 4 AR-1's with an NCE PH-Pro. Having said that, the Zephyr DCS50 and the AR-1 are both Digitrax products, so one would assume (perhaps wrongly) that the two items are compatible.
You seem to be saying that the items are not compatible, so they cannot be used together. Is that your point?
JRPThe attached track diagram should tell you a lot. Even though it shows the PSX-AR, I disconnected that and tried each of my two AR-1's again. No clicks were heard at either end. I have a true reverse loop as you can see and even ran a dedicated bus (14 gauge) for just the loop with feeders (as the diagram shows), and tested the AR-1's with the bus and without. Still no clicks. I have staggered gaps in the correct places (yes, I even tried gaps straight across early on). Yet I still have issues even with my 3rd PSX-AR which Tony's Exchange cannot seem to solve either. Maybe I should remove the loop altogether??
The attached track diagram does help a lot. I traced it out on a sheet of paper and you are correct about the location of the reversing section. Your rail gaps are in the correct positions, and the wiring as you have shown it is correct. So, the AR-1 should be working. Since it is not, it could be toast, but I find that hard to believe, so I understand your original question about how to test the unit beyond the obvious.
As one of the replies suggested, perhaps the Zephyr DCS50 and the AR-1 are incompatible even though they are both Digitrax products. That may be since the Zephyr DCS50 is a basic starter unit. I assume that you have followed the Tunable Trip Current (TTC) Adjustment instructions in the AR-1 manual.
As far as the PSX-AR not working either, that does not surprise me. Even when the AR-1 is working properly, this forum is littered with threads about problems with getting the PSX-AR to work properly.
My suggestion is to email Digitrax and report your problem. They are pretty good about responding fairly quickly.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Do as Randy suggested and close option switch 18 on your Zephyr. That will slow the short circuit response on the Zephyr to 1/2 second. Slow enough to allow the AR1 to respond first.
If the Zephyr should ever be reset to defaults by closing Option switch 39, option switch 18 will have to be closed again.
Martin Myers
Not at all, I prefer not to tell people what to do. I did NOT have good luck with Digitrax DCS50 and the AR1. and was hoping someone with that combination would chime in.My DCS50 would not start up with two sound engines on the track.Once up and running, I could not get the reverse loop to work, among other things. The third unit I sent back and got my money back.
Plugged in my Power Cab and life's good.My point was, someone actually using the DCS50 might be more help.
No offence intended.
JRPMartin (or Randy), How exactly do I "close option switch 18" on my Zephyr?? I don't understand what you mean. Can you be more specific? It sounds like it makes sense to slow the short circuit response, I just need to understand how to do this. Thanks fellas. John
Well, I'm not Martin or Randy, but the answer is RTFM. Section 28.0.
Give a man a fish, and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish, and you feed him for a lifetime.
John its in, I beleive the very back pages of the ownerers manual for the zephyr ,got to read it a few times to get the idea ,but its not hard,I should of tryed it with the prx-ar too...Jerry
yankee flyer Hey Guys. Does anyone answering the original poster actually have the Zephyr and the AR1? I had them both and never could get the Ar1 to trip before the Zephyr kicked out. I finally returned both items.
Yup, I used both on my last layout (my current layout doesn't yet have the reverse loops installed). Both worked together with no trouble. It took a little trial and error turning the adjustment control on the AR-1 to where it tripped when it was supposed to, but once it was set it worked fine from then until I took the layout down a couple years later.