rrinker Just add a DPDT switch to the turntable deck feeder, wired with an X pattern for a reversing switch. If you spin the table 180 degrees and want to drive off the opposite end you entered, just flipt eh toggle. DC reversing methods still work with DCC, you don't HAVE to automate things. --Randy
Just add a DPDT switch to the turntable deck feeder, wired with an X pattern for a reversing switch. If you spin the table 180 degrees and want to drive off the opposite end you entered, just flipt eh toggle.
DC reversing methods still work with DCC, you don't HAVE to automate things.
--Randy
There I go overlooking the obvious. Thanks Randy.
It IS way cooler to have the autoreverser, but the 'old ways' still work.
WIth an autoreverser all you have to worry about is making sure the turntable bridge is lined up with track so you don't put a loco in the pit. If the turntable has an identifying feature on one side, like a control cabin at only 1 end, or somethign like that, you can use that to identify when to throw the toggle, it's easy to get confused. If it's wrong the loco will short when leaving the bridge, no biggy, just flip the toggle. Once you get used to which way the toggle has to be you'll flip it before any trouble and just drive off.
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
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When converting a locomotive, do you need a special decoder made for the system, loco, both or neither?
Acela
The timbers beneath the rails are not the only ties that bind on the railroad. --Robert S. McGonigal
Acela026 When converting a locomotive, do you need a special decoder made for the system, loco, both or neither? Acela
Most decoders work with any system but there are fine points. There are many variables when fine tuning decoders. All decoders, non-sound and sound have different characteristics, depending on the brand. Really too broad a question. You need a lot of DCC education.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
richg1998 You need a lot of DCC education. Rich
You need a lot of DCC education.
Yeah, I know To be specific, the system is NCE's Power Cab, and the locomotives I have right now to convert are:
Hopefully that helps...
Acela026 richg1998: You need a lot of DCC education. Rich Yeah, I know To be specific, the system is NCE's Power Cab, and the locomotives I have right now to convert are: Spectrum F40PH (~2004) IHC GG1 (~2003) AHM BL-2 (Pre-2000's) Bachmann? SW-1 (1990's) Hopefully that helps...
richg1998: You need a lot of DCC education. Rich
Pick up yourself a copy of Lionel Strang's book DCC Made Easy. It is pretty basic and should help you somewhat. I found it helpful. Also, you might want to learn how to solder, if you don't already know how. You can pick up a rather inexpensive soldering iron at Sears or Wal-Mart. You might find the pencil soldering iron will be more helpful instead of the soldering gun.
Will
Acela026 Yeah, I know To be specific, the system is NCE's Power Cab, and the locomotives I have right now to convert are: Spectrum F40PH (~2004) IHC GG1 (~2003) AHM BL-2 (Pre-2000's) Bachmann? SW-1 (1990's) Hopefully that helps...
Acela, a piece of advice, start a new thread for additional questions like this as you will find you get many more answers since the current thread title has no real bearing on what you are now asking about.
All 4 of the locos you mention are going to require hard soldered decoders.
I have done one of the Spectrum F40PH's and it is a split frame loco very much like the one in this link
http://www.tcsdcc.com/public_html/Customer_Content/Installation_Pictures/HO_Scale/Bachmann/Spectrum_Dash_8-40CW/Spectrum%20Dash%208-40CW.html
The method for any of these split frame spectrums is the same. I have used TCS, as in the link example, and have also used NCE decoders in these types of locos. If you are going to do these, then take the time to replace the lighting as well with LED's.
Not sure about the IHC GG1, but I suspect that this will be a hard solder install as well. If it is like the other IHC locos I have done, all the internal wiring is black and so you have to be careful about which wire performs what function.
The AHM is fairly ancient. It will also be a hard wire job and may not be worth doing. Given its age, one of the things to be careful about is the current draw of the motor.
Bottom line is that you have 4 quite old models here that are not DCC ready and will need careful hard wired decoder installation. All will need to have their motors checked to see if they are (a) high current pullers and (b) if they are isolated. I am certain that all are possible to convert to DCC. If you want sound, well that is a different matter.
Without getting overly complex, any DCC decoder made by any of the main manufacturers will work with any DCC system. I have Digitrax, NCE, TCS, Lenz, Soundtraxx, QSI and Bachmann decoders quite happily running on my Digitrax system, and you would have the same result with your PowerCab.
Simon Modelling CB&Q and Wabash See my slowly evolving layout on my picturetrail site http://www.picturetrail.com/simontrains and our videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCrispybake?feature=mhum
I figure that for the AHM I might just keep it DC. Or I could remove the motor and turn it into a lighted dummy...I like the realistic look of LED's!