Recommendation for good soldering iron.

[farrellaa]

I have been unhappy with the soldering irons that I currently have/use and would like to see what others use or would recommend. I have a Radio Shack dual wattage 20/40 set with stand and I can't keep the tip clean. It is solid copper and as soon as I clean it, it gets a black coating that won't let the solder tin it very well. I have another small 20 watt iron with similar problems that I don't even use anymore. I was looking at the one from All Electronics and wondered if anyone is using this one or a similar one OR what would you recommend. I need it for installing decoders in my HO locos and for wiring the feeders to the track. Any help would be really appreciated. ALSO, I have a budget of about $50 so I can't opt for some of the resistance types, if they are even what I would need?

Thanks,

Bob

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/IR-25/25-WATT-ECONOMY-SOLDERING-IRON/1.html

[TomDiehl]

If there's a variety of replacement tips available for your present iron, get an iron clad tip instead of a copper one. Initial tinning of the tip is important to the long life of the tip. Wipe the tip with a brite boy then turn on the heat. As soon as it's hot enough, coat the tip with solder and quickly wipe off the excess with a wet sponge. NEVER dip the tip in solder flux, there is a special cleaning solution for hot tips, but the best I've found is a simple wet sponge. The black residue you're seeing is probably burned solder flux. It's important to clean this off to prevent damage to the tip. The tip should always be a shiny silver color when hot.

Depending on how much of your present tip is left, you can file the tip down to clean metal (while cold) then heat it up and try tinning it as above.

[farrellaa]

Radio Shack has a replacement tip that is silver in color; I don't know what material it is though. When you say clean with a 'bright boy' , is that the same abrasive rubber that I use to clean the track with? I will order a new tip and see what that does. I usually clean the tip with a wire brush to get down to bare copper and then flux and tin, but apparently this is part of my problem. My current tip is quite small and worn down. Thanks for the tips (no pun intended here!).

Bob

[tstage]

Bob,

Sounds like you have the same Radio Shack (RS) soldering iron station I used to have.  When I tried to get a replacement tip for my 20/40W station, I was told by RS that they didn't make one for that model anymore.

Rather than plunk down more money for another RS soldering station, I decided I'd save my pennies and buy a Weller station instead.  I picked up a new WESD51 50W soldering station off eBay for ~$100, discounted.

The WESD51 comes with an LED display base station (adjustable between 350-850 degrees), a soldering pencil, stand, and sponge.  I've used ones similar to these at my prior workplace and they are terrific.

Weller does make a good, less expensive 40W iron for ~$40-50.

Although you don't have individual temperature control like you do with the WESD51, at least you'd be able to get replacement tips for the soldering pencil.

Hope that helps, Bob...

Tom

[rrinker]

 This is the updated version of the one I have, my model was $49 a couple of years ago, and doesn't have the digital display. I'm still on the original tip although I bought a couple of spares when I bought the solderign station. This is the advantage of a temperature controlled sodlerign station, it only gets so hot and stays there. A regualr soldering iron continues to heat as long as it's plugged in - this is why things melt, the tips oxidize quickly, and so forth. Turned down, I cna do things like shrink ehat shrink tube without it sticking to the iron and burning liek happens when you try to use an ordinary soldering iron. Turned up it handles solderign track with no problems, haven't melted a tie yet with it - excpet the one time the tip slipped off the rail, but that wa direct tip to plastic contact, of course it will melt something.

http://www.howardelectronics.com/xytronic/lf369D.html

This is also the place I bought it from, quick shipping and no problems whatsoever.

                              --Randy

[jeffrey-wimberly]

Back in the early 80's I used a 30 watt soldering iron that I got from Radio Shack and found it to be extremely unsatisfactory. It was slow to heat up and wouldn't hold it's heat when brought in contact with the rails. Soldering track joints was a hit and miss affair with most being miss. Then I got Radio Shacks 100 watt soldering gun and I never looked back at the low watt soldering irons. Today I use a Weller 140/100 watt soldering gun that I picked up at Lowe's for $30. If you're lucky you can find it on sale for $20-$25. With it I can do one track joint in four seconds or less and never melt a tie and never have to use a heat sink.

[farrellaa]

I have one of these Weller guns but it is too big for soldering decoder wires. I haven't tried it for track joints but it may work there, it just seems to be bulky for this application. I use if for soldering wire joints in house wiring and other larger aps.

Thanks

[farrellaa]

Randy,

I did a search for the Xytronic model 369 and found a great price on it and the 379 model which I like from the descriptions and reviews. Electronix Express has some great prices. Will most likely order one from them. Thanks for your input and advice on this. Thanks to all of the guys that responded.

Bob

http://www.elexp.com/sdr_y379.htm

[jeffrey-wimberly]

farrellaa

I have one of these Weller guns but it is too big for soldering decoder wires. I haven't tried it for track joints but it may work there, it just seems to be bulky for this application. I use if for soldering wire joints in house wiring and other larger aps.

Thanks

I assume you mean soldering wires to decoders. I have no problem doing it as long as the decoder isn't too small (N-Z Scale). It makes a quick job of hard wiring a decoder into a loco. I tried one of those little battery powered jobs they advertised on TV. My advice on them is to avoid them.

[cmrproducts]

Jeffrey

This is what I use - Weller 100/140

I prefer the older units that have the nuts that screw into the ends of the gun.

I usually am able to pick these up at flea markets and yard sales for $10.00

They are almost brand new as they were a gift and Dad never learned how to solder using the junk solder the kit had.

I replace the tip with a proper length of #12 solid copper wire.

It heats great and I can bend it into what ever shape I need and size of tip.

Yes it soon breaks - but I have rolls of solid copper wire ;-)

BOB H - Clarion, PA

 

jeffrey-wimberly

Then I got Radio Shacks 100 watt soldering gun and I never looked back at the low watt soldering irons. Today I use a Weller 140/100 watt soldering gun that I picked up at Lowe's for $30. If you're lucky you can find it on sale for $20-$25. With it I can do one track joint in four seconds or less and never melt a tie and never have to use a heat sink.

[Stevert]

farrellaa

I usually clean the tip with a wire brush to get down to bare copper and then flux and tin, but apparently this is part of my problem.

Bob,

  Yup, that's your problem.  You should tin your iron with solder only, no flux.  As was previously noted, the black residue that builds up is excessive flux.

[rrinker]

 Once your tip is down to bare copper is isn;t long for this world. Soldering iron tips are generally plates to better stand up to the heat and so forth, using an abrasive or filign them down greatly shortens the life as the hot copper oxidizes very quickly.

The BEST tip wiper is a copper sponge, you can get them at the grocery store, they are meant to clean copper pots. Works better than a wet sponge and it doesn;t cool the iron down.Usually this is sufficient, but to toally clean the tip use some tip tinner, you can get it at Radio Shack or online - basically it's sal ammoniac that reacts with the impurties that have gathered and leave the tip perfectly shiny. When shutting off the iron, leave a blob of solder on the tip to protect it and keep it shiny. Wipe this off when the iron heats up next time, of course, but you'll find a nice shiny tip underneath.

                           --Randy

           

[richg1998]

Below is what I use. After soldering, I clean the area, rosin flux, with alcohol using an acid brush.There are times the flux is helpful.

The solder is a very expensive Quad Eutectic solder which eliminates little solder balls that can form when soldering connections close to each other. The flow characteristics are quite different from standard electrical solder.

Go with a good electrical solder, about 1/32 inch diameter.

Two size tips. The conical is used for decoder and PC boards. I run the temp at 50 percent.

The wide tip for soldering feeders and I run the temp at about 75 percent.

The tip cleaner helps clean the tip when the iron is not used for a little while.

Good soldering is achieved by developing a procedure and preparation. Taking shortcuts can hinder the soldering process.

Remember, when some tell you soldering is easy, they have been doing it for a while.

Rich

[rrinker]

 It IS easy - the key is using the correct tool for the job. You MIGHT be able to work around not having the correct tool, but that is when things bight you on the rear end.

 Prime example: small electronics iron and solderign rail - the low power iron will take SO long to heat the joint enough to melt solder, you'll be melting ties left and right. Sure it sounds contrary to logic, but you want the higher heat to get the joint area hot before the heat spreads to places you don't want it. Fine wires on electronic components and thin decoder wire heats up VERY fast, so you don't need as much heat to get the solder to flow - and the less heat transferred into electronic components the better.

 Now I'm not saying it's so easy you cna pick up a soldering iron for the first time and crank out perfect joints - it does take some practice. But it doesn't take years of it. Not if you have the proper type of iron, the proper tip, and above all KEEP THE TIP CLEAN. If the ip is blackening - it needs to be cleaned. A black oxidized tip will NOT transfer heat properly and will result in you having to hold the tip on the work far too long, or both pieces in the joint not being heated so the solder only sticks to one side or the other. Just the simple rule of keepign the tip clean and shiny at all times will result in good joints nearly every time, even for someone without a lot of soldering experience.

                            --Randy

[TomDiehl]

farrellaa

Radio Shack has a replacement tip that is silver in color; I don't know what material it is though. When you say clean with a 'bright boy' , is that the same abrasive rubber that I use to clean the track with? I will order a new tip and see what that does. I usually clean the tip with a wire brush to get down to bare copper and then flux and tin, but apparently this is part of my problem. My current tip is quite small and worn down. Thanks for the tips (no pun intended here!).

Bob

Yes, the bright boy I'm talking about is the track cleaning variety. One of the other things I use is a wire brush the size of a tooth brush, which is sepecially good for cleaning off the black residue from the flux.

I learned to solder back in the 60's, so the plated tips may not be iron clad any more, but the plated tips will give you longer life, and last for years if you take care of them properly.

[richg1998]

TomDiehl

 

farrellaa:

 

Radio Shack has a replacement tip that is silver in color; I don't know what material it is though. When you say clean with a 'bright boy' , is that the same abrasive rubber that I use to clean the track with? I will order a new tip and see what that does. I usually clean the tip with a wire brush to get down to bare copper and then flux and tin, but apparently this is part of my problem. My current tip is quite small and worn down. Thanks for the tips (no pun intended here!).

Bob

 

 

Yes, the bright boy I'm talking about is the track cleaning variety. One of the other things I use is a wire brush the size of a tooth brush, which is sepecially good for cleaning off the black residue from the flux.

I learned to solder back in the 60's, so the plated tips may not be iron clad any more, but the plated tips will give you longer life, and last for years if you take care of them properly.

DO NOT EVER FILE OR SAND PLATED TIPS. THEY ARE PLATED FOR A REASON.

Search the Internet for plated soldering iron tips and get some more education on the subject.

Proper use of tip cleaner and the wet sponge or wet paper towel is all you need.

Filing iron tips went out years ago.

If you want to clean a spot on a rail to solder a feeder, use a Scratch Brush from Micro Mark. Many use the brush which is pretty much designed for this purpose. Do not use it on a soldering iron tip that is plated. Again, only tip cleaner and sponge is needed to clean a tip. I value my soldering iron tips.

I have used my soldering iron on low heat to weld plastic and it cruds up the tip. I cut plastic draw bars in half that are too long and weld them together to make a shorter draw bar. Plastic glue will not work on engineering plastic. Almost like welding metal.

Sometimes I do a little wood burning with the iron for fancy wood projects.

Tip cleaner and sponge makes the crud go away.

Rich

[farrellaa]

Thanks for the very helpful info. I have decided to purchase the Zytronic 379 which has a plated tip and also offer optional tips with other shapes. I did find a replacement tip online at Radio Shack for 6.99 plus shipping?? I will pass on this and go for the new iron. Thanks again to all of you that have offered your experience and recommendations.

Bob

[modelmaker51]

Your problem (the OP), has nothing to do with the iron or the type of tip it has. It's all about keeping the tip clean. Even with the new iron and plated tips, your still going to have to clean the tip with tip cleaner. Radio Shack sells it in a little tin can. When you start a session, let the iron fully heat up, (give it 5 minutes), then let the tip melt into the tip cleaner, give it a twist back and forth and then wipe off the tip with a damp (not wet) sponge. Now wet the tip of the iron with a little bit of solder and wipe again and you're ready to go. Always wipe the tip on the damp sponge before you solder and after. If the tip starts getting dull (no longer shiney), it's time for the tip cleaner. If you keep the tip clean, any iron and/or tip will do. The main advantage of a plated tip is it stays clean longer and doesn't wear as fast. Copper tips hold their heat better, but of course need to be cleaned more often. Never dip the tip in the flux.