Ok, you all, I need your help. Somewhat new to DCC. I have a Proto 2000 SD9 that I'm trying to convert to DCC. I tried fitting a Digitrax DH165L0 onto the 8 pin connector on the lightboard, but there is a piece of electronics (cylindrical-resistor? capacitor?) that is getting in the way of plugging the DH into the 8 pin. So, the DH165 is a no go. By the way, this board looks different than the other pictures I've seen: the board is green instead of white and there is this thing in the way of the 8 pin plug.
Anyone have any suggestions of what decoder will actually fit? Would it be better to replace the board? What replacement board will fit? Some possibilities might be a TCS LL8 or T1P-MH? The current board has 4 screws holding it in place. And is there any chance of adding sound?
Thanks in advance for all the help!
I used NCE D13SRJ decoders in my pair of Proto 2000 SD9s.
Can't help with the sound issue.
Rich
Alton Junction
I installed a decoder that came with an extension for the 8 pin socket. At the moment I have no idea what brand it was. Maybe a search of decoder web sites would yeld something. Most of the decoders I have installed in the last year have been NCE and TCS.
South Penn
If its like most Proto 2000 you have all the important wires attached to a plug with plastic press fit holders. You pull this off the screwed on light board. Remove the Proto 2000 light board and replace it with any of the following boards. Digitrax DH165LO, NCE PLKSR or a TCS LL8. These usually have at least one screw hole that will line up with those in the top of the locos weight. Make sure there is something underneath to insulate the decoder from the frame. At this point you simply plug the plug that is attached to the wires from the loco on to the pins on the decoder, make sure the orange wire hole on the plug is matched up with the number one pin on the decoder. Its usually marked. All stuff you probably know.
I have seen some Proto 2000s that need the decoder to be turned the opposite direction due to things in the way. I think I used the TCS for this and it sounds like that might be your problem. You can also use an extension that TCS sells.
Does it look like this?
http://marketplace-images.collector-modeltrains.com/18366aa716306e6b6c986981d61cd98f8b81c16d-20140225-135456-C1-Trainz-3623217-04.jpg
If so I would use a standard 9 pin and an extension.
Or this?
http://marketplace-images.collector-modeltrains.com/a14772d9d79ef797c2a6220fbb0ebcf41bef4cc6-20141208-074646-C1-Trainz-3702837-01.jpg
Here again I think a 9 pin with extension into the cab would work. You may have to replace the bulbs though on both of these.
SB
It looks like the first photo. So you think the TCS LL8 would be my best bet? I'm just trying to avoid buying a bunch of different decoders. It can be confusing at times, just the sheer number of possibilities!
Neal
I also have a DH165LO and because of the tolerances, the board won't plug into the 8 pin socket. It's really tight with that other piece of electronics in the way. It looks like the TCS LL8 might be my best bet!
The photo below is from the TCS installation pictures for the LL P2000 SD7. Although the board pictured is white it looks very much like the first photo posted by blabride. TCS recommends its T1P-MH (T1 with medium harness). Good luck!
NealR It looks like the first photo. So you think the TCS LL8 would be my best bet? I'm just trying to avoid buying a bunch of different decoders. It can be confusing at times, just the sheer number of possibilities! Neal
The D13SRJ is a six function output decoder.
Three...our THREE functions are...
D13SRJ has 4, despite the 3 in the number. Originally they had 3, then they upgraded it and connected the 4th function in the 9 pin. NCE's new site is messed up. It also says the D15SR is 6 functions. But correctly lists the D13SR and D13SRP as 4. Instructions for the D13SRJ say 4.
Anyway, take that TCS picture, and remove the JUNK that is the P2K board in that loco (you have to remove it to cut traces anyway) and just hard wire the decoder in. That's how I do maybe 90% of my installs. It's much easier with no weird factory boards that try to give the same effects for DC as DCC to worry about. It's very obvious in locos like that which wires come from the right side of the trucks, which come from the left, and which go to the motor. Hard wire, but use a decoder like the D13SRJ or TCS T1 that has a 9 pin harness so the decoder can be removed or replaced later if needed.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker Three...our THREE functions are... D13SRJ has 4, despite the 3 in the number. Originally they had 3, then they upgraded it and connected the 4th function in the 9 pin. NCE's new site is messed up. It also says the D15SR is 6 functions. But correctly lists the D13SR and D13SRP as 4. Instructions for the D13SRJ say 4.
I recently installed DCC in a P2k SD7/9 (mine happens to be a 7). I used the same decoder as Rich, the NCE D13SRJ. I threw out the P2k board and the light bulbs. You should install LEDs or smaller bulbs. The P2k bulbs will turn your beautiful loco shell into a useless hulk of melted plastic if you take out the factory board.
Thanks for the tip. Having never installed or hardwired a board into this particular loco, the NCE seems to be my best bet. Also, I've never purchased LED's for any of my locos, I am at a loss to know what to buy and how to install. Are all LED's pretty much the same? Where would you recommend I purchase said LED's? I guess what I need are specs. Do I need to add resistors, or will the new board handle the LED's? Sorry for all the questions.
BMMECNYC I recently installed DCC in a P2k SD7/9 (mine happens to be a 7). I used the same decoder as Rich, the NCE D13SRJ. I threw out the P2k board and the light bulbs. You should install LEDs or smaller bulbs. The P2k bulbs will turn your beautiful loco shell into a useless hulk of melted plastic if you take out the factory board.
And decoder with wires will install exactly the same. The NCE ones are great economy decoders. If you want BEMF, consider a TCS, like the T1.
You want golden white LEDs for a first generation diesel, unless you model more modern times, then you can use a Sunny White. I mostly use Miniatronics - they call them Yelo-Glo. You will need a 1K 1/4 watt or 1/8 watt resistor for each LED.