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Building a new layout and have never used DCC before

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Building a new layout and have never used DCC before
Posted by 88gta350 on Wednesday, March 6, 2013 12:20 AM

I've been out of the hobby for 10-15 years.  I've never used DCC before and when I was in the hobby the electrical stuff is where I always lost interest.  My brain has never been able to wrap itself around all the wiring and electrical theory.

On my new layout, just a 4x8 to practice getting back into the swing of things, I wanted to use DCC to try to simplify the wiring and because I'd use it on any future, larger layout and I want to get familiar with it.  I bought "Basic DCC Wiring for Your Model Railroad" by Mike Polsgrove but I was a bit overwhelmed with information and yet I don't feel I got enough detail on any individual section to understand it completely. What resources are out there, short of buying more books, that can help a serious electrical beginner truly understand and work with DCC?  I'm looking for information on choosing a system, the differences between them, the pieces I'll need, and the actual wiring itself, which is my biggest hurdle.

Thanks.

Dave M
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Posted by jrbernier on Wednesday, March 6, 2013 12:56 AM

Dave,

  There are some items you need to consider:

  • Number of locomotives you will run at the same time - Just you or you and a friend..  Figure about .25 amps  per locomotive(.35-.50 if they are sound equipped).
  • Expandability - You are talking about 'growing' into a larger layout at some point.
  • Computer Interface - Bet you never thought about this one!  Being able to program your engines without the endless 'button pushing' on a throttle is very nice, and you can save your work to a file on the computer.  Also, you can use that interface to operate detectors/clocks/signals.

  For a home layout, there are several good starter systems:

  • Digitrax Zephyr Xtra - 3 amps
  • NCE Power Cab - 1.7 amps
  • MRC Prodigy Express - 1.8 amps(IIRC)

  Both the Digitrax & NCE systems are built to be expandable with minimum cost.  The MRC system expansion can get costly rather fast.

Both Digitrax & NCE can have a computer attached and support the free JMRI software.  The computer interface option on the MRC systems is 'closed' and is limited to their own software.

  NCE & MRC include a hand held throttle - Digitrax has a throttle built into the system case.  All can have additional hand held throttles added(wired or wireless).

  Now, the next thing to consider is what do folks near your use for DCC?  In our area, most everyone uses Digitrax, including the club.  75 miles away, there is a lot of NCE users.  Having a throttle that works with most everyone else holds a lot of weight in a buying decision.  Being able to get local 'support' is not easy when you are the lone man out.

  There are other brands available in the US(usually EasyDCC or Lenz) - Both are good systems.  Bachmann also has a couple of offerings - but they are very limited.  If you get one of their EZ Command systems packaged with a DCC equipped engine, try it out.  Just be aware that it does not support 4 digit loco addressing and many of the other features of most systems, and at only a 1 amp capacity - it is a little 'lean' for anything other than just running an engine on a loop of track.

Jim

Modeling BNSF  and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin

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Posted by 88gta350 on Wednesday, March 6, 2013 4:24 AM

Jim, thanks for the good info.  With a 4x8 I'd just be running one or two engines for the foreseeable future but I would like the option to expand as a room-sized layout is a future goal.  My local club (I'm not a member yet) uses Digitrax.  But I'd only need that if I wanted to take my throttle there, correct?  I could take my engine there and run without problems using one of their throttles couldn't I?  

Another thing I would want to consider is accessories.  I'd want to control things like turnouts with the DCC. Do the systems you listed support that right out of the box?  What about the ability to control layout lighting effects, like street lights or building interiors?  Can that be done through a cab?  If so, would I need a decoder for each individual light I wanted to control? That would get expensive quick.

Thanks for the info.  I feel like I've been thrown into the deep end of the DCC pool and I'm just learning how to swim.

Dave M
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Posted by richhotrain on Wednesday, March 6, 2013 5:05 AM

88gta350

With a 4x8 I'd just be running one or two engines for the foreseeable future but I would like the option to expand as a room-sized layout is a future goal.  

Another thing I would want to consider is accessories.  I'd want to control things like turnouts with the DCC.

I feel like I've been thrown into the deep end of the DCC pool and I'm just learning how to swim.

A starter system is all you need for a 4 x 8 layout.  But, if you are considering a room sized layout as a future goal, do yourself a favor and purchase a larger DCC system at the outset.  Also, give some consideration to a wireless system so that you are not held hostage to a tethered throttle.  A command station, a 5 amp booster, and a throttle make up a good DCC system which can handle almost anything short of  club layout.  A wireless system would include an antenna and wireless base station.

Think long and hard before you equip your turnouts with decoders.  That may add an element of complexity and added cost that is not worth it in my opinion.  It is often a lot easier to use manual throws on your turnouts or a switch machine like a Tortoise that can be controlled by a toggle switch on the fascia or control panel.  While decoder controlled turnouts seem neat, I just considered them cumbersome.

Regarding your feeling that you have been thrown into the deep end of the DCC pool and just learning how to swim, learning the basics of DCC are far easier than you are imagining.  Setting up the command station and booster are a snap. It is no more complex that setting up a stereo receiver and a pair of speakers.  For wiring, it is a matter of stringing a pair of bus wires under the layout and then bringing up power to the rails with pairs of feeder wires.  That's it.

The more complex elements of DCC are decoder installation and decoder programming.  If you limit your early purchases to DCC equipped locomotives, you don't have to concern yourself with decoder installation.  As far as programming a decoder, your main task will be to understand CVs, that Configuration Variables.  A decoder relies on CVs to tell it how to run the loco, the lights, the sound, the forward or backward motion, the address of the locomotive for identification purposes.  All decoders are set to factory defaults, so the only thing you may need to program at the outset is the locomotive's address which is typically the road number on the cab.

As long as you are not afraid of the water, you don't even have to know how to swim.

Rich 

Alton Junction

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Posted by tstage on Wednesday, March 6, 2013 6:55 AM

Dave,

For some additional reading information to help you get your brain around DCC:

DCC for Beginners - From Tony's Train Exchange, this primer can either be read online or downloaded onto your computer

DCC Made Easy (Lionel Strange/Kalmbach) - The author has a real knack for explaining complexities into very understandable terms.  The books a bit dated now but still a very good resource for understanding DCC.

Dave, with a 4 x 8 you can essentially operate your layout with just two wires - it's THAT simple.  Just hook it up the same exact way you would if you were running it on DC and you're ready to go.

If you have the resources, a 5-amp system is nice but not necessary.  A starter system that is expandable will suit you just fine in your situation.  Digitrax and NCE both make two very good ones: The Zephyr Xtra and the Power Cab, respectively.

I'm glad that I bought the NCE Power Cab first rather than their 5-amp PH Pro.  The Power Cab is an all-in-one system and I can use at either my bench or my layout to program locomotives.  I expanded by buying their 5-amp Smart Booster (SB3a - now, SB5), which is attached to the layout.  And I can still use the Power Cab at either my bench or layout. Big Smile

Tom

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Posted by MisterBeasley on Wednesday, March 6, 2013 7:08 AM

You're getting good advice so far.

I returned to the hobby after a 40-year absence.  I went with DCC almost from the start, and I immediately turned back into a 8-year-old kid.  Yes, it has that kind of transformative power.

DCC can be as complex as you can handle, or almost as simple as a Christmas tree loop.  Generally, you add the complexity incrementally, so as your understanding grows, so does your enjoyment and the functionality of your system.  So, for example, I'd hold off on running turnouts from the DCC throttle for a while.  You can always add it later.  Even that can be done incrementally - you can run some turnouts on DCC and some with traditional toggles or pushbuttons, or you can wire your panel controls to the DCC controls and flip your turnouts whichever way you'd like.  Neat, huh?  For the record, I have 30 or 40 turnouts on my layout, all controlled by toggle switches on fascia panels.  I've just come across the first one that will be DCC controlled, because of the awkward geometry of the layout, the room, and my somewhat corpulent carcass.

In theory, you can run DCC with just two wires from the base station to the track, but, like DC, this will generally not be reliable.  Read up on wiring a track bus with lots of feeders to the track all the way along the layout.  Solid trackwork is the key to enjoyable, derailment-free running, and a solid track bus with feeders is the key to enjoyable, stall-free operation.

I've got a Lenz System 100, and it has been a solid and reliable unit for 8 years now.  It is a 5-amp system out of the box, no booster required, and comes with a tethered throttle.  I've wired my layout with 8 jacks around the perimeter, and bought a second throttle.  I might add a wireless throttle some day, but for now I'm pretty happy with what I've got.

Since your club runs Digitrax, though, I would recommend one of their systems for you.  Note that the Zephyr combines the throttle with the base station, so you would need an additional throttle if you want walk-around capability.

Before you buy any new engines, you owe it to yourself to go to a train shop or show and listen to today's sound locomotives.  Not everyone likes sound, but many of us think it adds a lot.  You can buy a DC-only locomotive or a DCC--no-sound locomotive and add sound later, but the best (and, surprisingly, generally the cheapest) option for sound is to buy the engine that way from the factory.

And, welcome aboard!   Welcome

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

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Posted by cowman on Wednesday, March 6, 2013 7:55 AM

Welcome back to the hobby.

I'm currently DC, but thinking DCC on a new layout.  I understand that the wiring is simpler and a special part is needed if I want a reverse loop.  You will need locos with decoders.  For a small layout, if you have some favorite locos that you want to convert, check with your local hobby shop and get an estimate.  As Mr B mentions, buying locos with DCC and sound already installed is the least cost way to go for new purchases.

Have fun,

Richard

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Posted by RideOnRoad on Wednesday, March 6, 2013 8:51 AM

A novice follow-up question:  Are the decoders universal or are they specific to a given manufacture's control unit?

Richard

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Posted by tstage on Wednesday, March 6, 2013 9:04 AM

Decoders that are NMRA-compliant can be used with any manufacturer's DCC system.  The one exception would be MTH.  MTH decoders are optimized to be used with their proprietary DCS system.

And, while MTH locomotives do operate on DCC, they are somewhat limited when used with a DCC system - i.e. accessing certain sound and programming CVs.  You also can NOT operate a non-MTH decoder with a MTH DCS system.

Tom

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Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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Posted by gandydancer19 on Wednesday, March 6, 2013 9:42 AM

On your layout, you can keep the wiring systems separate if you want to. That is; use the DCC system for controlling the trains, and use the old DC method for controlling the turnouts, building lights, etc. - OR - everything can be done from the DCC system. Most of us do some kind of mix and match.

Reading and learning about DCC for the first time can get intense. Most books try to cram everything they can into letting you know what DCC is all about. You may want to try this link for some very basic DCC information given in non technical terms. This focuses more about the layout than the locomotives.

http://www.waynes-trains.com/site/dcc/basics.html

Elmer.

The above is my opinion, from an active and experienced Model Railroader in N scale and HO since 1961.

(Modeling Freelance, Eastern US, HO scale, in 1962, with NCE DCC for locomotive control and a stand alone LocoNet for block detection and signals.) http://waynes-trains.com/ at home, and N scale at the Club.

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Posted by ba&prr on Wednesday, March 6, 2013 9:48 AM

 My current layout is a small L shaped switching layout. When I converted it to DCC all I did was add several more track feeders. I have a reverse loop at one end. I hooked up an auto reverser to it and this handles reversing the track automatically. I started out with a tethered throttle and added a wireless throttle later. I use Digitrax so all I had to do was buy a UR91 face plae and a UT4R throttle. I like having wireless.   Joe

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Posted by 88gta350 on Wednesday, March 6, 2013 2:45 PM

I appreciate everyone taking the time to explain things to this noob.  I'll read over all the links that have been posted as I get time.  I guess the best thing for me to do would be buy a system and get started.  I like to think I'm a quick learner at most things, but I'm also a guy who has to do it himself to really get it.  So once I get a system and start playing with it I should pick it up quickly.

Dave M
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Posted by MisterBeasley on Wednesday, March 6, 2013 4:01 PM

cowman
I understand that the wiring is simpler and a special part is needed if I want a reverse loop.

You can buy an auto-reverse unit for a loop, but you don't have to.  You can implement it with a simple DPDT toggle if you wish, but then, you've got to flip the switch yourself.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

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Posted by ba&prr on Wednesday, March 6, 2013 4:43 PM

One other thing; what ever system you get, Google a Yahoo group for it IE I use Digitrax and there is a Yahoo group Digitrax users. These are good places to get info or ask about problems . Joe

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Posted by locoi1sa on Wednesday, March 6, 2013 7:14 PM

I can't believe no one has posted these links!!!! These are required reading for newcomers into the world of DCC.

http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/nswmn2/DCC.htm

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/intro2dcc.htm

There are many many more but these 2 will get you started in no time.

          Pete

omhttp://www.wiringfordcc.com/intro2dcc.htm

 I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!

 I started with nothing and still have most of it left!

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Posted by UPinCT on Wednesday, March 6, 2013 7:17 PM

Dave,

You've had good advice so far.  You sound like the same spot I was in the hobby a couple of years ago.  I was away from the hobby as DCC was developed so when I came back I was clueless.  Further I was always drawn to the modeling side of things, so wiring was always a chore and something I wasn't really good at.  I jumped in though and made the switch.  Now I've bought in to DCC in a big way and run and program with JMRI and Decoder Pro.  I am of an age where even with a 4 year degree I never had or needed a computer class.  Computers where these big rack sized things that you communicated with teletype machines.  Point being, if I can figure out DCC and JMRI you can do it too.

Come on in the DCC waters are fine.

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Posted by 88gta350 on Wednesday, March 6, 2013 7:36 PM

UPinCT

Dave,

You've had good advice so far.  You sound like the same spot I was in the hobby a couple of years ago.  I was away from the hobby as DCC was developed so when I came back I was clueless.  Further I was always drawn to the modeling side of things, so wiring was always a chore and something I wasn't really good at.  I jumped in though and made the switch.  Now I've bought in to DCC in a big way and run and program with JMRI and Decoder Pro.  I am of an age where even with a 4 year degree I never had or needed a computer class.  Computers where these big rack sized things that you communicated with teletype machines.  Point being, if I can figure out DCC and JMRI you can do it too.

Come on in the DCC waters are fine.

Yes, that's exactly the position I'm in.  I've always enjoyed the modeling side of the hobby and less the operating side, and wiring/electrical has always been dumbfounding for me.  So it's always been the necessary evil part of the hobby for me.  I know DCC will ultimately be fine for me, and in a few years I'll wonder what I was so worried about.  It's just that getting started is a bit overwhelming with all the different terms, equipment, equations for capacitors and bulbs, amps, volts, and what not.

Dave M
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Posted by hon30critter on Wednesday, March 6, 2013 8:33 PM

Dave!

Dive in! You won't sink!!Laugh

I was exactly where you are a few years ago. Much of the gobbledygook in the manuals that cover all the aspects of DCC you might never need, and you certainly don't need to understand it all to get started. (It is not useless information - it just isn't needed at first).

I have found that DCC has been something that has come one or two steps at a time. I.E. "OK, I changed the address...lets see if I can adjust the sound volume (or whatever)...and then let's install a decoder...". The more you do, the easier it gets.

By the way, I vote for the NCE Power Cab. It is expandable and it is a breeze to operate, including doing stuff like adjusting CVs.

Dave

I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!

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Posted by Texas Zepher on Wednesday, March 6, 2013 10:35 PM

88gta350
I the electrical stuff is where I always lost interest.  My brain has never been able to wrap itself around all the wiring and electrical theory.

Sounds like you are making it harder than it really is.  Even a complicated DC block cab control wiring system doesn't require hardly any knowledge of electrical theory.    If you are in the "deep end" it is because you want to be, come on over to the shallow side.

On my new layout, just a 4x8 to practice getting back into the swing of things, I wanted to use DCC to try to simplify the wiring and because I'd use it on any future, larger layout and I want to get familiar with it.  I bought "Basic DCC Wiring for Your Model Railroad" by Mike Polsgrove but I was a bit overwhelmed with information and yet I don't feel I got enough detail on any individual section to understand it completely.

You don't need to understand it to use it.  Do you know how a television works or an escalator?  If not, does that prevent you from using them?  For a 4x8 layout.  Hook the two wires from the DCC system to the layout track and run the trains.  The only issue would be if you build it with a reversing section.  Since you don't like electrical situations,  I would suggest to simply avoid that situation from the git go, and not design a track that has any.

What resources are out there, short of buying more books, that can help a serious electrical beginner truly understand and work with DCC?

There is a big difference in understanding and using.  Your biggest friend for using a DCC system is going to be the users manual that comes with whatever system you decide to buy.

I'm looking for information on choosing a system, the differences between them

You won't find that in a book because by the time the book is published the information is out of date.   You can study the heck out of it and still have a hard time making a decision.   You can't go wrong with any of the major brands  CVP, Digitrax, Lenz, or NCE. I own them all.    I've also heard good things about Prodigy and Zimo.   My advice is go to a hobby store that carries them all and just look them over, get the hobby store people to let you play with them.  Choose the one that  "feels" right to you, especially the throttle.  Some people like push buttons, some like knobs, some like big displays, some like narrow, some like thin.... Some systems have a throttle in a box that sits on a table or in a control panel, others just the hand held unit.  What do you like?

the pieces I'll need, and the actual wiring itself, which is my biggest hurdle.

Once again seems like you are making it much harder than it really is.  You need the DCC system and its power supply.  Hook the power supply to the DCC controller, connect two wires from the DCC controller to the track,  Plug in the throttle (unless you get a wireless one), put a DCC equipped loco on the track,  Dial up channel #3, and have fun running the train.

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Posted by RideOnRoad on Thursday, March 7, 2013 8:46 AM

Edit:  Removed thread jack.

Richard

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Posted by tstage on Thursday, March 7, 2013 9:36 AM

Richard,

In order not to hijack the OP's thread, this would be better posted as a new thread altogether.

Tom

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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