I use 1/4" AC plywood painted a darkish green.
Nick
Take a Ride on the Reading with the: Reading Company Technical & Historical Society http://www.readingrailroad.org/
1/4" MDF for all straight and slight curved sections. 1/8" masonite for tighter bends.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Since my layout is basically a square (10X12) donut with a duck under, my fascia is 3/16" thick tempered masonite. I glue strips of 1x2" pine flush with the top of the masonite to give it strength and a nice surface for attaching scenery materials, i.e. plaster cloth, etc,
For this layout I decided to go with a flat and straight profile rather than cut the profile to follow undulating terrain. I have seen it done both ways and I like both, just figured I'd try it this way for a change. My fascia is 12" high, about 4" comes flush to the track and the other 8" drops below grade and covers the benchwork top and risers. My wife will be making me a box pleated curtain using a flat black fabric. I will hang it from velcro strip along the inside bottom edge of the fascia.
I'll post some photos next week.
I often use 4x8 wood paneling, cut into strips. Anything that compliments the theme or decor of the room will work. As mentioned masonite is a popular choice, although I've found it hard to drill and cut cleanly.
The facia board should never be the focal point of the railroad, it should always be subdued and do it's job in quiet dignity. Avoid bright colors or patterns, but it's OK to label the facia with town names if you want.
Whatever material you decide on, make sure it is strong enough to take an impact or three without damage, and thick enough to be able to attatch some control devices (plug in throttles or turnout controls for example). It must also be able to hold scenic elements without warping.
I've had a dream of building a facia board from wood laminate, much in the manner of a grand piano, gently curving around corners and strong as steel. But alas my woodworking skills are not that advanced.
The Dixie D Short Line "Lux Lucet In Tenebris Nihil Igitur Mors Est Ad Nos 2001"
I plan to use 1/8" tempered hardboard for my fascia, light valances and background boards. It's relatively inexpensive, approximately $7-8/ 4' x 8' sheet at my local Lowe's and it is easy to bend into relatively small radius curves if needed.
I plan to paint the fascia a dark brown-green color that will not stand out and detract from the train layout scene. I've seen articles where fascias are painted black for this reason. If you're trying to create a diorama-type scene you don't want bright colors on the fascia or light valance to detract from the scene.
Bob
Welcome to the forum. I used 1/8" Masonite and painted it with a spray can labeled Suade. I liked it.
What's the best method to attach the fascia board to the front of the benchwork? I've seen slightly countersunk screws that can be covered with filler, pan head screws, and screws with decorative washers similar to what ARTHILL used on his fascia board.
I used masonite and secured with screws that had a slightly oversize head. I will paint the entire facia dark brown or black along with the screws. I like to have the screws easy to get to just in case. Lowes also sells plastic edge pieces in joining, 90 degree, and adge styles. I painted mine black as they are white from the store.
see my www below for more.
John
I have used 1/8" masonite,, I like it, and it curves real well.
The following pics are from a layout that I worked on,,,, not my own. The owner is Jeff Brauer.
At one time it was called the Missourri Terminal,, but since the advent of the IHB loco's from Atlas in N scale,,,,might just be called the IHB now,LOL
The pictures really do not do the work I did justice. I am professional carpenter and welder,,,, so when it comes to do things like that, I take great pride in it.
I have heard of people using a form of PVC sheeting,,, that comes in a roll, that would work also.
Adios Wyatt
Hi Snoot1
I used lining boards as a fascia these are a tongue and groove wood board used for lining house walls like floor boards only thinner.
I liked the stackability of them allowing easy changes of height of fascia they also tied in with the style of house I was living in at the time.
I would use them again should the need arise.
I painted them in reptile grey acrylic house paint your fascia should be a colour that is in the context of your layout neutral so it looks neat and tidy but does not draw attention to its self.
regards John
RFinch wrote: What's the best method to attach the fascia board to the front of the benchwork? I've seen slightly countersunk screws that can be covered with filler, pan head screws, and screws with decorative washers similar to what ARTHILL used on his fascia board.Bob
I countersunk the screwheads flush with the fascia board, but didn't bother to putty them. After I painted the fascia, the screwheads virtually disappeared.
I prefer a dark brown for fascia board and the lighting valance. It gives a picture frame effect that really makes the layout stand out.
Jim
I made mine from left over Masonite house siding. I painted it black because black is beautiful. And it doesn't detract from the layout. See below:
Modeling the Baltimore waterfront in HO scale
jaabat wrote: I made mine from left over Masonite house siding. I painted it black because black is beautiful.And it doesn't detract from the layout. See below: Jim
I made mine from left over Masonite house siding. I painted it black because black is beautiful.And it doesn't detract from the layout. See below:
I noticed more than your fascia board here. You have a beautiful family, mine is very close only my boys are 20 and 22. And my daughter is also the oldest at 24. I'd bet your kids have a similar age difference. I also like the fact that you are running Thomas next to that SF passenger train - it looks like everyone is enjoying the layout and trains - that's what it is all about!
Actually, the boys look like they're twins. And oh yeah, I'm making my fascia with 1/8" thick masonite, held with flat head screws with metal grommets. They help keep the screws from either sinking through or pulling through.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
The boys are twins. They are 4 years old and my daughter is 6 years old. Believe it or not, the kids got me into the hobby. I bought them a Lionel set for Christmas 2 years ago, just to have something to do together inside during the long New England winter. Needless to say, we are all now hooked! The boys have started running HO trains, and want to build an HO layout next. Who am I to argue?! What a great hobby. I've met untold number of nice people in the short time we've been involved.
I use 1/8" Masonite hardboard for both fascia and backdrop. It cuts easily, beds well, takes paint great. I wouldn't use anything else personally.
Ron
Owner and superintendant of the N scale Texas Colorado & Western Railway, a protolanced representaion of the BNSF from Fort Worth, TX through Wichita Falls TX and into Colorado.
Check out the TC&WRy on at https://www.facebook.com/TCWRy
Check out my MRR How-To YouTube channel at https://www.youtube.com/c/RonsTrainsNThings