I have a few ideas but how to you folks do it? Bench is what I think they call a cookie cutter bench. It will use I think what is called a Riser to lift the bench off the level grade. If you look at the posting I made about K-10 Mining bench standiny you will know what I am wanting to do.
lost again Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
I don't think I've ever seen anyone make a template for grades. I would simply use clamps to temporarily hold your risers at the desired height to produce a smooth grade and then measure the grade to make sure you are not too steep in any given spot.
You'll want to check for any short sections of a grade that is too steep. I recommend getting a short level somewhere around six inches long. Knowing that grade is rise over run, then if your maximum grade is 2% and your level is six inches long, then you'll need a 1/8" shim to put at one end of the level to "level out" the level on the grade. (0.02 * 6 = 0.12) If you set this shim and level on your roadbed with the shim on the downgrade end of the level, if the bubble is in the middle, you have exactly a 2% grade. If the bubble is towards the upgrade side, your grade is greater than 2% and likewise, if the bubble is towards the downgrade side, your grade is less than 2%.
Ken,
What I'm doing is using a string between two locations to get an accurate grade.
I measure a 100" length then mount a temporary piece of wood at each end (0" and 100"). I use a lazer level to get a straight line from 0" to 100" then use a measuring tape and make a mark 2" lower / higher. This gives me a 2% grade.
Then I put a screw at the 0" mark and one at the 100" mark. Pull a string between the two and follow the angle with my plywood using support beams every 16".
I'm building a layout with a staging level that is 21" lower than my upper level. I'm running two tracks around the entire layout (1050") to achieve a 2% grade. I have approximately 150" left to connect the two levels.
Bill
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
Ken, do you have a steel ruler? Take it firmly in hand, one hand on each end, and then displace one end downard an inch or so. Keep both ends parallel to the ground when you do this. See the shallow, long "S" that is made? That is what your grade should look like. It needs to transition from flat on the low part into the full grade and then transition out to level again...or your locos will give you big troubles trying to get up into the start of that grade. They'll get low-centred. If you know how far you need to climb to the next level, you can calculate how far you will have to run up to that level to keep the grade reasonable. So, if you can clamp or screw your cookie cutter segment to the lower level framing, and then flex the cookie upward, you'll get that transition. You know, naturally, that you should be using thin stuff like 1/4" MDF or luan or masonite for this segment so that you can flex it.
Once it is done, screwed at the top and bottom, you can place small wooden blocks every six inches or so so that they just snug up under the grade between the transitions to keep the grade constant. You don't want it curving like a real "S" on its side, you want the transitions at each end, but then straight between them.
Is this what you are looking for...how to get the grade using cookie-cutter and supports?
ericboone wrote: You'll want to check for any short sections of a grade that is too steep. I recommend getting a short level somewhere around six inches long.
I do basically the same thing but with a 2 ft level and a "stairs" made out of 1/8" material. 1/8" is a 1/2% grade, 1/4" is a 1% grade, 1/2" is a 2% grade, etc. Quick and dirty. And easy.
Dave H.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
Cookie cutter;
I like this method because it is so flexible. Changes are actually fairl easy and you can access most any spot under the layout. Also as mentioned preveously you need to keep the transitions gradual just like easements on curves. Keep the joints in spots where there are no changes/transitions to elevations and the stifness of the wood will help make all smoother.
If you look in the middle photo you will see one of my homemade grade tools. I made one 12-1/2 inches long with a 1/4 inch lip for a 2% grade. I made another twice that lenth and highth as it is easier to find the mistakes with the larger tool.
John
spidge wrote: Cookie cutter;I like this method because it is so flexible. Changes are actually fairl easy and you can access most any spot under the layout. Also as mentioned preveously you need to keep the transitions gradual just like easements on curves. Keep the joints in spots where there are no changes/transitions to elevations and the stifness of the wood will help make all smoother.If you look in the middle photo you will see one of my homemade grade tools. I made one 12-1/2 inches long with a 1/4 inch lip for a 2% grade. I made another twice that lenth and highth as it is easier to find the mistakes with the larger tool.
Very nice job on the benchwork. This is coming from a finish carpenter, if your not one you could be. What are you using for stock? Looks to clear pine or alder.
Have you considered radiusing those corners of the room?
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
What kind of wood,hum? Its from Lowes of coarse its top choice, as in I had to sort the entire pallet for straight peices. Its a bit soft but does not split too easily like some I accidently picked up. BTR COM ELSP in a small box is stamped on it.
I thought the coving in the corners would have been too much for me. If you hit my WWW at under my sig you will see a couple mountains there.
Thanks for the good words.