Having recently been a noob myself (and still a lot to learn!) I agree with TStage on sectional track for your curves. My rationale is twofold: 1. It's too easy to kink the joints and too easy to make your radii too tight. One of the biggest turnoffs for all of us are derailments' and it takes some skill and practice to do the flextrack right. 2. You're likely to redo your first layout 4-5 times, as you learn what works, what doesn't and what you really want. I find it frustrating to cut and solder flextrack, only to pull it up again. That being said, flextract is great for straights and for broad, sweeping curves (which don't really fit on a 4x8. Try to use 22" radius curves on your mainline, and 18" curves only on sidings. Don't even bother with the 15" curves - they are too tight.
You might consider the foam insulation board option. 1" blue or pink foam board glued to 5/8" plywood (or just laid on an available table) is a good start. Avoid the white beadboard, it's too flimsy. With a foam base, you can easily spike down your track, run trains, then pull up the track and try another configuration. Eventually you will want cork roadbed under your track, but until you figure out just what your layout configuration will be, you can just spike the track directly to the foam.
You might want to look at e-Bay for used Atlas track. There's tons of it out there and it can be purchased for a fraction of the price of new. You can often find people selling large lots of track, including turnouts. Get nickel silver track (not brass), and sitck with one track code (rail height). Code 83 track looks more realistic, but there's a lot more code 100 track out there, and you can get it really cheap!
Lastly, stick with short cars (40' or 50') and short locomotives. Streamlined passenger cars and 89' auto racks look great, but don't work well on a 4x8. Good luck, and have fun!
tstage wrote: NSlover92 wrote:But a steamer is pretty expennsive and buying while building a layout will be a hard thing to do money wise, well it is for me.Michael, It can be, but not if you know where to find the bargains. That $80 for the Proto 2000 0-8-0 that I mentioned earlier is a steal and probably one of the nicest running steamers you'll find on the market.
NSlover92 wrote:But a steamer is pretty expennsive and buying while building a layout will be a hard thing to do money wise, well it is for me.
Michael,
It can be, but not if you know where to find the bargains. That $80 for the Proto 2000 0-8-0 that I mentioned earlier is a steal and probably one of the nicest running steamers you'll find on the market.
I agree with both of you... sort of. I can pick up a (Spectrum) diesel for ~$160 (DC Only). A (Spectrum) Steamer is ~$250 (DCC w/ sound). I just grabbed random locomotives, so there is definitely a spread of prices for the locomotives - and I'm sort of comparing apples to oranges with the two different locomotives (DC vs DCC). However, if I found a DCC/Sound diesel, it would probably cost about as much as the steamer did.
My vote is that you should grab a steamer if you want one. Sure it might cause you to be (slightly) set back as far as track or cars or something else that you may have spend the money on, BUT you have a loco that you really wanted, not something you settled for.
-Dan
Builder of Bowser steam! Railimages Site
It can be, but not if you know where to find the bargains. That $80 for the Proto 2000 0-8-0 that I mentioned earlier is a steal and probably one of the nicest running (as well as looking) steamers you'll find on the market.
Early diesels look cool and everything, I have a EMD GP-35, Fairbanks and Morse H16-44, and EMD F3A.
Agreed. Early diesel is pretty cool. I have a few S1s, a VO-660, and an FT. The former is a Proto 2000. The latter are both Stewart locomotives. Each one of them runs very smoothly. The S1s can be picked up for as little as $29.99 from either Trainworld.com or M.B. Klein.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Welcom to the forums and to the hobby TZ!
Sidenote - He's going to be a bit tricky to differentiate from Texas Zephyr if we keep calling him TZ.
A word of caution to you about Tom (tstage) - if you aren't careful, he'll start slipping in pics of his own NYC equipment (along with comments about how amazingly smooth said engine is at slow speed), and drag you kicking and screaming into modelling the NYC. I know this from experience. I will admit however that I was on the fence between the PRR & NYC at the time..
However, he is, as (most) everyone else is a really great help for some information. Probably even moreso in the "just starting out" area, as he pretty much just started again in 2002(ish). Don't get discouraged if people tell you not to do something in a stand-offish manner - it's getting near spring (or at least I think so, never really can tell in Cleveland, OH) and many of the guys here are starting to get really bad cases of cabin fever. Most of the time they really do mean well, they just say it in a way that probably could have come out better.
Anyway, as for advice on starting the basement (or livingroom, bedroom, or whichever room) empire - start small! I'm in college, so my money prospects are probably as bad as, if not worse than, yours. What I've found (as others have stated already) is that going to trainshows is a great way to pick up new equipment. Ebay works too, but you have to know the value of the item in question and set a rigid limit on what you'll pay so you don't get caught up in a bidding war. Best way to get things I've found is to get 1, maybe 2 cars (in my case kits) every few months, with a new loco thrown in there when funds allow (ie loco in favor of 4-6 cars). You'll have that empire soon enough
tstage wrote:Midnight, My thought for TZ was to make his initial transition into MRRing a little less formidable for him. Since we don't know his abilities (or capabilities) yet, sectional curves are easier to put together and, more importantly, rearrange.I'm not saying that TZ can't nor shouldn't use flex-track on his layout. My point is, until TZ locks down his layout and track design first, using flex-track only makes things more complicated. TZ can still play around with it on the straight sections of his layout - bending it and curving it slightly to get a feel for it. Midnight, we shouldn't assume that everyone is on the same skill or patience level - even when just starting out. It would be a shame to give TZ so much to learn upfront that we either frustrate him or throw a bucket of water on his enthusiasm. That's not to say he can't learn nor doesn't have the capacity to learn. I'm just being conservative since I don't know where TZ's skills are at.Does that make sense? Tom
Midnight,
My thought for TZ was to make his initial transition into MRRing a little less formidable for him. Since we don't know his abilities (or capabilities) yet, sectional curves are easier to put together and, more importantly, rearrange.
I'm not saying that TZ can't nor shouldn't use flex-track on his layout. My point is, until TZ locks down his layout and track design first, using flex-track only makes things more complicated. TZ can still play around with it on the straight sections of his layout - bending it and curving it slightly to get a feel for it.
Midnight, we shouldn't assume that everyone is on the same skill or patience level - even when just starting out. It would be a shame to give TZ so much to learn upfront that we either frustrate him or throw a bucket of water on his enthusiasm. That's not to say he can't learn nor doesn't have the capacity to learn. I'm just being conservative since I don't know where TZ's skills are at.
Does that make sense?
Tom, you said it in a much nicer and gentler way than I could.
Joe
I hear ya'. I'm a avid kit builder and supporter (now enthusiastic kitbasher and scratch-builder) and only buy RTR if I only absolutely have to. To me, it's sad to see more and more RTR and less and less kits on the market.
With that said, however, I do understand that not everyone has the patience nor ability to put kits together and that RTR does have it's nitch and purpose in the MRRing market. It appears that that nitch is getting progressively larger, as time goes by.
tstage wrote: Does that make sense? Tom
tstage wrote:For now, and to make things less complicated, I would only use the flex-track for straight sections of your layout. Flex-track is great but can be challenging to lay down - especially on curves.
I'm sure he can learn to use it, too.
thomaszachary wrote:A few thing just came up. whould any nails work for nailing track down? AND MY PARENTS JUST BOUGHT SOME STUFF FOR EASTER!-30ft of flex trax-new Bachmann E-Z command controller which can host 10 trains-a 0-6-0 steam engine (Great Northern) and tender They are nice! This costed $202 with a catologe! Now, any suggestions
A few thing just came up. whould any nails work for nailing track down?
AND MY PARENTS JUST BOUGHT SOME STUFF FOR EASTER!
-30ft of flex trax
-new Bachmann E-Z command controller which can host 10 trains
-a 0-6-0 steam engine (Great Northern) and tender
They are nice! This costed $202 with a catologe!
Now, any suggestions
TZ,
For now, and to make things less complicated, I would only use the flex-track for straight sections of your layout. Flex-track is great but can be challenging to lay down - especially on curves.
Since you don't really have a track plan yet and everything is relatively new to you, it would be worth it to you to purchase some sectional curves - i.e. 18" or 22" radius - to use for your curve track. The curved sectional track will:
TZ, congratulations on getting the E-Z Command. I had one for a year and it worked great for me. It is a limited DCC system but it works well for what it does. You should be able to run at least 2, maybe 3 newer locomotives with it. If you have any questions about it, don't hesitate to ask away. There are a few of us here on the forum you either have one or used to have one. The E-Z Command is simple and easy to use.
FYI: Unless your 0-6-0 came with a decoder, you'll have to run it on address button 10. (That's the lone DC address button. Addresses 1-9 are your DCC addresses.) When you place your 0-6-0 on your track, if it is DC, it will emit a slight "squealing" sound. This is normal, as well as annoying. Until you get a decoder in it, you shouldn't leave your DC locomotives idle on the track for long periods of time while your E-Z Command is ON.
Again, TZ, congratulations on the new equipment. Do keep us posted on your progress and ask as many questions as you need to. That's why we're here...
Hi thomaszachary
Don't get track nails called track pins by Model Railroaders from a hobby shop ouch!! to expensive.
But go to the hardware store and get the smallest pannel pins the price difference is unbelievable.
you might need to get a tiny drill to open out the track nail holes BY HAND so a Pin drill would be handy as well by the time you have bought a pack of panel pins from the hardware store the tiny drill same size as pins and a pin drill you will still have spent less than you would have to in the hobby shop for track pins.
It was a pretty rude awakening when I worked that one out.
Be careful not to drive the nail fully home, it only needs to just hold the track in place and if driven to far will twist the track causing all sorts of problems
I hope you in the US use the same names for the nails and the tool mentioned.
0-6-0 steamer excellent this will turn into the most versatile locomotive on the layout in a few years time others will come and go but that 0-6-0 will still be there
regards John
Hi thomaszachery
My first locomotive 43 years ago was an 0-4-0 steam switcher over the years my locos have changed worn out etc.
But the one constant on the layout is there has always been an 0-4-0 steam switcher
It can be used for switching the yard short haul freight and branch line passenger work, so is very versatile.
The other thing is being a small loco it is less expensive making it easier to find the little bit extra to buy a good quality one with your locomotive purchases always get good quality ones with service back up for them.
Do not skimp on track or locomotive quality apart from the table work this is where your reliabiliaty come from.
Welcome, Thomas Zachary! The great people in this hobby, and particularly those in the forum, have given you some sound advice - but advice that may take some time to digest and think through.
I'm going to keep this short, but I did want to add one little thing. Planning and working on your layout will cause you to begin seeing things in a new and wonderful way. Looking at a picture of scenery, or factories, or railroad yards is one thing. But when you're looking at the pictures and thinking about how you could build a model of it, you'll begin to see and appreciate details that just slipped by before. And that's part of the fun of this wonderful hobby!
Bill
Thomas,
Crandell has mentioned to you two excellent steamers. I have the Trix 2-8-2 Mikado and it runs just beautifully.
Click to enlarge picture
One of the guys who belongs to my MRR club owns one of the Bachmann Spectrum 2-8-0s and it is a particularly sweet little runner. You can't go wrong with either one.
Let me give you one more. For about the price of the Spectrum 2-8-0 at discount, you can also pick up a deeply discounted Proto 2000 0-8-0 (DC) switcher for as little as $90:
The detailing is just beautiful and it crawls like you won't believe. (These originally went for $250.) I actually picked up the one pictured above for $80 recently.
Every layout needs a switcher to move cars. If you want a really good one, the Proto 2000 0-8-0s are a terrific bargain*.
*Thomas, if you are interested in the Proto 2000 0-8-0s, make sure that they are the newer 2nd run versions. The 2nd run will contain the following in the description to differentiate them from the older first runs:
The extra pick-ups mean that the locomotive won't stall over turnouts (switches). Short wheel bases tend to do that more often.
Also, Walthers owns Proto now. They were selling the 0-8-0s for deep discount but they are completely out of them and probably won't be restocking them soon, if at all. As I mentioned earlier, I actually found mine on eBay. Hope that helps...
An excellent first steamer is the Bachmann Spectrum line 2-8-0 Consolidation...they have several configurations to match different railroads' demands from the manufacturer at the time.
Trainworld.com out of New York has them on for a song, or they did a few months back. Phone them and see. google the name and you will find their phone number on their site. Just remember to ask for an HO model. If you would like a truly great first steamer, and can afford the $225 plus shipping, check out the Tony's Train Exchange Trix Mikado 2-8-2...a real steal for an engine that has a suggested retail price over twice that amount. They should be able to line you up with one still, even though the sale was announced over a year ago. I got one for Christmas, and they told me that there were still lots to be had at that price.
Thanks everyong for the tips. I know a couple of people want to know my age. 14. Also, what is the best train engine you guys like? I want a steamer but i can never find any for ho layouts.
Again,
Thanks
Hello and welcome Thomas Zachary.
El-Capitan and a few others I think have the right idea for someone just starting out. Everyone here has given you a lot of good advice but since this is your first layout you shouldn't complicate it with a lot of extras.
Atlas does have several easy beginner layouts that fit on a 4X8 table and are very good starter layouts.
The one thing I would do is purchase your main items separately. The track, an engine and a few cars, and a power pack. Purchasing them separately you will be able to get what you want and the quality will be better than the items you get in all in one sets like the ones that Life Like and Bachmann sell.
An Idea of costs:
Table approximately $40.
Engine $50 (I just bought a new Proto 2000 GP30 on ebay for $46 including shipping)
Cars $10-15 each (4 cars $40-$60)
Power Pack $48 (Tech 4 200) Internet hobbies
Atlas Layout #10001 $75.
Roadbed for layout approximately $15.
For around $300 you can get a layout started.
This thread is becoming way too complex. Let's go back to basics.
1. get a table
2. set up a circle of track
3. run trains
After you've been doing this for a while you will find you want more but let's take it one step at a time.
Check out the Deming Sub by clicking on the pics:
I'm going to take a different approach than Joe above. I wouldn't bother with a pre-packaged train set. Yea, you get the everything you need in one set. However, a lot of times the quality of the sets is mediocre, at best. Even with that said, Joe's two set examples are decent ones.
I would first figure out what you'd like to model: steam or diesel or both? If diesel, do you want older locomotives (1940-1970) or more modern ones (1970 - present)? If you aren't sure, go to your local library and get a train book out that will show you a number of examples of locomotives. Once you have that figured out, we can then make some suggestions for some inexpensive but GOOD locomotives for you. I know where you can get some real deals on quality locomotives for $30-$40.
For track, you can get sectional track fairly inexpensively. I personally like the Atlas Code 83. But the Code 100 is slightly heavier and works quite well. You'll want 18" or 22" radius curves, if you plan on going with a 4 x 8 piece of plywood. I'd get at least one turnout (switch) so that you can pull your train off the mainline or for parking/storing additional cars. You then have a choice of going manual or electric with your turnouts.
For power, you'll have a choice of running your layout either DC or DCC. For just starting out, DC works quite well. Make sure that you spend the $$$ for a good power pack. MRC makes the best. I picked up one of their Railpower 1370 power packs off eBay for ~$20 or so. That's about 1/2 what you can buy it for at your local hobby store (LHS). DCC is another option but I'd advice you to do your homework first before purchasing a system. Besides, you'll probably only be running one locomotive at a time anyhow.
The 4 x 8 sheet of plywood is probably the most popular size to start out with and is easily obtainable from your local Lowes or Home Depot.
Anyhow, Thomas, that's a start for you. Let us know what you are thinking about and we can guide you from here.
Hope that helps...
Welcome Thomas Zachary,
I bet your Mom's eyes popped out when she heard the $$$ .
I recommend you start out like I did, and perhaps many others on this board about 50 years ago.
1 - Buy a ready to run set with track, train and power supply included. About $100 bucks.
2 - Build a prarie scene, flat, on a piece of plywood 4 X 6 or 4 X 8 Put your circle of track on it and paint the board green to make it look like grass and a couple of black roads on it.
3 - You can then expand from there as you learn.
With this plan, you are going to spend less than $150 bucks and have a train that works and you can run. If you have a little more money available, do this instead, you'll be way happier!
Steam - Bachmann Explorer New York Central Set HO $230
Or
Diesel - Bachmann Digital Commander Deluxe Set HO $175
Nice thing about these is they have DCC included and the quality of the Steam choice is Spectrum and those are product I run on my layout.
And stay with sectional track, not flex until you get your skills up to where you are read to start cutting and fitting track. Most of us used sectional track when we started too.
Let us know what you choose.
Joe Daddy
thomaszachary wrote:Hi all! I am thinking about starting a layout that would cover a 4x8 area. I have some questions my mother wanted me to ask before i start (always does that). 1) About how much would this cost for track for a HO guage layout?2) What is the easiest setting for a begginer? (dessert, hilly, mountainy, snowy, or towny)3) What are some tips for starting? So, as i said before, im a noob. Please awnser some or one of the questions. And i might have more questions latter. Thanks for Reading
Hi all!
I am thinking about starting a layout that would cover a 4x8 area. I have some questions my mother wanted me to ask before i start (always does that).
1) About how much would this cost for track for a HO guage layout?
2) What is the easiest setting for a begginer? (dessert, hilly, mountainy, snowy, or towny)
3) What are some tips for starting?
So, as i said before, im a noob. Please awnser some or one of the questions. And i might have more questions latter.
Thanks for Reading
Hi Noob, and welcome to the most fun you will ever have (from a hobby ).
I'm going to throw out a different suggestion from the others. Everything they have told you is good advice, and you should most definitely read everything you can get your hands on.
That being said, I recommend that you seek out a local club and join in the fun. This has several immediate benefits:
1. You get to work with stuff you will not be able to afford for a while, such as really good engines, control systems, etc. Many posters recommended you go to DCC immediately. If you are not sure what this is, just understand that using DC power causes you to "drive the layout". DCC allows you to "drive the train". You'll understand this soon. It's a lot more money than just using a powerpack, and requires a learning curve that is steep, unless you have the "big boys" to teach you.
2. You immediately acquire a group of experts as your mentors. It is in their interest that you learn how to do things correctly, as they most likely have 10's or 100's of thousands of $$$ invested.
3. You will learn all the skills you need at little or no cost to you (big selling point for Mom).
4. In the course of working with the club, you will be able to determine what era, railroad, and geographical location most interests you for your own personal layout.
5. Most importantly, when it comes time to build your own layout, you will have a group of friends who share your interest and will be happy to come over and help with your project. Many club members will be younger and will not have as understanding a Mom as you (no possibility of a home layout). I guarantee they will want to bring their equipment over to run on your layout. Presto-an instant fleet of trains, at no cost to you. Some of them may even leave their trains at your house!
One thing you will find about our hobby is that each railroader finds a different niche. Since I'm a programmer (industrial automation), I'm naturally interested in computer control and animation. Some like to super detail engines and cars, some like scenery, and some like operations. Many like to build their structure, while others are perfectly happy with "ready to run" buildings. Each railroader's interests compliments the others, which is why groups form to model. Joining a club allows you to find out your "druthers". I depend on my friends to help me with scenery, and they come to me with computer questions. Very few of us are good at all the skills.
One other thing which hasn't been mentioned: there is a subset of the hobby which builds modules. These are a kind of mini layout which conforms to a standard size and configuration, which allows it to be connected to other modules to form very large layouts. This allows you to spend considerably less (modules are usually about 2 x 4 feet or so), yet do all the tasks required in a small space. Then you get together, connect them to one another, and you have a HUGE layout. At the end of the day (or night), you take your module and go home. I've seen modular layouts which could fill a gymnasium.
I hope this helps rather than confuses. One thing I have noticed: unlike TV and video games (which I love), this hobby will give you skills, both personal and practical, which will set you above your peers for the rest of your life.
Remember to have fun, that's what this is all about.
Jeff
To answer some of your questions:
Typical costs - everything included - for a simple 4x8 HO layout run from $500 to $1,000. A lot depends on what you already have, and how much you are willing to use a different approach to save money.
Easiest setting to begin with is the famous "Plywood Prarie" or the "Foam Flatlands". But with either method, as time and experience permit, you can expand in the vertical dimension with both track and scenery.
Starting tips, with a focus on minmimizing costs:
- a train set has everything to start in one box, usually at a reduced price. Problem is that you will want to change out, upgrade, or ditch nearly every component within a year. If you can nail down what you want first, you can save money over the long run by buying components instead of a train set.
An example: the power pack in most sets is junk, marginally adequate for powering the train in question. It probably doesn't provide very good slow speed control. But buying a better power pack costs $40+ (new), and if you are thinking of going DCC, you probably want to skip the better power pack and go directly to the DCC system. Also, if going DCC, you will probably want to buy a "DCC on board" locomotive rather than the loco that comes with a train set.
Train set track is another issue. Most train sets now come with track that has the roadbed as part of the track. The Bachmann and Lifelike track in particular have quality issues with their turnouts (switches), and are restricted by the fixed size pieces as to what the track arrangement can be. Atlas TrueTrack can be removed from the roadbed, and then becomes the same as Atlas Snap Track. Kato track is considered to be very high quality, but is expensive, and still has limited track arrangements compared to flex track. The issue with flex track is that you have to be able to solder to use it effectively. Do you have a 40 watt iron, solder, and flux? Do you know how to use it? My suggestion to noobies with no soldering experience is to use Snap Track for the curves, and try flex track on the straight sections and on sidings and spurs until they feel comfortable with their ability to trim rail and solder feeders and track joints (on curves). Soldering is a skill that is hard to do completely without.
- the earlier you settle on a theme for your layout, the more you can focus your purchases, and ignore all the "good stuff" that doesn't really fit in with your theme.
- Building kits instead of buying RTR has several advantages. You learn new skills (and buy more tools and supplies). Because kits take time to build, detail, and sometimes paint, your purchases get spread over time. It takes a lot longer to fill up your layout. And you have the pride of being able to say, "I made that."
- use Atlas/Model Power flex track, Atlas Custom-Line turnouts, and Caboose Industries ground throws. These track components offer the best bang for the buck. Not using switch machines saves on wiring, control panels, switch machines, and encourages walking around with your train.
- consider buying used DC power packs, if going the DC route. Scrounging lumber and/or foam can reduce costs as well. Used locomotives and track are a little more risky for a noob - I would shy away until you have more experience.
- Some decisions are going to have to be made fairly early on. You can change to another alternative later, but it will cost you to make the change. An example is whether to use plywood or foam, what kind of track to use, whether to use DC or DCC, and what kind of layout (4x, around-the-walls, shelf).
The plywood or foam question really is best answered by what tools you already have or are able to use. If you have a jig saw, cross-cut saw or circular saw (or radial arm saw), drill, drill bits, etc., and are comfortable working with wood, there is no good reason not to use traditional plywood on frame construction. On the other hand, if you need portability, and/or don't have access to the tools or wood-working skills, foam might be the better answer. Get the lumber yard to cut the wood for the frame for you, and cut the foam yourself. Warning: foam can be difficult to find and is expensive in the Southwest.
Seriously consider the alternative to a 4x8, especially if you are interested in operating models of modern trains or scale length passenger cars. Modern locomotives, long freight cars, and 80ft passenger cars don't work all that well with the 18" radius curves that a 4x8 pretty much forces you into. Take a look at http://www.layoutdesignservice.com/lds/samples/betterbeginnerlayout.htm as great alternative for modeling modern railroading as compared to a 4x8.
If you don't already have any, tools are an important upfront expense. The good thing about tools is decent ones last a long, long time if you take care of them, and keep them stored properly when not in use. You will need to convince your mom that tools are really an investment in your future - both to own and knowing how to use.
- tools to begin with: NMRA gauge, Kadee coupler height gauge, good needle nose pliers, rail nippers, jeweler's screwdriver set, caulking gun (for gluing track and roadbed), set of needle files, 10" flat file, 4-6" flat file, set of X-Acto knives. Also soldering equipment as described earlier, various glues and adhesives, fine and very fine sandpaper, Labelle plastic-compatible oil (can substitute transmission fluid) and gear grease, cotton swabs, paper towels, 90% alcohol.
This should give you some ideas.
yours in training
Fred W
thomaszachary wrote: Hi all! I am thinking about starting a layout that would cover a 4x8 area. I have some questions my mother wanted me to ask before i start (always does that). 1) About how much would this cost for track for a HO guage layout?2) What is the easiest setting for a begginer? (dessert, hilly, mountainy, snowy, or towny)3) What are some tips for starting? So, as i said before, im a noob. Please awnser some or one of the questions. And i might have more questions latter. Thanks for Reading
Response 2... (sorry had to take the Mickey out of another RR man - this is one of the rules of the game -- but start slow and gentle--- when you've earnt some stripes...)
Hi to you to Thomas Zachary! As before... [RATS! Smilies have gone off line :-( ] WELCOME!
Thinking is good but make sure you take plenty of rest and don't let just anyoneone know that you're doing it. A lot of people don't understand/appreciate the activity.
8x4 ... I'm English in the UK so I HATE 8x4 but a lot of your compatriots love it. Personally I'd rather walk across the 8x4 space inside a round-the-walls layout than all the way round the outside... You also get a bigger area and a longer possible track run round the outside. Just tell Mum that it will be more out of the way up against the walls. (Ask questions here about how to get past the door...)
Hey! listen to your Mum! :-)
Tell her you've spent some really good $ by spending time on this forum :-)
Beyond that... NASA has a small budget compared to what you could spend - Um, better not tell her that...
Just how old are you? ... go on, make us old'uns jealous... There's some pretty good young'uns here too (Don't tell them I said that).
Bit of advice from an old'un to a young'un... got it from my Warrant Officers in the Army... Look and Listen a lot and don't say too much until you have some idea what you're talking about... BUT the only stupid question is the question you don't ask that you need to ask.
Also... It's more stupid to not ask than to be afraid to ask... and more stupid than that is to be too proud to ask.
Every one of us here started out not having a clue.
So, any of us starting have a $ to pay in humility... not a bad thing.
$$$ for the hobby? Potentially returned 1,000s fold by a life long interest, skills learned, frends made and loads more that would take a whole page.
PLUS... many of our wives say it keeps us in the basement where they know where we are...
Easiest thing for a beginner?
Doesn't exist. You gotta jump in and swim. Start with my advice above on reading and looking at pics... work out what you want to do... it may take time - to afford, to learn how to do tc... but why start with "easy" and have to re-do it later?
Um, You will re-do... almost everything over the years... if you choose to stick with the interest you will probably build several layouts over many years... developing your skills and knowledge - and friendships - along the way.
BUT, if you really want easy... go wth "plywood prairie"... you've got to start on a blank sheet anyway... worry about scenery once you've got the trains rolling.
Tips for starting?
nbrodar wrote: I'll probably get howls of protest...but check out Atlas's plan books. The layouts range from simple to horrifically complex. I started with an Atlas plan and a sheet of plywood 20 years ago, and haven't looked back.Nick
I'll probably get howls of protest...but check out Atlas's plan books. The layouts range from simple to horrifically complex. I started with an Atlas plan and a sheet of plywood 20 years ago, and haven't looked back.
Nick
That's where Conrail got there trackplans!
Sorry Nick! Couldn't resist that.
Hi Noob!
Say "Hi" to your Mum too.
You should get her talking to Gearjammer and the other ladies here.
Just to get a different howl of protest... any chance of your getting a round-the-walls layout round the outside of that 8x4 where you would walk around it... I'm totally biased but I think that this is the better option for long term interest.
Hope I don't put you off with the next... read,read,read,read,read,read and then read a bit more. At the same time look at pics, look at pics, look at pics, look at pics, but then look at pics, look at pics, look at pics, The difference is in learning to really see what is in the pics: this is the one thingabout MRR that will really serve you in life... the skill of observing and understanding... may sound a bit heavy but - - - well, to keep it unheavy, use it as a trading point to encourage your Mum to keep up her support of your interest (get in quick before you spill glue on the carpet )
I don't think that anyone has asked you to think about what RR, when and where yet... these are things that will happen. You can change your mind (Don't tell Mum but, now that women have equality... we are allowed to change our minds as often as they do... with their permission of course )
If you have some modelling skillsalready and the $$$ I would say go to flextrack with matching switches. Peco are not cheap but good, robust and simple.
You're young so you probably understand computer stuff... if you can go straight to DCC. More$ but - if you can - you might as well start where technology is rather than play catch-up later. (Just turn the sound down/off and don't drive everyone else nuts with it...
and...
Have fun
Just want to add, welcome aboard! You'll find that this forum will provide support and answers to your questions. All of the above has been excellent advice. Good Lick.
Hal
Welcome aboard.
All excellent advice, so far. I would add one thing that sums up what you need to think about:
Make Haste Slowly! Yes, that sounds like a contradiction, but you are on the low end of a very steep learning curve. The temptation is to jump quickly into a burst of construction. Resist it.
The one illustrated track plan is a point you should think about reaching in stages, not in a single bound. A simple loop and four track switches will give you a fine start. More switches can be added as need develops and finances allow. Track cost is a variable, but flea markets and even yard sales sometimes have bargains. Just be careful about what you buy. Avoid anything with brass rail - it will cause problems with electrical pickup later.
Scenery can be whatever you like. If you decide on a town, you can make buildings out of cardboard, then replace them with better ones as your skills and finances permit. (Cereal boxes are cheap!) Rural scenes will call for paint, fake trees (one furnace filter and some shish-kebob skewers will make a bunch) and other 'out-of-town' things.
Above all, don't let the beautiful model railroads in the magazines scare you. All of them were built by people who started where you are now.
Finally, always remember, the only dumb question is the one that should have been asked, but wasn't. If something puzzles you, ask about it.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)