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SECURING TRACK TO ROADBED: HELP NEEDED

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  • Member since
    April 2003
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SECURING TRACK TO ROADBED: HELP NEEDED
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 17, 2003 3:19 PM
I need help--and fast. I've assemble a simple layout platform, comprised of several tables (with metal folding legs) upon which one-half-inch thick extruded polystyrene sheets were placed. I used KATO track, H. O. scale. I was running a passenger train the other night and noticed that the outer mainline had shifted, causing the train to derail. Does anyone have a suggestion as to whether an adhesive on the underside of the track to secure it to the styrene sub-roadbed is the answer, or am I just asking for trouble in the future? I'm new at this though I've always loved model trains. My skills/technique are limited--any ideas?
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 17, 2003 3:45 PM
you can use actual track nails to secure the track through the roadbed to the actual underlay (hopefully it's plywood or wood of some sort) or you can use liquid nail (a glue like substance) to secure the track to the roadbed. there are a few other ways of doing it, but those 2 should work for you. if you use the liquid nails approach, make sure the roadbed is equally secured to the under layment.

Jay
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    April 2003
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 17, 2003 4:54 PM
I used to use track nails until I found a wonderful substance called POWER GRAB by the Loctite Corp. This stuff will hold tighter than a Scotsman to a dollar. I got it in the local home improvement store. Try it out.
  • Member since
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  • From: Guelph, Ont.
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Posted by BR60103 on Monday, November 17, 2003 11:27 PM
If you want to be able to remove and change the track, use a less permanent glue. I've just done some with Tacky Glue, and I was thinking of using carpenters glue. Just make sure the glue won't attack the plastics.
You could make temporary holds with straight pins at the side of the track.

--David

  • Member since
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  • From: US
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Posted by Sperandeo on Wednesday, November 19, 2003 10:59 AM
I just posted on this in response to another question, but I'll say it again: See "Quick and easy flextrack" in our August issue, page 76, on laying track with DAP clear adhesive caulk. It's fast, reliable, requires no pins or nails, and makes it easy to remove track for changes.

Good luck,

Andy

Andy Sperandeo MODEL RAILROADER Magazine

  • Member since
    October 2003
  • From: Southwest US
  • 438 posts
Posted by Bikerdad on Wednesday, November 19, 2003 5:34 PM
Since you're using KATO track, I'd suggest double sided carpet tape. Non destructive, easy to lay, easy to remove, sticks good, doesn't go bad.
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  • From: Pittsburgh, PA
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Posted by preceng on Friday, November 21, 2003 8:14 PM
I've used the the carpet tape.Works good. i also use small pieces of velcro (get it at craft stores, office max, etc) on areas I remove thrack sometimes (to replace bad turnouts).
Allan B.
  • Member since
    September 2002
  • From: Nova Scotia, Northumberland Shore
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Posted by der5997 on Friday, November 21, 2003 9:21 PM
Velcro has a noticable thickness. How would you suggest dealing with that when the subroad bed is polystyene foam, as is the case with this question?

"There are always alternatives, Captain" - Spock.

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  • From: Mishawaka, IN
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Posted by jjbmish on Friday, November 21, 2003 11:59 PM
I just got done laying some roadbed using the adhesive caulk method. I have to admit that I was a little suprised on how well it worked. I will be laying track using this method within the next couple of days. I will let you know how it goes.
John
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    April 2003
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, November 23, 2003 2:20 PM
I've used adhesive caulk, too. I've found it works better with code 83 flextrack than code 100, but a little weight while the track sets up seems to help.
Gary
  • Member since
    March 2001
  • From: Mishawaka, IN
  • 243 posts
Posted by jjbmish on Sunday, November 23, 2003 9:33 PM
Well the first track is down and it went real well. Had to tack some of the track in place, but it went good. The adhesive allows enough time to move the track around and adjust it as needed. The best part was no smashed fingers trying to hold the track nails.
John

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