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Trimming Walthers Curved #7.5 Turnouts

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  • Member since
    March 2005
  • 53 posts
Trimming Walthers Curved #7.5 Turnouts
Posted by collingswood_don on Friday, November 10, 2006 9:50 AM

How much can be carefully trimmed off of each end of the Walthers Shinohara DDC-Ready Curved #7.5 Turnouts while keeping the turnout stable and reliable? 

I won’t be soldering rail joiners to the ends.  So, I won’t be running the risk of damaging any ties as a result of soldering.

The other day, I read another post reporting that the radius of routing leg of the #7 turnout is actually smaller than specified by the manufacturer.  This has ruined my standard of a minimum radius of 24".  So, I need to try use the #7.5 turnouts.  But, I can only make them work within my already built benchwork if I trim them down significantly.

Here is my guess as to how much can be safely trimmed:

     1/2" -- point end; and
     2-3"(?) -- normal and routing ends.

I would much appreciate any help in refining this or setting me straight.

Don

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
  • 23,330 posts
Posted by selector on Friday, November 10, 2006 12:32 PM

What I did was to cut the ties between the diverging and through route, and I also cut small sections (about 1/16") out of the webbing between the ties that lies directly under the rails.  I even cut the two metal jumper bars.  I cut enough of the plastic out from the ties between the two routes that I was then able to force the diverging (inside) route ouward, toward the through route, to make a substantially longer radius.

You will have to look over the underside of your turnout and consider what I have described.  You will have to lay the single approach track to the frog in alignment with the single track that mates to the turnout to keep your original radius.  I was happy with the outer radius, just not the inner.  So, I had to make no other changes than to widen the inner as I described, which netted just over 29" for the inner radius.

You will have to use well-placed track nails here and there to keep the inner curve where you want it, but....so what?

As for trimming them down, if you nean shortening each track end by as much as an inch, I don't see why not.  Many modelers modify commercial turnouts that way.  Just make sure to leave enough rail to safely use the joiners.  Also, you will have to closely match the curvature to the frog with the rail you lay so that you don't build in derailment territory.

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