I'm building a small 4x6 HO layout Thomas for a kid. I'm trying to keep it light, but strong enough. Trying to do it on the cheap I bought Culled lumber 2x4 x 1/4" ply to make the 4x6' top. That will be covered with 1" Foam. The frame will have the outside frame of 4x6' and (2) cross braces at the joint 4' across. At first I picked up 1x4" pine the straightes least knots I could find. Again I got some as culled or miscut lumber at only $1 each. Then after I bought that I found some nice 1x3". Question should I go with the 1x3 for portability and weight or use the 1x4" or doesn't it really matter. Thanks Dave
BTW my layout is a shelf layout in "N" 2' wide so I built that for lightweight with 1x3" s. 4x6 is huge in my world :)
I'd go ahead and use the 1x4 for the outer portion of the frame, use the 1x3 for the inner and middle pieces. Gives it just a bit of extra strength.
Brad
EMD - Every Model Different
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Jetrock wrote:Actually 1x2 will also work fine. Use 1-1/2" drywall screws and build a box around the edge of the 4x6 plywood, plus one or two lengths in the middle for a touch of added strength. Use a lot of "Liquid Nails for Projects" to bond the Styrofoam to the plywood--heck, the Styrofoam/plywood is probably plenty strong, and adding wood just provides a bit of stiffness and some elevation so your under-layout wiring doesn't rub against the tabletop. Using 1x3 will certainly be fine if you already have it, the extra strength isn't really necessary though. Many model railroaders build benchwork like they're building a house.
Agreed. No need to build a beefy work bench. Just do a clean job of cutting and mating surfaces, and use wood glue plus a few strategically placed screws. Between your decking and the 1X3 (I suppose 1X2 would be okay, although it wouldn't leave you with much usable framing for wires and attaching legs below the deck IMO), and building strong legs or brackets to the walls, you should have a sturdy bench.