Steam locomotive recommendations

[bogp40]

Take care when operating rubber tired engines, though they have greater pulling power/ weight abusive periodic slippage can thow a tire many times twisted or jambed in the rods. My preference next to brass steam is Broadway Limited, P2K Heritage, Athearn Genesis. I have a few IHC premeire that run quite well. Not a fan of Riverossi Overpriced for the quality and performance never had mach luck w/ Bachman spectrum seems like their quality control is all over the place. Many people have them and are very satisfied. Go figure. Personal preferance and satisfaction that's all that counts.
Bob

[bogp40]

Take care when operating rubber tired engines, though they have greater pulling power/ weight abusive periodic slippage can thow a tire many times twisted or jambed in the rods. My preference next to brass steam is Broadway Limited, P2K Heritage, Athearn Genesis. I have a few IHC premeire that run quite well. Not a fan of Riverossi Overpriced for the quality and performance never had mach luck w/ Bachman spectrum seems like their quality control is all over the place. Many people have them and are very satisfied. Go figure. Personal preferance and satisfaction that's all that counts.
Bob

[Anonymous]

If you really love steam, then go for older PFM brass steamers, even with the older motor, I have had ones that ran quieter and slower than the newer can motors. There shays are much better than the bachmans with a couple of tweakings. Nothing to hard. The drive systems in these older locomotives are much more robust than the newer ones. I had a bachman shay and thought it was quite delicate compared to my PFM shays. Shays are fun, they love tight track, most track well on badly laid track. Lets us all know what you decide to buy. Good Luck Mike

[Anonymous]

If you really love steam, then go for older PFM brass steamers, even with the older motor, I have had ones that ran quieter and slower than the newer can motors. There shays are much better than the bachmans with a couple of tweakings. Nothing to hard. The drive systems in these older locomotives are much more robust than the newer ones. I had a bachman shay and thought it was quite delicate compared to my PFM shays. Shays are fun, they love tight track, most track well on badly laid track. Lets us all know what you decide to buy. Good Luck Mike

[Anonymous]

I'm just a beginer and reading your comments was great.I love steam and look foreward to getting more ideas from you pro's
thanks ken.

[Anonymous]

I'm just a beginer and reading your comments was great.I love steam and look foreward to getting more ideas from you pro's
thanks ken.

[Anonymous]

Broadway limited makes very very good Loco's, a bit pricey as they're now equiping them with sound now. http://www.broadway-limited.com/

Jay

[Anonymous]

Broadway limited makes very very good Loco's, a bit pricey as they're now equiping them with sound now. http://www.broadway-limited.com/

Jay

[Anonymous]

Watch out with Athearns Mikes and Pac.4-6-2 I've had two mikes First one the drives where not seated right so every time it went into a curve she would lift right off the tracks.Send it to Athearn who then told me I had voided the warranty because tha command control I was using did not fit their plug so I had to remove it,there by voiding my warranty. The second Mike last about 3 weeks before the main drive gears broke in half, their 4-6-2 pulls a hole 2 passenger cars on a2% grade.
Like Bachmann's steamers Spectums are really nice have a 2-8-0(the best),2,4-8-2s and one 2-10-0(not alot of pull on this one)Also Proto 2000 are nice the 2-8-8-2and the 0-6-0 run like a fine watch.Their 0-8-0 needs pickups in the tender stalls on #6 switchs.

[Anonymous]

Watch out with Athearns Mikes and Pac.4-6-2 I've had two mikes First one the drives where not seated right so every time it went into a curve she would lift right off the tracks.Send it to Athearn who then told me I had voided the warranty because tha command control I was using did not fit their plug so I had to remove it,there by voiding my warranty. The second Mike last about 3 weeks before the main drive gears broke in half, their 4-6-2 pulls a hole 2 passenger cars on a2% grade.
Like Bachmann's steamers Spectums are really nice have a 2-8-0(the best),2,4-8-2s and one 2-10-0(not alot of pull on this one)Also Proto 2000 are nice the 2-8-8-2and the 0-6-0 run like a fine watch.Their 0-8-0 needs pickups in the tender stalls on #6 switchs.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by CHESTER1090

Roco and Fleischmann make pretty nice steamers, you can pick up new and slightly used ones at a reasonable price, though they are not US prototypes...

Agreed! You might also want to take a look at Hornby's more recent models, and at the Bachmann Blue Riband range - both are British prototypes but they look great and run pretty well

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by CHESTER1090

Roco and Fleischmann make pretty nice steamers, you can pick up new and slightly used ones at a reasonable price, though they are not US prototypes...

Agreed! You might also want to take a look at Hornby's more recent models, and at the Bachmann Blue Riband range - both are British prototypes but they look great and run pretty well

[Anonymous]

Roco and Fleischmann make pretty nice steamers, you can pick up new and slightly used ones at a reasonable price, though they are not US prototypes...

[Anonymous]

Roco and Fleischmann make pretty nice steamers, you can pick up new and slightly used ones at a reasonable price, though they are not US prototypes...

[Anonymous]

I wanted to add that organizing your roster by "Job" may make it easier on your railroad's motive needs. I use Covered Wagons (F3, E8's etc) deisals for the Passenger and Express runs while hood deseils such as the trainmasters get slow drags. The Mallets such as the Bachmann 2-6-6-2 will get turns. These are taking empties to mines and bringing down loads. And the Mountains will run manifest and bridge traffic.

And so on with Shays, Switchers etc etc. There are many ways you can use an Locomotive. This is also a time for excellent steamers never before seen in such quality aside from Brass.

Remember that a modeler also will have way too many engines for a given layout because of personal likes and desires (as well as funds and spouse tolerance)

Good Luck!

Lee

[Anonymous]

I wanted to add that organizing your roster by "Job" may make it easier on your railroad's motive needs. I use Covered Wagons (F3, E8's etc) deisals for the Passenger and Express runs while hood deseils such as the trainmasters get slow drags. The Mallets such as the Bachmann 2-6-6-2 will get turns. These are taking empties to mines and bringing down loads. And the Mountains will run manifest and bridge traffic.

And so on with Shays, Switchers etc etc. There are many ways you can use an Locomotive. This is also a time for excellent steamers never before seen in such quality aside from Brass.

Remember that a modeler also will have way too many engines for a given layout because of personal likes and desires (as well as funds and spouse tolerance)

Good Luck!

Lee

[Anonymous]

Lima makes some nice steam trains and rolling stock

thats all that needs to be said

[Anonymous]

Lima makes some nice steam trains and rolling stock

thats all that needs to be said

[Rene Luethi]

I have three old Rivarossi articulated engines. All are good pulling racehorses; they do not like slow speed. The three pole motors of them are driving worm shafts and the worm gears are sitting on a worm shaft again. The corresponding worm gears are on the axles of the main drivers. This is an intelligent Z-drive system but the transmission ratio is not too high, thus the inability of creeping along at low speed. On all of these engines, I have turned down the wheel flanges to NMRA RP-25 dimensions. In addition, on one of them I have replaced the three pole motor with a can motor with a skewed five-pole armature. This was a major alteration and may be the locomotive is a little bit slower at low speed now. On new Rivarossi engines, this modification is obsolete; they have a five-pole motor already.
I have purchased an Athearn genesis 2-8-2. The wheels were a bit tight, compared to the NMRA gauge. I put the engine on the track, and with the lowest possible setting of the power pack, this engine needed two second to creep from one tie to the next. With more power, the Mikado glided nearly soundless over the track. It was great! I coupled here to a short string of cars who where nearby in the yard. Slowly I opened the throttle. The engine need a lot more power to get moving than when single and she was jerky! Then she rumbled through a switch that was aligned to the diverging route – and sat with all here drivers on the ground. What is that? Much bigger engines have no problems with this switch and this one was unable to go through? Again I checked the wheel gauge, all the driving wheels were a bit wide. A few minutes before, and the wheels were tight! I checked again, this time each wheel set at several points. The result was disappointing; the driving wheels were wobbling - out of gauge to both sides! The jerking movement was due to the cracked gear on the driving axle. The manufacturer under warranty exchanged this. I was able to correct the wobbling to the allowed tolerances. However, the engine had still problems to stay on track when approaching a curve. From 1,5mm steel-sheet, I fabricated a new drawbar. I connected it at the same screw were the trailing truck of the 2-8-2 is attached. That helped! Now I have a fine running engine which pulls a 10 car train over 1,5 % grades and trough all kind of switches with ease. There is only one thing left which I would change if I could. It is the bad looking greenish-yellow headlight; a white LED would be much nicer!

How is that with RTR?
René.

[Rene Luethi]

I have three old Rivarossi articulated engines. All are good pulling racehorses; they do not like slow speed. The three pole motors of them are driving worm shafts and the worm gears are sitting on a worm shaft again. The corresponding worm gears are on the axles of the main drivers. This is an intelligent Z-drive system but the transmission ratio is not too high, thus the inability of creeping along at low speed. On all of these engines, I have turned down the wheel flanges to NMRA RP-25 dimensions. In addition, on one of them I have replaced the three pole motor with a can motor with a skewed five-pole armature. This was a major alteration and may be the locomotive is a little bit slower at low speed now. On new Rivarossi engines, this modification is obsolete; they have a five-pole motor already.
I have purchased an Athearn genesis 2-8-2. The wheels were a bit tight, compared to the NMRA gauge. I put the engine on the track, and with the lowest possible setting of the power pack, this engine needed two second to creep from one tie to the next. With more power, the Mikado glided nearly soundless over the track. It was great! I coupled here to a short string of cars who where nearby in the yard. Slowly I opened the throttle. The engine need a lot more power to get moving than when single and she was jerky! Then she rumbled through a switch that was aligned to the diverging route – and sat with all here drivers on the ground. What is that? Much bigger engines have no problems with this switch and this one was unable to go through? Again I checked the wheel gauge, all the driving wheels were a bit wide. A few minutes before, and the wheels were tight! I checked again, this time each wheel set at several points. The result was disappointing; the driving wheels were wobbling - out of gauge to both sides! The jerking movement was due to the cracked gear on the driving axle. The manufacturer under warranty exchanged this. I was able to correct the wobbling to the allowed tolerances. However, the engine had still problems to stay on track when approaching a curve. From 1,5mm steel-sheet, I fabricated a new drawbar. I connected it at the same screw were the trailing truck of the 2-8-2 is attached. That helped! Now I have a fine running engine which pulls a 10 car train over 1,5 % grades and trough all kind of switches with ease. There is only one thing left which I would change if I could. It is the bad looking greenish-yellow headlight; a white LED would be much nicer!

How is that with RTR?
René.

[Anonymous]

I have a Rivarossi 2-8-4 engine that run so well I really happy with it.
I has rubbered wheels and can pull a long load up my 3/4" to 16" incline with no problem.
Low speed to max is done really smooth. Looks great to.
Dave

[Anonymous]

I have a Rivarossi 2-8-4 engine that run so well I really happy with it.
I has rubbered wheels and can pull a long load up my 3/4" to 16" incline with no problem.
Low speed to max is done really smooth. Looks great to.
Dave

[cacole]

The Athearn Genesis Mikado is a very good steam locomotive, as are practically any Bachmann Spectrum engines. Rivarossi are more expensive than other brands for what you get. I have had trouble with Rivarossi models in the hot, dry Arizona climate with the rubber traction tires drying out, stretching, and coming off, so I now avoid locomotives with traction tires; otherwise, Rivarossi models run excellently. I don't have any experience yet with Broadway Limited Imports, but another club member here has one and it seems to be an excellent value. It runs smoothly and the sound system is excellent, especially in DCC mode. I concur with an earlier comment about Mantua -- I have several that don't run well at all because the motors they used were no good. Watch for Model Power to be re-releasing Mantua locomotives shortly at half the cost of the originals, with can motors and re-worked drives. Things to watch out for -- tighten the screws that hold Bachmann and Rivarossi drive rods on, and lubricate the drive rods before operating. One club member had a Spectrum Consolidation drive rod on one side fall apart after less than 30 minutes of running and get totally mangled. Another member bought a Rivarossi 2-truck Heisler and one of the drive rods fell off after less than 10 feet of operation. I also have several IHCs that run extremely well, but their detail is not as good as other brands. If you want to run DCC, here are my experiences: I own two or three of practically every Spectrum steam locomotive made, and have put decoders and/or SoundTraxx systems into all of them with nary a glitch. Rivarossi were never "DCC ready" and have to be hard wired. Mantua ran so poorly that I didn't even bother to put decoders into them. IHC also required hard wiring, but it was not that difficult. The Athearn Genesis is the easiest of all because a decoder with a 9-pin header plugs right in without even having to open up the tender.

[cacole]

The Athearn Genesis Mikado is a very good steam locomotive, as are practically any Bachmann Spectrum engines. Rivarossi are more expensive than other brands for what you get. I have had trouble with Rivarossi models in the hot, dry Arizona climate with the rubber traction tires drying out, stretching, and coming off, so I now avoid locomotives with traction tires; otherwise, Rivarossi models run excellently. I don't have any experience yet with Broadway Limited Imports, but another club member here has one and it seems to be an excellent value. It runs smoothly and the sound system is excellent, especially in DCC mode. I concur with an earlier comment about Mantua -- I have several that don't run well at all because the motors they used were no good. Watch for Model Power to be re-releasing Mantua locomotives shortly at half the cost of the originals, with can motors and re-worked drives. Things to watch out for -- tighten the screws that hold Bachmann and Rivarossi drive rods on, and lubricate the drive rods before operating. One club member had a Spectrum Consolidation drive rod on one side fall apart after less than 30 minutes of running and get totally mangled. Another member bought a Rivarossi 2-truck Heisler and one of the drive rods fell off after less than 10 feet of operation. I also have several IHCs that run extremely well, but their detail is not as good as other brands. If you want to run DCC, here are my experiences: I own two or three of practically every Spectrum steam locomotive made, and have put decoders and/or SoundTraxx systems into all of them with nary a glitch. Rivarossi were never "DCC ready" and have to be hard wired. Mantua ran so poorly that I didn't even bother to put decoders into them. IHC also required hard wiring, but it was not that difficult. The Athearn Genesis is the easiest of all because a decoder with a 9-pin header plugs right in without even having to open up the tender.

[Anonymous]

I cannot comment regarding today's plastic locos by Athearn, Bachman, Life-like, etc. However, an alternative that you might consider is used brass, particularly smaller locomotives. Their price does not seem to have jumped that much relative to the new brass coming out, which is very expensive. Balboa, PFM and Westside made very good running locomotives.

If you decide to take a look at this market, look for locos with can motors. If you are really ambitious, think about upgrading an older locomotive with an idler gear tower and can motor. You will need a re-quartering jig and wheel puller, but it can be a challenging and rewarding endeavor.

Most reliable hobby shops will allow you to return an engine if you are not satisfied. However, it is always preferable, as someone stated, to check the engine out before purchasing it.

Good luck.

Lou Adler

[Anonymous]

I cannot comment regarding today's plastic locos by Athearn, Bachman, Life-like, etc. However, an alternative that you might consider is used brass, particularly smaller locomotives. Their price does not seem to have jumped that much relative to the new brass coming out, which is very expensive. Balboa, PFM and Westside made very good running locomotives.

If you decide to take a look at this market, look for locos with can motors. If you are really ambitious, think about upgrading an older locomotive with an idler gear tower and can motor. You will need a re-quartering jig and wheel puller, but it can be a challenging and rewarding endeavor.

Most reliable hobby shops will allow you to return an engine if you are not satisfied. However, it is always preferable, as someone stated, to check the engine out before purchasing it.

Good luck.

Lou Adler

[Anonymous]

I have run some engines such as the Life Like Proto 0-6-0, Bachmann 4-8-2 and a pair of baby trainmasters. There is also a Athearn 2-8-2 that runs well but falls down a bit in the fake front coupler.

I keep drolling after the Riverossi Allengheny and have had access to an old AHM 2-8-8-2 Y-6b and a Riverossi Bigboy. That 2-8-8-2 will start any number of cars while the big boy gets to slip drivers. (I have had both the Bigboy and Y-6b together dragging a 3 pound steel block dead on the rail) I think the N and W 2-6-6-4 (Broadway) is king in the drawbar pull dept.

I dont use traction tires if I can avoid it. I think any good engine will move 12 cars or so and easily. I have eyed the IHC engines and if they run as good as you all say I think I can go and get one or two.

The worst engine I remember was a tyco steamer. IT was driven by a drive in the tender. It will derail at the first oppertunity. And it took enough throttle to dim the house lights and create ozone at the wheels and the shock of a spinning start either derailed the engine (Train too heavy) or broke couplers midway down the train's length. OR worse yet brought down the cars off a curved track. I used to be so enraged at the engine's lack of manners. I finally taped a brick to it and it promptly suicided. (I was a young un at the time)

Best of luck in this new and wonderful age of HO steam.

Lee

[Anonymous]

I have run some engines such as the Life Like Proto 0-6-0, Bachmann 4-8-2 and a pair of baby trainmasters. There is also a Athearn 2-8-2 that runs well but falls down a bit in the fake front coupler.

I keep drolling after the Riverossi Allengheny and have had access to an old AHM 2-8-8-2 Y-6b and a Riverossi Bigboy. That 2-8-8-2 will start any number of cars while the big boy gets to slip drivers. (I have had both the Bigboy and Y-6b together dragging a 3 pound steel block dead on the rail) I think the N and W 2-6-6-4 (Broadway) is king in the drawbar pull dept.

I dont use traction tires if I can avoid it. I think any good engine will move 12 cars or so and easily. I have eyed the IHC engines and if they run as good as you all say I think I can go and get one or two.

The worst engine I remember was a tyco steamer. IT was driven by a drive in the tender. It will derail at the first oppertunity. And it took enough throttle to dim the house lights and create ozone at the wheels and the shock of a spinning start either derailed the engine (Train too heavy) or broke couplers midway down the train's length. OR worse yet brought down the cars off a curved track. I used to be so enraged at the engine's lack of manners. I finally taped a brick to it and it promptly suicided. (I was a young un at the time)

Best of luck in this new and wonderful age of HO steam.

Lee

[Anonymous]

I have a Rivarossi 2 truck Heisler and so far I think it is great. Excellent low speed control (DCC) and has yet to derail, although it does not have a lot of pulling power. IMHO Bachmann Shays are good, I just received an IHC Camelback and I agree with a previous post, the detailing is not the greatest, but it runs very smoothly (I wish my Bachmann Spectrum 4-6-0 ran half this good).