I'd use them around the Christmas tree, but thats as far as I'd go. They are made of brass and tend to get dirty quickly so you'll need to clean them often. If you're building a NICE layout and are planning on running trains quite a while on it then I would NOT use them. You'll be much happier with the newer style turnouts that are made of nickel silver and look more prototypical. The new Atlas code 83 turnouts look and operate great for less than 10 dollars a piece. Walthers code 83 is my favorite, but they're typically about $15 dollars a piece. But man they look sweet.
Keep using the scraper on the floor. That's the best way to do it. Lots and lots of elbow grease
I'm going to suggest Goo Gone as a first step on both the carpet glue and the track.
You should also get a rail cleaning block -- for the age of your track, even a cheap one would do, or a flat piece of cork. Maybe paper towel or something to rub the tops of the rails.
You may want to use something else to clean the rails after the Goo Gone.
--David
I think one really has to look at your question from your viewpoint;
1. Your in school
2. limited budget.
3. $15 or more bucks a pop for turnouts.
4. If you toss them them....no yard.....
With the above in mind I would try using the brass track in a yard that can be accessable to replace the old turnouts later. As far as cleaning them, borrow a bit of Brasso from your mother and polish the top of the rails. You could paint or weather the rails. They will work.
I did that three years ago to get my yard going, now have about 300 feet of track and still wonder why i havent changed out 14 turnouts in my yard yet, Perhaps its that they work OK. and other prioritys for the $$$$. All Im saying is ...give them a try, if you dont like them, then toss them.
I have the same items, perhaps older than yours.
I only took a picture of switches, but I also have curved and strait track. I would use the turnouts. You might not want to use the regular track, but the turnouts are great. Go to the store, and get a brass boy track cleaner and fine steel wool, with or without soap in it. If you have a corrosive cleaning element, put it in a bucket and fill it with hot water. Take the motor unit off by unscrewing the screws, and put the turnout in the water. Allow it to sit, and then use the steel wool to get all of your grease and grime off, and then polish it clean with the eraser. You can go even farther by using very fine sandpaper to polish the tops of the rails.
Thanks,Spit
jwar wrote:With the above in mind I would try using the brass track in a yard that can be accessable to replace the old turnouts later. As far as cleaning them, borrow a bit of Brasso from your mother and polish the top of the rails. You could paint or weather the rails. They will work.
They don't look too bad to me. I think if I was in your situation I would find some way to make them work. I would be more worried about them being bent or disfigured rather than dirty. As others have said dirt can be cleaned. While cleaning, remember that the only place the train needs to make contact with (for electricity flow) is the very top, and the top of the inside.
Also no one mentioned an ultrasonic cleaner if you have access to one.
By all means, use the old turnouts. You may have to clean them up (if that is fiber tie material, don't soak them in any kind of liquid!) and you may have to clean the rails before every operating session, but they will give you a mighty big boost in construction tempo.
Plan on replacing them when financial pressures ease, which means don't solder every rail joint (never a good idea with turnouts of any kind.) As problems arise (they will!) and finances allow, you can replace troublemakers one or a few at a time. In the meantime, you will have a railroad you can switch, not just run.
Good luck with your construction.
Chuck
I would definitely trash those old switches and buy new ones.
From the looks of them they look like they should have been trashed a long time ago.
Materials have greatly improved and I wouldn't want the headaches and frustrations that the old junk will bring!
cf7
Cf7
You and I can certenly afford to replace them, however I was not looking at his problem from my standpoint, but his limited budget, to get further into model railroading as his desires take him, and most importent they will work if in decent repair and in gauge. Contrary to popular belief Brass does not have to be cleaned for each use and is durable.
And Yes I am going to change out my brass, however Im on a limited income too...retired...take care have a great day...John
cf7...have you ever heard of something called time, patients, and elbow grease?
Anyhow, I really don't see what the big fuss is about brass. If you have the money to replace it, do so, but if you don't, it's not like it's the first turnout ever built. It has a few decades of experiance under it's belt, so with a little cleaning, it will work just as good as the nickle silver, even if you don't do a thourough cleaning, like I mentioned in the above thread.
I have brass turnouts in my collection far older than yours, approaching a half-century. While they still work, they are brass and will tarnish easily. I had some brass Shinohara 3-ways that I ended up replacing after trying to make them work properly, but the Atlas ones will probably still work. Eventually, though, you'll want to replace them. First, the brass doesn't work well and will tarnish, and second, the Atlas above-table switch motors look terrible. However, for a first layout they might be OK.
The pleasant surprise is that those ancient switch motors probably still work, and, believe it or not, they will fit the current generation of Atlas snap-switches. So, you can save a few bucks by buying manual turnouts and then replacing the plastic controls with your old ones.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
ThinkGeek
Having used brass turnouts and track in the past - assuming they are mechanically sound, the only issue is the extra cleaning for brass rail oxidation. The amount of cleaning depends on your room environment and how often you run your trains. The more you run trains over brass rail, the less it oxidizes. Run the trains several times a week with 10+ passes of trains with metal wheels and you will have no brass oxidation (you still may have other dirt problems but rail material doesn't matter for dirt). For this reason, I recommend you put the brass turnouts in the most frequently used track.
And NEVER use steel wool for cleaning model railroad equipment. The tiny steel strands left behind will cause no end of problems. Don't ask me how I know this - it damaged a fine Lionel loco when I was young. Use a non-metallic abrasive pad like Scotchbrite instead.
my thoughts, your choices
Fred Wright