Realistic track work

[dehusman]

Track center spacing on US mainlines is about 13 ft. It varies from place to place and road to road. Very rarely less than 12 ft. recently reconstructed tracks may be 20-25 ft apart. Track centers may widen on curves, but not that much.

In HO the generally accepted track center spacing is about 2 inches on tangent and 2-2 1/4 in on curves.

Dave H.

[dehusman]

Track center spacing on US mainlines is about 13 ft. It varies from place to place and road to road. Very rarely less than 12 ft. recently reconstructed tracks may be 20-25 ft apart. Track centers may widen on curves, but not that much.

In HO the generally accepted track center spacing is about 2 inches on tangent and 2-2 1/4 in on curves.

Dave H.

[johncolley]

I am using 83 for mainlines and 70 for yards, spurs and sidings. I am curious to see how many folks are using/planning to use large radii with easements and large no. turnouts? I am planning to use #10 for mainline crossings and #8 for sidings, #6 for most spurs with some forked branches #4 or #4 wye. I am using 24 to 36inch radius on hidden or obscured curves with 42, 48, or even 60 to 72 inch on visible arcs less than 90 degrees. John Colley Port Townsend, WA

[johncolley]

I am using 83 for mainlines and 70 for yards, spurs and sidings. I am curious to see how many folks are using/planning to use large radii with easements and large no. turnouts? I am planning to use #10 for mainline crossings and #8 for sidings, #6 for most spurs with some forked branches #4 or #4 wye. I am using 24 to 36inch radius on hidden or obscured curves with 42, 48, or even 60 to 72 inch on visible arcs less than 90 degrees. John Colley Port Townsend, WA

[Anonymous]

My network is mainly 3 rail Microengineering and it works well. I have Shinohara points which are OK but I have some problems with the narrow guage engines and the larger standard guage engines. I ought not to have these problems with the HOn3 engines because they are all brass. The problem with the HO engines is that some have the deep flanges that came before the new finer tolerances and rail heights. Wiring 3 rail needs patience!

I model the Rio Grande Southern with its coaches all ones that served on the Rio Grande, Pagosa and Northern and I live near Brighton England. Why do I model that? I like the two quirky railroads and the decent sized narrow guaged engines, some of which are bigger than English standard guage!

[Anonymous]

My network is mainly 3 rail Microengineering and it works well. I have Shinohara points which are OK but I have some problems with the narrow guage engines and the larger standard guage engines. I ought not to have these problems with the HOn3 engines because they are all brass. The problem with the HO engines is that some have the deep flanges that came before the new finer tolerances and rail heights. Wiring 3 rail needs patience!

I model the Rio Grande Southern with its coaches all ones that served on the Rio Grande, Pagosa and Northern and I live near Brighton England. Why do I model that? I like the two quirky railroads and the decent sized narrow guaged engines, some of which are bigger than English standard guage!

[jrbarney]

Richard,
Dave's post didn't mention a source for the fishplates. Just bought a copy of the 2004 Walthers catalogue yesterday, and while thumbing through it noted that, for one, Details West, sells them. They have both 2 bolt (Code 70) and 3 bolt (Code 83) fishplates/railbars and also offer two types of turnout rail braces. Add a razor saw slot every 39 feet and you could have some detailed foreground trackage. Their Web site for these and other trackside details is: <http://www.detailswest.com>
Bob

[jrbarney]

Richard,
Dave's post didn't mention a source for the fishplates. Just bought a copy of the 2004 Walthers catalogue yesterday, and while thumbing through it noted that, for one, Details West, sells them. They have both 2 bolt (Code 70) and 3 bolt (Code 83) fishplates/railbars and also offer two types of turnout rail braces. Add a razor saw slot every 39 feet and you could have some detailed foreground trackage. Their Web site for these and other trackside details is: <http://www.detailswest.com>
Bob

[Anonymous]

I am not a expert at laying track. I use Atlas Code 83 and #6 for mains, #4 for yards etc. I also use flextrack to try and breakup long straight sections as well as cutting down on joints of sectional track.

However if done properly handlaid track can really bring joy to you. I think if I did it, I may end up in a sanitarum screaming "Ties!, Ties!, Ties!"

I recently watched the UP replace every tie on a 50 mile stretch of double track. Took them several weeks with every train crawling past blasting the wistle every 10 feet. But now they have fine track. None of that pumping with spurting mud and water splashing on the crossing.

[Anonymous]

I am not a expert at laying track. I use Atlas Code 83 and #6 for mains, #4 for yards etc. I also use flextrack to try and breakup long straight sections as well as cutting down on joints of sectional track.

However if done properly handlaid track can really bring joy to you. I think if I did it, I may end up in a sanitarum screaming "Ties!, Ties!, Ties!"

I recently watched the UP replace every tie on a 50 mile stretch of double track. Took them several weeks with every train crawling past blasting the wistle every 10 feet. But now they have fine track. None of that pumping with spurting mud and water splashing on the crossing.

[Anonymous]

The standard I use is code 83 on the mainlines, code 70 in the yards.
It really makes a difference.

I have no problems transitioning from Code 83 to code 70 as needed.

In fact, I even glue one metal fishplates every scale 39 feet on the foreground sidings on the code 70. Very subtle, adds more realism, and some "clickety clack" for some cars. :)

One problem: some Altas "Code 83" flex track is thicker and looks more like Code 100 when laid next to MicroEngineering Code 83 flex and/or Walthers/Shinohara Code 83 turnouts. Hmmm... makes me wonder if the local hobby shop is passing off Code 100 flex as code 83? :)

As for code 100 turnouts in staging areas, beware.
Atlas custom line #6 turnouts work fine, but I had a bad experience with a very old Mark III (?) turnout. The points are not rails, but actually bent sheet metal.
The rounded surface makes my low profile flanges wander and derailments can occur. This defeats the purpose of high-profile rail in hidden areas!

[Anonymous]

The standard I use is code 83 on the mainlines, code 70 in the yards.
It really makes a difference.

I have no problems transitioning from Code 83 to code 70 as needed.

In fact, I even glue one metal fishplates every scale 39 feet on the foreground sidings on the code 70. Very subtle, adds more realism, and some "clickety clack" for some cars. :)

One problem: some Altas "Code 83" flex track is thicker and looks more like Code 100 when laid next to MicroEngineering Code 83 flex and/or Walthers/Shinohara Code 83 turnouts. Hmmm... makes me wonder if the local hobby shop is passing off Code 100 flex as code 83? :)

As for code 100 turnouts in staging areas, beware.
Atlas custom line #6 turnouts work fine, but I had a bad experience with a very old Mark III (?) turnout. The points are not rails, but actually bent sheet metal.
The rounded surface makes my low profile flanges wander and derailments can occur. This defeats the purpose of high-profile rail in hidden areas!

[Anonymous]

I have used both Shinohara and Atlas code 83 on the mainline and sidings. I find the Atlas is just as good as the other and after you ballast the track, you can't really tell the difference. I've used Shinohara turnouts but am slowly replacing them with hand-laid ones. It is not as difficult as it seems and you can make them whatever size you want. This is particularly helpful on curved turnouts. Also there is less problems with DCC.

I used Atlas code 100 in my hidden staging areas for three reasons; there are less derailments; it's cheaper and I can use Peco turnouts.

[Anonymous]

I have used both Shinohara and Atlas code 83 on the mainline and sidings. I find the Atlas is just as good as the other and after you ballast the track, you can't really tell the difference. I've used Shinohara turnouts but am slowly replacing them with hand-laid ones. It is not as difficult as it seems and you can make them whatever size you want. This is particularly helpful on curved turnouts. Also there is less problems with DCC.

I used Atlas code 100 in my hidden staging areas for three reasons; there are less derailments; it's cheaper and I can use Peco turnouts.

[der5997]

Richard: How about a comprimise? (Like rsn48, I'm Canadain, and comprimise seems to be a national passtime [:)] Code 70 for your regular track, code 83 for the #10 turnouts. By the time it's all painted and ballasted, (quick pause to admire a truly awesome sunset) you will be well pleased, I think.

[der5997]

Richard: How about a comprimise? (Like rsn48, I'm Canadain, and comprimise seems to be a national passtime [:)] Code 70 for your regular track, code 83 for the #10 turnouts. By the time it's all painted and ballasted, (quick pause to admire a truly awesome sunset) you will be well pleased, I think.

[Anonymous]

I will modify what I said as I forgot the code:

Shinohara is the preferred brand here in Vancouver BC - Code 70.

[Anonymous]

I will modify what I said as I forgot the code:

Shinohara is the preferred brand here in Vancouver BC - Code 70.

[Anonymous]

Richard,

I don't know what area/state/road of the US you are intrested in but www.mapquest.com will show railroads on their maps. Example: Ogden Utah has a large Union Pacific hub, zoom in and you'll see the track routes.

Dave

[Anonymous]

Richard,

I don't know what area/state/road of the US you are intrested in but www.mapquest.com will show railroads on their maps. Example: Ogden Utah has a large Union Pacific hub, zoom in and you'll see the track routes.

Dave

[swknox]

Oh and thats switch not swicth. It's like 3:00a.m. in the morning here so I am sleepy. But anyway GOOD LUCK! If you or anybody esle would like to look at a good website which offers maps, timetables, pictures, and general info, then check out www.trainweb.org/peninsularailfan/index.html which covers great railroading here in the tiny state of Delaware following the Norfolk Southern and a great shortline The Maryland And Delaware RR with great pictures of Alcos still hard at work!!!

[swknox]

Oh and thats switch not swicth. It's like 3:00a.m. in the morning here so I am sleepy. But anyway GOOD LUCK! If you or anybody esle would like to look at a good website which offers maps, timetables, pictures, and general info, then check out www.trainweb.org/peninsularailfan/index.html which covers great railroading here in the tiny state of Delaware following the Norfolk Southern and a great shortline The Maryland And Delaware RR with great pictures of Alcos still hard at work!!!

[swknox]

Hello Richard. I dont know what code it is but Atlas Model Railroad company now offers a # 10 turnout. They also have a great selection of other track esp. in code 83. Goto www.atlasrr.com and check it out. I don't know if you can get atlas in Germany but if you can you might want to swicth now because of all of the other track I have used Atlas is by far the best so far here in the USA - but thats just my opinion though.

[swknox]

Hello Richard. I dont know what code it is but Atlas Model Railroad company now offers a # 10 turnout. They also have a great selection of other track esp. in code 83. Goto www.atlasrr.com and check it out. I don't know if you can get atlas in Germany but if you can you might want to swicth now because of all of the other track I have used Atlas is by far the best so far here in the USA - but thats just my opinion though.

[snowey]

I don't know if you can buy any of the how-to books by Kalmbach Publishing in Germany, but you can also buy them online. You should DEFINETLY get some of these, as they're all exellent & will tell you everything you need to know.

[snowey]

I don't know if you can buy any of the how-to books by Kalmbach Publishing in Germany, but you can also buy them online. You should DEFINETLY get some of these, as they're all exellent & will tell you everything you need to know.

[Anonymous]

In Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada, Shinohara is the preferred brand among serious HO modeller's. It will be just fine for your layout.

[Anonymous]

In Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada, Shinohara is the preferred brand among serious HO modeller's. It will be just fine for your layout.

[IRONROOSTER]

Hand laid track means you start with components- rails, ties, spikes, and optionally tie plates (thanks Bob for the update on PSC). There are different methods for construction, tie staining, weathering etc: but in general you glue the ties on the roadbed and then spike the rail to the ties. ( I have successfully used Walther's goo instead of spikes, any similar glue should work also). On my current layout I am using code 100 Shinohara flex track for the mailine and plan to hand lay code 83 for sidings since code 83 flex is not made for S scale. Personally, I think flex track is easier and faster to lay, but perhaps that's because I don't do that much hand laid track.
Enjoy
Paul