Brick mortor question.

[SMassey]

Hey guys!
I just bought the new (I think it is new anyway I just reciently found it) Walthers Cornerstone City Station (HO scale 933-2904). This is a nice looking structure that has alot of potential for many different aplications. It is molded in a dark red color that does not really mimic brick very well. That is only part of the problem I have here. I currently live in navy barracks and cant paint with a spray can or airbrush (all painting is not authorized [:(] ). I want to make the brick look more realistic and have the mortor show as well. In the past I have done this with grey paint and colored pencils. Paint everything grey then use various shades of brown and red to give the brick its color back. This is the only method I know of for getting mortor to show. Do any of you know other ways that does not involve using paints? Chalks or other methods that I could do here in the barracks.

Thanks in advance.

[pcarrell]

For the bricks, how about dye? Like shoe dye.

For the mortar, how about weathering powders? Time consuming, but it should work.

Or better yet, paint it off base and bring it back. Or have a buddy paint it.

[SOU Fan]

For the Mortar, if you grind down some chalk and then rub it on it looks like mortar. I rub it on with my finger or a paint brush. Hope this helps

[bryanbell]

I paint the structure the brick color I want and then I use a mortor colored paint diluted with water. The watered down paint flows into the mortor joints. You will have to use a paper towel to dab it off of the spots that it gets on to the brick face. I use acrylic paints for it all. Alcohol can also be used instead of water as well.

Bryan

[simon1966]

The method Bryan described works very well. The key is watered down paint. Capillary action pulls the paint into the mortar lines. I just load my brush with the watered paint an touch the side of the structure (horizontal to work), the paint is then sucked into the mortar joints. Sometimes I will let it dry and try another application if I don't get enough of the effect I am looking for.

Here are some flats that I did this way


After completion with some weathering

[Jetrock]

Is it possible for you to paint somewhere else than the barracks? Take the kit into town, buy a 99 cent can of red auto body primer and some masking tape, and grab an advertising flyer or free newspaper or something. Go find a quiet alley or someplace, tape down some newspaper so you don't inadvertently vandalize the ground, spray your building thoroughly and throw out the can. Once the paint is dry, pack up the kit, take up the taped-down paper and throw it out, and return to base, mission accomplished.

[SMassey]

Thanks for the advise everyone. I will see what I can come up with based on these ideas. if there is any other ideas I would love to hear them as well. Thanks again.

[MisterBeasley]

I am using the Betty Crocker method. Take ordinary flour and rub it into the mortar lines, brushing it off of the bricks. Take care with inside corners because they can catch too much. Once you've got it the way you want it, drive to Wal-Mart and park way out in the corner of the lot, in one of those places that only gets used on the day after Thanksgiving. Spray the the bricks with Dul-Coat and you're done.

[TomDiehl]

Even simpler than that, and something you should be able to do in the barricks, heck, you may have this stuff already. Talcum powder and hairspray. Spread the talcum powder on the walls and slide your finger over it to force it into the mortar lines. Once it looks the way you'd like, hold the hairspray can back (it WILL blow the talc away) and sort of lob the spray over the walls to wet the area. The talc will disappear until the hairspray dries.

Another nice thing about this, if you really mess it up, you can clean it out with soap and water and try again.

[Anonymous]

I like Robert's Brick Mortar. He advertises in Model Railroad News, occasionally in MRR.

Mike Tennent

[jrbarney]

SMassey,
Is your installation large enough to have an auto hobby shop where sailors are allowed to work on their personal vehicles ? If so, it might even have a spray booth or touch-up area. Just a thought.
Bob
NMRA Life 0543

[SMassey]

Oh how I wish I could spend time in an autobody shop again. This base has a garage but no painting can be done. And most bases no longer allow autobody work on personal cars and stuff. There are alot of reasons for this the main one is safety. I used to be an autobody painter but I have a sensitivity to some of the chemicals (yes I did use proper gear to paint) so unless I want to mess my nervous system up any more than it already is I stay away from the stuff.

Just a note for any of you out there that use autobody paints The catalised and enamal paints now use a chemical called Isocyanide (or Isocyanates) that is a dirivitive of Cyanide gas (nerve agent) the same chemical is also used in "super glue" or other CA type glues. Be careful and use in a very well ventalated area and/or with a charcoal respirator. Laquer based paints usually do not have these chemicals in them but proper gear is always a good idea.

[Medina1128]

I use off white acrylic paint diluted with alcohol. It flows into the cracks better than water and dries a lot faster. I found that when I used chalks and flour, it becomes a little muted when Dullcote is sprayed on it, requiring mutliple applications of the color. With paint, it doesn't.

[SMassey]

OK thanks for the advise guys I found a method that seems to work really good. I just took some acrylic paint and thinned it to about a milk consistancy and applied 2 coats to the wall and floor bricks. I got a little paint on the bricks themselves too but used my fingernail to clean that off. It left a good look to the building. I will be posting pics of the Station soon as I can. I think that I am going to use this station as a post office with rail access. To me it kinda looks like a PO. Well again thanks and I should be able to post the pics of the building tomorrow.

[Anonymous]

I spent several years in the Army, and everywhere I was stationed had some sort of morale, welfare & recreation (MWR) facility with a woodworking or ceramics shop. I'm not sure how the Navy operates it's MWR equivilent, but it might be worth looking into.

Someone already mentioned shoe polish - use white rubbed into the joints & use a mixture of oxblood & black (or brown - depending on desired results) for the face of the brick.

One question I just have to ask - are female sailors allowed to paint their nails on base? I know the military would NEVER have such a double standard, now would they?

[SMassey]

We do have a MWR facility here but it is only for auto repair. Where I am from in Norfolk they have a craft shop but if I am in Norfolk then I will have my own home and tools to work with so it would not be a big deal. And no the Navy would NEVER have a double standard.

Yes females here can paint their nails but us guys cant paint a model with the same stuff.

[SMassey]

OK got the pictures and here they are. Sorry they are a little fuzzy my camera is not the best out there but it works.







Also sory about the load times I tried to make the pics smaller but that took the detail away from the brick and that is what I am trying to show here.

Lemme know what ya all think

[DigitalGriffin]

Not bad results Mike. I always had a problem with consistancy over large surfaces when I watered down my paints.with water alchohol, and soap. But it looks like you handled it well.

I tried the talc powder this weekend with a scrap piece on my Car shop. I painted the brick color a "roof brown", and boy did that talc show up! Worked like a charm. However with the oversized mortar in the walthers building it lit overwhelmed the rest of it. The glaring "whiteness" also didn't help. The mortor needed to be much darker.

However using talc on my city classics town house looked great. It was light tan colored brick with fine motor lines.

I think I'm going to try medium gray chalk rubbed into the cracks next. I wonder if sealing it with hair spray would work?