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Trimming the mountain off a layout to move it

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  • Member since
    December 2003
  • 84 posts
Trimming the mountain off a layout to move it
Posted by sansouci on Thursday, January 12, 2006 3:50 PM
I am trying to figure out the best way to cut off some mountains in a layout built of Hydrocal and foam. A recip saw may vibrate the layout too much. Perhaps a hand operated hack saw blade. Any advice? If I get real lucky, I might be able to decapitate the scenery so that it could be reassembled in place. Never done it before.
If you want to know why, the previous owner built hills that were over 2'6" high so even turning the structure sideways, it won't fit through the doors into the basement. It's the proverbial boat-in-a-basement.
Thanks,
Ken
The Southampton-Sag Harbour-Montauk Line
"The Route to The End"
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Metro East St. Louis
  • 5,743 posts
Posted by simon1966 on Thursday, January 12, 2006 4:17 PM
If you can cut thru the plaster with a hand saw, can you then get between any of the layers of foam to lever it apart? I am assuming (perhaps incorrectly) that the foam was applied in layers and that you could possibly break the glue bond between some of the layers?

Simon Modelling CB&Q and Wabash See my slowly evolving layout on my picturetrail site http://www.picturetrail.com/simontrains and our videos at http://www.youtube.com/user/MrCrispybake?feature=mhum

  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: New Brighton, MN
  • 4,393 posts
Posted by ARTHILL on Thursday, January 12, 2006 5:16 PM
Use the sawzal and save the time to put it back together. The moving will cause more problems than the cutting. It will be easier than starting from scratch, but moving a layout is difficult because the tolerances are so tight. Don't be bashful, or hesitant, just plan on a lot of adjusting to get to run again.
If you think you have it right, your standards are too low. my photos http://s12.photobucket.com/albums/a235/ARTHILL/ Art
  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
  • 23,330 posts
Posted by selector on Thursday, January 12, 2006 5:23 PM
It is certain that the base of the mountain is plaster cloth or hydrocal to make a nice topography. Even if it is something else, I would take a small hammer and lightly ba***he base of the mountain to see how it is fixed in place. Piece away the shards of "stuff" and then see how the mountain sits. It may be glued, nailed, screwed, etc. If you can peel away the covering and see that it is fairly cleanly sitting on plywood, then use a sturdy trowel to shove between the foam and the bench and pry up. You may get lucky and find that the mountain lifts off relatively intact, in which case placing it and plastering it once you have moved will take an hour at most. Painting and scenic touch-up a bit longer.
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • 84 posts
Posted by sansouci on Thursday, January 12, 2006 8:23 PM
Thanks guys. I'm going to examine it in more detail on Saturday as It has a grid benchwork so that I can look from underneath and get some more ideas. Will keep you posted. I may not need the mountains as the Long Island area (my rough prototype) is mostly flat.
Ken
The Southampton-Sag Harbour-Montauk Line
"The Route to The End"
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • 84 posts
Posted by sansouci on Monday, January 16, 2006 6:53 PM
Well, It's hydrocal over a wire mesh base. It was recommended to me to use a Sawz-all with a fine blace and go very slow. I'll let you know!
  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Vancouver Island, BC
  • 23,330 posts
Posted by selector on Tuesday, January 17, 2006 12:33 AM
Disk grinder will be faster, but dusty.

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