Backdrop question

[Anonymous]

I have built a layout in a room where I have to allow access to a closet, a dormer where my workbench is located, and a window for light and ventilation. I built the layout on casters so it can be moved so I can clean the window. It measures 12.5' along the window wall and 8' along both sides. The whole thing is in the shape of an "E," with the prongs of the "E" sticking out into the room.

I would like to put up some kind of backdrop but it needs to be attached to the layout. I bought a bunch of .060" styrene but I've found it will be "floppy" without a support frame. I had planned on affixing it to the side of my 1" x 4" layout frame. Space is so limited that I do not want to give up 2" of space for 1" x 2" support framing.

So the questions are: do I dump the styrene and go with 1/8" Masonite?

If the Masonite, can I simply screw it to the side of the 1" x 4" framing without additional support? If so, how tall can I make the backdrop without it getting too flimsy?

The styrene would look better and it cost quite a bit so I'd like to use it. I think I maybe a total of 12" of backdrop height would be stable enough free standing using the plastic. Four inches would be supported by the 1" x 4" layout frame and about 8" to 10" exposed as backdrop. Is that worth doing? I am in quite a quandry.

[dgwinup]

Get some large pieces of cardboard or stiff paper, cut them to size and install a piece on your layout at your proposed height. That should give you an indication of what the plastic would look like as a backdrop. If you like how it looks, you can make a permanent backdrop out of your styrene.

Styrene, at .060" thick, is not very stiff, but you don't need 2" material to hold it up. Pick up a few pieces of 1/4" x 1" wood strips or molding strips of about the same dimension. You can screw these flat to the sides of your layout with the strips extending up to the height of your backdrop. The styrene can be glued to the strips with low-temp hot melt glue. The wood strips will give the needed support to the styrene.

Hope this helps.

Darrell, quiet...for now

[Anonymous]

1/4" x 1" strips of wood sound a lot like paint stirrer sticks... [;)] I wonder how many you can get out of the paint store for free...?! [:D]

Andrew

[pcarrell]

The 1/4 inch wood might work, but I'd be concerned about humidity changes and the like possibly warping the wood over time and causing the backdrop to suffer in the looks dept.

I was thinking about some foam insulation sheets, say the 1/2 inch stuff. It isn't suseptable to weather changes and so it might be a better way to go. I know its a little thicker, but that just gives you some gluing surface on the edges to join the pieces together. For larger curves you could substitute some 1/4 inch foam, and for tighter curves maybe some poster board for backing as it won't need any real support there, it'll just need an opaque back so that it all looks the same from the front.

Those paint sticks might even be good glued over the joints in the foam board if you live in a high humidity area.

Now if you are in a climate controled area you can jsut disregard all of this as meaningless dribble, or do it anyways, just for giggles. [;)]

Just my 2 cents.......[8D]

[colvinbackshop]

The ideas are almost endless...And most anything will perhaps have some limitations.
I have tried 1/4" plywood. It works great on the flat sections, but wouldn't bend very well in the corners. I also tried 1/2" pink foam board down the center of my peninsula and really liked it's ease of use, being very light weight and pretty flexible. It however wouldn't bend as tight a corner as I needed/wanted, so I backed off on the curve some. Even with that, it broke a few days after being installed, warranting the removal and replacement.
With that said...I now use the plywood on the flat/straight runs (because I already had it in place), masonite on the more sweeping corners and .060 styrene on the very tightest corners.
Yes, there is an expansion/contraction issue even though the Trainroom is heated, the humidity changes some and with the two different products that can take on moisture the seams move some. I can, however live with it...This MRRing thing is just a learning process...Isn't it??!!??
If I were to do it again I would stick with using the styrene only. It is light weight, not affected by climate change, very flexible and very easy to install.
In your situation, where you need some support to keep everything "up-right" and not floppy, here is a thought.....As long as you already have the styrene:
Attach the backdrop to you layout on the wood framing as you have mentioned, them at the joints and where ever deemed necessary add a "stiffener" (a heaver, more rigid strip of styrene, pretty much the same concept as a pilaster on a concrete block wall) glued directly to the sheets of .060. This wouldn't take as much space as a wood frame and should do the trick.
Another thought and perhaps better yet; join the sheets with a strip of styrene and then support it up-right with a metal rod (steel welding rod) attached to the wood frame with a couple of staples and glued to the styrene with a PL300 type of product
Just a few ideas that came to mind. Good luck!

[Anonymous]

I have been postponing any further work on the layout because of this problem. That's a polite way of saying I have been "dithering." My wife informed me this morning that I have to get the layout rolled out of the way (I moved it away from the walls to get the backdop installed) so she can get to the Christmas decorations in the closet. Now I have a path to follow to start making progress again. Thanks all of you very much for the suggestions.

[pcarrell]

QUOTE: Originally posted by colvinbackshop

I also tried 1/2" pink foam board down the center of my peninsula and really liked it's ease of use, being very light weight and pretty flexible. It however wouldn't bend as tight a corner as I needed/wanted, so I backed off on the curve some. Even with that, it broke a few days after being installed, warranting the removal and replacement.

We must have used different products as I didn't have that result. I used the 1/4 inch stuff with the plastic coating on it. Maybe that was the difference. Sorry to hear about your having to redo it all. [:(][B)]

[ham99]

I used 1/8" Masonite for my background. It is 16" high and 24 feet long, mostly in six-foot sections. I edged the panels with 1/2"x5/8" strips of ash [hardwood]. Then I drilled 9/32" matching holes in the ends and joined them with 1/4" dowels [slip fit]. Masonite provides a nice surface for painting background scenes.

[blubryexp]

First of all,I'm a rookie with almost the same problem. The Layout is also like an "E" and is 6-1/2 X 12-1/2 feet. Needed space between the layout and the basement wall. Rightly or wrongly,I did the following. Decided to use 1/8" masonite panels. Laminated(glued) 5" wide X 3/8" plywood on both sides of a 2" wide masonite strip(total thickness=7/8") thus creating a slotted channel. Mounted the laminated composite to the side of the bench. Since the slot is the same width as the Masonite, the panels fit snugly into the slots. Also,if I chose to change the scenery,the panels could be slipped out and new ones put in. They might need some kind of joiners at the top of seams though. Still in the building stage so I don't have a verdict on this method.

JEB

[dgwinup]

QUOTE: Originally posted by bellerose

First of all,I'm a rookie with almost the same problem. The Layout is also like an "E" and is 6-1/2 X 12-1/2 feet. Needed space between the layout and the basement wall. Rightly or wrongly,I did the following. Decided to use 1/8" masonite panels. Laminated(glued) 5" wide X 3/8" plywood on both sides of a 2" wide masonite strip(total thickness=7/8") thus creating a slotted channel. Mounted the laminated composite to the side of the bench. Since the slot is the same width as the Masonite, the panels fit snugly into the slots. Also,if I chose to change the scenery,the panels could be slipped out and new ones put in. They might need some kind of joiners at the top of seams though. Still in the building stage so I don't have a verdict on this method.

JEB

Sounds like a very acceptable and workable solution, although it seems like a lot of work to me. But remember, I'm the kind of guy who likes staples and scotch tape! LOL

Darrell, quiet...for now