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2 Layouts at once?

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  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Mass
  • 1,063 posts
2 Layouts at once?
Posted by trainfreek92 on Thursday, September 22, 2005 6:40 PM
Thats right two layouts at once,as many of you know i am going to start a 4x8 N scale. Well now my Grandfarther ( he origanal gave me my first Ho) are going to build a 4x8 Ho scale. Both track plans were designed by me. But the Ho is going to have Atlas code 100 on cork roadbed and later Be ballasted. While the N scale is going to have Kato Unitrack. I already have most of the materials for the Ho, just need some track nails and one more switch. The N scale is going to be at my house while the Ho is gong to be at my Grandpas house. Having built a 4x8 Ho have some experince but would like some roadbed laying techneguis. thanks trainfreek. [:D]
Running New England trains on The Maple Lead & Pine Tree Central RR from the late 50's to the early 80's in N scale
  • Member since
    May 2005
  • 1,168 posts
Posted by dgwinup on Thursday, September 22, 2005 11:45 PM
trainfreek92, you are one very ambitious young man. My hat's off to you!

As far as roadbed techniques, you will get many suggestions. I use only two types of roadbed: cork and Woodland Scenics foam. The WS foam seems to be quieter than cork when used on plywood, but doesn't make too much difference when used on blue or pink foam boards. With cork roadbed, I like to use an adhesive in a caulking gun (Liquid Nails for Foam or any acrylic adhesive), lay out a bead and use a small putty knife to spread a thin layer where your roadbed will go. Cork roadbed needs to be separated at the split, so you can lay one side down along your track centerline (you did draw track centerlines, didn't you?). Pin it in place with florist's pins or large bulletin board pins. Now you can lay the other side of the roadbed up against the first one. The pins are temporary and are removed once the adhesive has set. Don't forget to stagger the joints in your roadbed. Once the roadbed is completely dry, lightly sand the surface to make a smooth surface for the track. While sanding, also sand the coarse edge of the cork at the top of the shoulder. This will keep the cork from showing through the ballast.

WS foam roadbed has adhesive on both sides. Lay the roadbed out following your track centerlines as much as possible. Then you can lay your track. To insure the track is installed on the roadbed, you need to press the track down into the roadbed a little bit. If you don't press it down until you are almost done laying out your track, you can change it without disturbing the roadbed.

I think most modelers use some form of adhesive to glue their track onto the roadbed. I don't. I use a mix of Weldwood Resin Glue (a dry powdered glue) well-mixed with my ballast. I use about 10-15% glue to ballast ratio by volume. After laying out my track on top of the roadbed, and pinning in place with partially inserted track nails or florist's pins, I spread this mixture along the ties and on the shoulders of the roadbed and fine-tune with small brushes. Add alcohol to water (50/50 is okay), maybe add a drop of liquid detergent, in a fine mister. I use an old pump hairspray bottle. Now soak the ballast with this solution. You do not need to go fast with the ballasting but you do need to soak it well. The water activates the glue mixed into the ballast and dries ROCK-HARD! You do not need to use track nails to hold the track in place.

Hope all this helps. Keep us informed of your progress (pictures are MUCH appreciated!).

Darrell, rockily quiet...for now
Darrell, quiet...for now
  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Mass
  • 1,063 posts
Posted by trainfreek92 on Friday, September 23, 2005 2:13 PM
Darrel i Have not started the layouts yet but will be I about 1 to 2 moths from now. My last layout i used Woodlend scenics foam roadbed, but did not like it this time i am going to use ballaste cork, thanks for the tips[8D]
Running New England trains on The Maple Lead & Pine Tree Central RR from the late 50's to the early 80's in N scale

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