I may be getting back in to model railroading - pls Help...

[Anonymous]

A few years ago, I started getting involved with N-Scale model railroading - but then sold everything and went into RC racing. I now am looking at getting back in to railroading, but I am still undecided at this point - I don't know what scale I want to go with (either N or HO) - this will be decided by the current state of DCC.

I am about 99% sure I want to go DCC, and I do have an electronics background, but I don't want the enjoyment to be overwhelmed by struggles getting decoders installed in N-scale engines, or with other DCC issues. How difficult is it to install decoders in N-Scale stuff? What "functions" could be done with an engine? It there more than just lights on/off? Seperate front / rear lights possibly? Seperate strobe lights? Is sound inside the engines realistic in N-Scale? What all else can be done with DCC? Turnout control? Lighting inside buildings or other lighting?

I have 2 possible locations for a layout, first choice is about 13' x 3' or 4' - second choice is about 11' x 5'.

At least when I was in it before, there was soooo much more available for HO that it was tempting, but without a huge area, N-Scale seems more realistic to me.

Boy, I have forgotten so much stuff that I don't even know what all to ask... What is the minimum realistic radius for N-Scale curves? What about grades?

Overwhelmed in Birmingham...
Jeff

[SpaceMouse]

If you sold all you stuff, I'd say there would be no problem at all. There is a lot of stuff already DCC in N, and many more DCC ready.

How are your eyes and hands? That to me is the deciding factor. That and the fact that sound is just begining to come to N scale. I like sound.

[Adelie]

Welcome to the forums, Jeff, and back to the hobby.[#welcome]

I'm an N-scale modeler, myself. What era are you looking at modeling?

Sound is not yet big in N-scale, but it is coming quickly. Everything you mentioned is possible with DCC. Separate, directional front and rear lights are pretty standard. I'm toying with installing strobes on my locomotives (after I finally paint them and install the decoders). Turnout control, controlling any sort of lighting or animation is certainly possible, including lighting in passenger cars or cabooses. I'd use a separate booster from the one(s) you use for your rail for those applications, myself.

I asked "what era" because there are a number of locomotives that are DCC-ready to the point that the installation involves simply loosening the bolts that hold the frame together, replacing the light board with the decoder (that includes the headlights) and retightening the bolts.

For minimum realistic radius, that is a tough question. My suggestion would be to stick with 15" or better where possible, but sharper curves will work. I am a big fan of easements into curves, which involves a gradual transition between the straight that leads to the curve and the actual curve. I try to keep my grades to 2% or less.

Keep the questions coming, we have people out here capable of answering all of them.

[selector]

Hi, Jeff. Those two know what counts. if I could suggest, there is a wealth of info already in several clinics hosted by jfugate on the General Discussion page next door. Also, there is currently a host of folks lecturing another newby on the front or second page of that forum with all sorts of super advice.

http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=45247

Basically, you are doing the wise thing of spending time getting your feet wet before you jump in. Spacemouse and Adelie are among many here who know that there are few shortcuts in this hobby worth taking, and the rub is that you have to be pretty savvy to know which ones to take.

You are getting a bee under your hat, or you wouldn't be here. But, best grab a mug of tea, or a beer, and just start by reading. You can do searches for specific information above. Also, we will answer your direct questions if you ask.

Welcome.

[davekelly]

By the title of this thread it looked like you had fallen off the wagon and wanted to find someone to talk you out of your return to the hobby. Ain't gonna find help like that here!! Welcome back!!

[ereimer]

if you go with the 13 x 3 in HO you're going to have a switching layout with no continous running capability - no loop or oval of track . 13 x 4 has enough space for continous running , since 22 inches is about the minimun radius for HO . you can go as low as 18" if you're running short locos and cars . if one of the 13' sides is along a wall you're going to have trouble reaching across the whole layout though . 11 x 5 would be fine for HO , but again if it's up against a wall you'll have reach problems . if the 11 x 5 is around the walls on a narrow (1 foot to 1.5 feet) shelf it could work , you'd stand in the middle of the room to operate

i think we're still a few years away from sound in N , the room available for the speaker being the most limiting factor . some N scalers are getting around the problem by putting the sound decoder and speaker(s) in a dummy loco and always running MU'd with a silent loco with a motor and lights decoder in it . looks good , sounds good , but it doesn't give you the extra pulling power that 2 engines normally would

[Anonymous]

I came back after 30 years. I was former HO and had my doubts about "N". But Size of my room dictated "N". But Now I'm happy with it. I didn't go DCC yet because I got great buys on slightly used equipment that was all DC, though 3/4 of it are DCC ready. As far as sound I would go with an MRC Sound module or similar and use a 5 speaker computer speaker system for direction and Bass from the sub. Even Dr Bose would have a hard time getting realistic sound from "N". I think the future is small speakers in the engine for mids and highs, and Subwoofer for Bass which is non-directional.

You could put HO in the 15 x 3 space is you put a Dogbone at each end for the return loops. Thats what I did with "N". The scenery to train aspect in "N" is great and you can run long trains. But I can say my 44 year old Eyes could use something larger. I had to pay someone to install my KD- Couplers, I just couldn't do it. If your starting Fresh no matter which scale Go DCC, It's on my Christmas list :)

Welcome Dave

[trainfreek92]

Welcome back![8D] I am 13 but personaly i like N scale better if you have limited space pick N scale, If you have a big space there are more Ho products. Please visit my websit www.freewebs.com/trainguy12792

[BR60103]

Jeff:
I often make the suggestion that you find an HO layout for your space and build the N scale layout to the same dimensions. (modify track centers and such.) It'll give you wider curves and lower grades and look much more spacious.
I don't use DCC, but I recommend it for anyone starting with no legacy equipment. You can always add sound later, after all, you probably won't want sound in all 4 units of a diesel.

[Anonymous]

"I may be getting back in to model railroading - pls Help... "

I hear that AA is developing a chapter for model RR's.....

A local hobby store has a sign out front that says: "Still Cheaper than Therapy!."

Depending on you budget, I'd suggest either quickly finding a therapist, or buying some HO or N gear quickly.

Mark in Utah
(HO is the way to go!)

[Adelie]

QUOTE: Originally posted by mark_in_utah


A local hobby store has a sign out front that says: "Still Cheaper than Therapy!."

I'm definitely not convinced of that!