Walthers / Shinohara Turnout Problems!

[Anonymous]

A while back I purchased 27 Walthers (Shinohara) Code 83 turnouts. They are the DCC-ready turnouts (Insulfrog). Over the last while I've been laying roadbed, track, and installing the turnouts. So far so good. Last week I started to install my feeders and buss for the main line. I've been using an ohm meter to check polarity on the rails so I don't create a short by cross-connecting the feeders....

PROBLEMS!!! As soon as I started to ohm-out the feeders & main buss I found that the main line was shorted! I also found that my local line AND the switchyard were shorted! After scratching my head for a few minuted I finally found the problem:

Some of the Walthers turnouts were NOT insulated!!!!! They had failed to cut the rails and install the insulation filler. I found this on both straight and curved turnouts, on different sizes.

Pictures:



Anyone else see this?

For now I've cut the frog free, but I need to fill the gap with an insulation filler. Any suggestions from the guys that build their own turnouts??



Mark in Utah

[cacole]

I always put an insulated rail joiner on both rails that diverge from the frog and never rely on any manufacturer's claim that their turnouts are or are not insulated properly.

[Medina1128]

Cement a small piece of styrene in the gap using some CA (cyanoacrylate). When it's set, trim with a razor knife.

[Anonymous]

Very interesting....That Walthers Quality coming through!!! I agree with Medina. ACC some plastic in the gap.

[selector]

If you have an interest to try it, someone stated that you can even use the gel-type CA glue and file it to shape when it dries.

Personally, I'd see if I can live with the gap for a while. If it got especially noisy there, then I'd fill. Some might warn of the gap closing due to temps or humidity, but that is unikely for the size involved.

[rolleiman]

Are the points insulated as well?? that is, on the older turnouts, they have a solid metal throwbar.. Haven't bought any of the newer ones so unsure..

Jeff

http://www.rolleiman.com/trains/index.html

[8D]

[Anonymous]

At the points they have a plastic throwbar with a metal joint between the two points to help with durability.

I'm going to be buying some plastic sheets and some gel AC glue. Should be fairly easy to fill the slots.

So far I've got 5 tortoise switch machines mounted, and I just built the voltage regulator for the tortoise machines. I'll have 10.4 volts feeding them.

I'm using an old power supply from an HP color printer that died last year. 1.75 amps at 18 volts. I love it when it's cheap! The regulator was built using a one LM317 ($0.50), a heat sink pulled out of a dead 19" monitor a couple of years ago, 3 resistors and a diode. I think I MAY have $1.00 in it.

Now I've got to build the aluminum plates to mount the toggle switches and diodes. Instead of having one consolidated control panel I'm going to locate the control switches by each tunout along the fascia.

I'm getting close to the first run on the main line!

Mark in Utah