Coupler Question

[Anonymous]

Hey guys and gals,
I have gotten my first couple cars for my layout and I am encountering some coupler issues. I bought a dummy Athearn GP-40 and it had hook and horn instead of the knuckle couplers my cars had. Needless to say they wouldn't really connect right and I set off to figure out the HO Coupler situation. I did some searching on the forums and my LHS and everyone agreed that Kadee was the best so I bought a pack.
I got home with my new couplers and open the pack much to my surprise they had to be built [:0] Now I'm not much of a modeler however I love trains and will try my best to get things to work but this was beyond my capacity. I had little springs everywhere and I just wanted to spend some time running my trains. I honestly don't see myself spending loads of time switching and stuff so is there anything wrong with just using dummy knuckle couplers?? Do mechanical couplers come prebuilt? Like another brand? This is in no way a knock on Kadee it's just my personal preference.
Thanks for the input.

[dgwinup]

Hi, prizm76.

What you got is the less expensive version of the Kadee coupler that you have to assemble. Pre-assembled couplers are also available.

There is nothing wrong with using dummy knuckle couplers if you are not doing any switching. But I think you'll find the convenience of coupling a desirable feature sometime in the future.

Take your loco and a car or two down to your LHS. They will be able to point you in the right direction. That's the value of a LHS - they're always ready to assist you with hands-on service. Try getting THAT on eBay or online hobby stores!

(No, I'm not knocking the online experience! There is a place for both in the hobby. I just thinks it's a good idea to support your LHS whenever you can.)

Darrell, the quiet one...for now

[dehusman]

Just don't install the big centering spring.

Buy another brand that doesn't use springs.

I guess I find it hard to believe that installing a couple with at most 3 parts is that daunting (2 if the coupler spring is in place).

Dave H.

[TomDiehl]

You didn't say which Kadee coupler you bought. There's a lot of numbers that are used for different applications, basically dependant on the location of the coupler mounting area on the car or locomotive. The most basic one is the #5, and probably one of the simplest, just a 2 part box (draft gear), a flat bronze centering spring, and the coupler itself. The knuckle spring should already be installed, but there will be a couple extra in the package. I've been using them for more years than I'd like to admit and they're reliable and rugged. If they're mounted correctly, they'll give years of service without problems.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the opinions guys. The version I got was #38, the guy at my LHS looked it up and said those would work.

Dehusman,
You gotta remember that this is the first time I'm trying to put one of these couplers together. I work in the PC Help industry and some of the easiest tasks in computing can be like climbing a mountain for some people. Kinda the same for me with some of these things [:)].

[Medina1128]

Unless I'm mistaken, the #38 has the rounded draft gear box and a funny looking centering spring (not the flat bronze one). I've replaced those with #5s. The #5 couplers, when installed correctly will give years ot troublefree service. They used to have a little "poof" tube of powdered graphite that made an excellent lubricant.

[TomDiehl]

I agree with Medina, the #38 is really a poor choice for the LHS guys to suggest to a beginner on coupler replacement. I count 7 pieces for each one, and some can be a real SOB to install. I've stayed with the #5 (centered, medium shank) or the 40 series because 1) they're a lot simpler to assemble and install, only 4 pieces each, and 2) they're all metal making them much stronger. I've had the problem with longer trains uncoupling on me which I traced back to the coupler shank flexing and allowing the couplers to lift away from each other. Our train club has a 5 loop helix, 36 inch minimum radius at 2% grade. I also weight my cars to NMRA RP20.1 so a long train will put a lot of stress on the couplers, the metal ones hold up better. IIRC they're also a bit cheaper than the 20 or 30 series. This could save you some problems down the road if you get into a similar situation.

[Anonymous]

Maybe I'll try again with some #5's.

Are there any decent operating couplers that are pre-assembled?

Just out of curiosity, why do they come unassembled? Is it more for giving people the ability to customize or is it just a cost issue.

[Anonymous]

#5s, with the centering spring (litle copper coloured thing) and the box (a two part black plastic piece) are generally not assembled any further to account for a wide variety of applications.

The coupler itself is assembled, and can sometimes be dropped in as a replacement. E.g. Proto2000 magnetic couplers - they use the same centering spring and box, so those parts are not needed.

Sometimes just the coulper and centering spring are needed, as when replacing horn-hook types that come on Athern blue-box specials. The box is generally molded on in the right spot to just drop the other components in.

Sometimes you need all the parts if you are upgrading something like a Tyco boxcar, which usually had a truck mounted coupler. In that case, you would need to cut off the truck mounted coupler, and install the box, centering spring, and the coupler to complete the conversion.

Hope that clarifies things for you..!

Andrew

[dgwinup]

Kadee makes the #5 in an assembled version. Masonjar is correct, though, that some applications only need the parts.

Darrell, quiet...for now

[Medina1128]

I'm with masonjar on this. The only problem I've had with Athearn cars and Kadee couplers was that the centering spring height had to be trimmed so that the coupler moved freely in the Athearn draft box. A friend gave me some Tyco, Bachmann, Model Power cars that she had picked up at a yard sale for $5.00. After cutting the couplers off the trucks and installing Kadee couplers with their draft boxes, replacing the wheelsets with metal ones and a little weathering and detailing. I had some nice running and looking boxcars, reefers, etc.
Those molded on plastic steps and grabirons were cut off or sanded off. I made some of my own with the metal bristles from a wire brush. Drilled no. 80 holes and glued them into place using CA (cyanoacrylate aka Super Glue). Just because they're cheap trainset cars is no reason to toss them away. They also make railside storage buildings like the real railroads used.
I am gradually replacing all of the wheelsets on my rolling stock. This helps keep your rails cleaner. (Just look at the gunk that builds up on your plastic wheels!!) Dissimilar materials (plastic and nickel silver rail) coming into contact with each other generates static electricity, and with the current flowing through your rails, causes a process called electrolysis and it bonds the dust on your rails to your wheels. That's the gunk you see on your plastic wheels. And it's a pain in the 'kapukas' to clean ALL your wheels. And besides, metal wheels sound better "clickety-clacking" over your crossings and turnouts! [:)]
There have also been articles on using resistors across the axles on your rolling stock to make neat block detector circuits, which you can't do with plastic wheelsets.
Another coupler to explore are the McHenry's. They have short shank couplers that reduce the space between your F-unit passenger locomotives for a more prototypical appearance. Just my $1.89 worth.
Oh, and another bit of advice, buy yourself a coupler height gauge. If ALL of your couplers are at a standard height, it will help prevent those, "WHY WON'T THOSE ^%#$%@ CARS STAY COUPLED" screaming fits. I found out the hard way. That, along with an NMRA gauge for making sure your wheels are in gauge are invaluable. I have bought some higher priced models, and it drove me nuts when they kept derailing. Yep, you guessed it, the wheels were out of gauge.