decoders & sound for older locos

[Anonymous]

I have an ancient Varney 4-6-0, 2 IHC 4-6-0s, an old Mantua 0-6-0, and some newer Lifelike diesels. Would it be worthwhile to add sound when I install decoders? I plan on running DCC when I finally get around to building my layout, probably this winter. I can solder and have some knowledge of electronics. I have just never messed with decoders and the like before. Any input would be appreciated. FYI, I'm 65 but still have all my hair.[:D]

[MisterBeasley]

QUOTE: Originally posted by beemerboy

. FYI, I'm 65 but still have all my hair.[:D]

Wow, it must be really long by now! [:D]

Seriously, I'm in the same situation. I've bought a couple of new "engines," (actually a subway and a trolley,) but my fleet is 40-50 years old. Although I'll probably put a basic decoder in a few of these old friends, I'd hesitate before spending 80 bucks for a sound decoder to put in what I'd have to admit is a $5 yard-sale engine. Older engines had less efficient motors, and their current draw might exceed the capacity of most decoders. The only solutions are to buy a more expensive decoder, or to re-motor the locomotive.

Anyway, I'd at least wait until you've got a layout you can try these out on. Make sure those old steamers are really worth it. Also, decoder prices are coming down, and I suspect that sound will be considerably cheaper by the end of the year. The new ones will still be up there in price, but the older sound decoders will be selling at bargain prices.

[Anonymous]

You can get the MRC steam sound decoder for about $50, give or take a few dollars. The experience I have with MRC is 50/50 - had a steam decoder that went bad right away, have a diesel decoder that has been running pretty good. MRC replaced the steam decoder, no ?'s asked. I just haven't gotten around to putting it in anything yet.

The experience I have with steam loco manufacturers is with IHC. They are actually pretty easy to install. The hardest part about the whole thing for me was getting the new LED and the wiring up to the nose of the loco - the boiler area is all full of lead weight. But a man with some time and a dremel tool could easily route a little channel in the weight to make an easy job of running the wires. The nice thing about the IHC's is that the motors are "can" motors and are already isolated from the fram (at least mine was)...

[rrinker]

Keep in mind that the currently available sound decoders (since QSI doesn't sell theirs seperately, yet) do NOT work on DC, they are DCC only. The SOundtraxx ones in fact will be destroyed if put on DC. Their new Tsunami will work on both, when it finally is released.
The biggest problems with older locos is getting the motor isolated, and the current draw. There can be absolutely no contact between the motor and the track, or a DCC decoder will be destroyed. Most older locos (and not a few new ones) have one motor bru***ied tot he frame of the motor, which is thus tied to the loco frame, which picks up power from one rail, te other side usually has wipers on an insulated mount with a wire running to the other motor brush - or somes from the tender. It's not impossible to convert such locos, but it is a bit of work sometimes. Note that simply putting an insulating material between the motor and the frame, and using a nylon screw in place of the original metal one, MIGHT work - but it also might raise the motor enough to mess with the gear mesh.
The other issue is current draw. Test test correctly you need a stout power pack, and volt and amp meters. Witht he voltage at 12 volts, grab the motor or wheels to stop it from turning. Check the current. This is the stall current. DOn;t hold it too long or the motor could overheat. Most HO DCC decoders can handle from 1 to 2 amps. If your stalled motor draws 3 amps, it's not going to last long with an HO decoder that can do a max of 1.5 amps. (the decoder that is, the motor won't be harmed). A bigger model you can sometimes use a larger scale decoder with more capacity - but they aren't small. The only other alternative is to replace the old motor with a more modern and efficient motor.

--Randy

[Anonymous]

Thanx for the input, guys. I wasn't aware the motors had to be isolated for DCC. I was going to put a can motor in the Varney ten-wheeler anyway. I bought it off ebay b4 Xmas. The seller claimed it was a new kit in the box. It was in the box alright but built and pretty well worn. It doesn't run but I haven't had time to check it out completely. I've wanted a Varney for years so I would have bought it anyway. I think I will sit on the decoder situation for a awhile. Thanx again.

[rrinker]

Well if you put a can motor in it, your problems will be solved. You'll have isolated motor leads AND a motor that doesn't draw too much current.

--Randy