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laying 3' lengths on curves question

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laying 3' lengths on curves question
Posted by ndbprr on Sunday, March 24, 2024 2:42 PM

Been several years since I laid any track.  Plan to solder two 3' lengths together before laying 42" radius curves.  the question is movable rail to the outside or inside of both pieces or alternate one piece outside and one piece inside?

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Posted by richhotrain on Sunday, March 24, 2024 2:55 PM

I have used Atlas HO scale Code 83 flex track on all of my layouts. I solder three lengths of 39" pieces together with the movable rail to the outside of the curves.

I also use Ribbonrail Metal Track Alignment Gauges to form the curves.

Rich

Alton Junction

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Posted by MisterBeasley on Sunday, March 24, 2024 3:37 PM

The same for me.  I'm not sure if putting the sliding rail on the outside matters that much, but it just seems to work better.  I use curves down to 18 inch radius.

I also use Ribbon Rail gauges to monitor my curve radius.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

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Posted by ROBERT PETRICK on Sunday, March 24, 2024 5:12 PM

Peco flex track have little arrows molded into the underside of the plastic ties. Instructions say to point the arrows to inside of curve. The inside is the movable side. I suppose the theory is to not increase tie spacing artificially on the outside edge. Kinda ironic seeings how Peco ties are among the least prototypical in the model railroading industry.

Anyhow, maybe other manufacturers of other brands have similar guide arrows.

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Posted by FRRYKid on Monday, March 25, 2024 1:57 AM

ROBERT PETRICK

Peco flex track have little arrows molded into the underside of the plastic ties. Instructions say to point the arrows to inside of curve. The inside is the movable side. I suppose the theory is to not increase tie spacing artificially on the outside edge. 

I have never used Peco flex track (just Atlas and a piece of Model Power I had from a collection of stuff my Uncle gave me. It actually held the needed curve better anyway.) However everything I've ever read indicates to put the moveable rail on the inside as well. The reasons given above make sense to me.

"The only stupid question is the unasked question."
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Posted by riogrande5761 on Monday, March 25, 2024 6:50 AM

I've laid a lot of Atlas flex track and always have the sliding rail to the inside.  

As for Peco, I've laid about 60 pieces of code 83 flex and the ties on both side can be slid when curving.

Rio Grande.  The Action Road  - Focus 1977-1983

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Posted by rrebell on Monday, March 25, 2024 7:29 AM

Just a note to pre-curve your flex track to close to what you want and then straighten a couple of inches at the solder joints for soldering. This was neccisary to get smo curves and non kinked solder joint areas with the flex track I used which was Shinohara (which was also Walthers at the time).

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Posted by AEP528 on Monday, March 25, 2024 8:05 AM

Sliding rail on the inside. On a real railroad, the tie ends are closer together on the inside of the curve. Making the tie ends further apart on the outside of the curve would take the trackage out of the intended standard.

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Posted by richhotrain on Monday, March 25, 2024 8:42 AM

It really doesn't matter which side has the movable rail as long as you solder all of the joints in the curve to avoid kinks.

Rich

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Posted by Onewolf42 on Monday, March 25, 2024 10:08 AM

I solder together 2, 3, 4, or 5 pieces of Atlas c83 while straight and then move the assembly into position. I always place the moveable rail on the inside.

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Posted by York1 on Monday, March 25, 2024 10:53 AM

I use N scale.  I laid flex track curves with the moving rail both inside and outside, and I can't tell any difference.  Both ways work equally well.

York1 John       

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Posted by crossthedog on Monday, March 25, 2024 12:02 PM

I laid my Atlas c83 flex with the moving rail inside, but I don't know that it matters much. What was more important for me was, if the section I was laying was more than two pieces long, I had to start laying the track from the middle of the curve and work out toward both ends; if I started at one end, then the inside rail would have to move so far by the time I got to the third or fourth piece that the rail joint on the inside would move too far ahead of the one on the other rail, with the result that the joiner -- or my lumpy soldering jobs -- would squish against the ties. Even starting in the middle this would become an issue by the time I got to the ends, and so I was forced to remove more ties.

Also, yes, ALL joints that would be on the curve I made sure to solder while they were lying straight, so that kinking would not be an issue.

-Matt

Returning to model railroading after 40 years and taking unconscionable liberties with the SP&S, Northern Pacific and Great Northern roads in the '40s and '50s.

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Posted by riogrande5761 on Monday, March 25, 2024 1:29 PM

I solder together 2, 3, 4, or 5 pieces of Atlas c83 while straight and then move the assembly into position. I always place the moveable rail on the inside.

 

How do you keep the inside rail with the joiner from pushing into the ties when curving that many pieces all soldered together.  Surely the inside rail would progressively push further and further out, along with the joint and joiner.  I do mine one at a time and it's always worked well.  Like someone else said, I curve the track but leave the last bit straight, solder on another piece and continue around.

Rio Grande.  The Action Road  - Focus 1977-1983

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Posted by crossthedog on Monday, March 25, 2024 1:33 PM

riogrande5761
I curve the track but leave the last bit straight, solder on another piece and continue around.

That's the other way I've done it. Big Smile

Returning to model railroading after 40 years and taking unconscionable liberties with the SP&S, Northern Pacific and Great Northern roads in the '40s and '50s.

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Posted by kasskaboose on Monday, March 25, 2024 6:58 PM

I use code 83 Micro Engineering track.  While more expensive than Atlas, I like how it maintains curves easier.  I solder both inside and outside tracks with metal joiners before curving them.

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Posted by jjdamnit on Monday, March 25, 2024 7:23 PM

Hello All,

When I did this...

DIY Flex Track

The cut tie spacers were on the inside of the curve.

Hope this helps.

"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"

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Posted by DigitalGriffin on Monday, March 25, 2024 7:57 PM

Flip it over   one side will have solid plastic.  The other plastic connecting every other rail.  That's the side with the rail that will slide.   That side will be your inside curve 

 

2 important points: 

IF you are going to lay curves, solder the rail joints together before you bend it.

 

If 42 is a bare minimum because of something like brass, get some ribbon rail curve testers.  They have roadbed and metal inserts of various radius.  You want the metal inserts.  If will slide between your rails and you should be able to slide it and tack. Slide a little more and tack.  It's saved my tail once or twice around close clearance curves.

 

Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions

Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!

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Posted by Onewolf42 on Tuesday, March 26, 2024 6:54 AM

riogrande5761
 
I solder together 2, 3, 4, or 5 pieces of Atlas c83 while straight and then move the assembly into position. I always place the moveable rail on the inside.

 

How do you keep the inside rail with the joiner from pushing into the ties when curving that many pieces all soldered together.  Surely the inside rail would progressively push further and further out, along with the joint and joiner.  I do mine one at a time and it's always worked well.  Like someone else said, I curve the track but leave the last bit straight, solder on another piece and continue around.

 

My minimum curve is 40" and I remove 2 ties from each end of each section. This provides enough space for the inside ties to not bind at the joint/joiner.

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Posted by rrebell on Tuesday, March 26, 2024 7:57 AM

The way you fix extending rail is cut it, that is the reason you pre-curve to the extent you can.

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Posted by richhotrain on Monday, April 8, 2024 4:18 PM

richhotrain

I have used Atlas HO scale Code 83 flex track on all of my layouts. I solder three lengths of 39" pieces together with the movable rail to the outside of the curves.

I also use Ribbonrail Metal Track Alignment Gauges to form the curves.

Rich

When I wrote this reply recently, I misspoke when I said that I place the movable rail on the outside of the curve. I was doing some repair over the weekend, and I realized that I place the movable rail on the inside of the curve.

Rich

Alton Junction

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Posted by Mister Mikado on Monday, June 10, 2024 6:23 PM

just thought of a way to remember--

S-lidable rail goes to the S-maller radius

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Posted by riogrande5761 on Monday, June 10, 2024 7:02 PM

Nice to have the space for 40" minimum curves!  I also remove the outside two ties.

I'm at the point where I'm gluing ties back into the gaps.  Slow and tedius!

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Posted by richhotrain on Monday, June 10, 2024 9:10 PM

riogrande5761

Nice to have the space for 40" minimum curves!  I also remove the outside two ties.

I'm at the point where I'm gluing ties back into the gaps.  Slow and tedius!

 

A long time ago, one of the forum members taught me a great trick. Replace the Xacto knife #11 blade with a spade shaped blade and shave off the plastic spikes. Slide the replacement ties under the gap. The ballast will hold the ties firmly in place.

Rich

Alton Junction

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