I would like to know your thoughts on how many uncouplers to use. The delayed action of the Kadee magnets can allow you to cut down on the number of them that you use but the downside can be how far you are pushing cars in the delayed mode.
As an example you could put one uncoupler at the beginning of a yard ladder and push cars through the turnouts and onto each track. That gives you the maximum amount of storage on each track as you wouldn't need to worry about getting the cars past the uncoupler. On the other hand you might be pushing those cars a good distance if the ladder has many turnouts.
Another example would be an industry like a steel mill where track is going to different parts of the plant. You could use a few uncouplers in strategic spots or you could put one on the each track going to a different building.
Is there a best practice here?
Rick
I had one uncoupler magnet at the throat of a 6-track yard, which worked pretty well. I had a few magnets on single-track spurs. I quickly learned once I started replacing plastic wheelsets with metal that it was essential to keep my sidings really flat so that cars wouldn't run away when released, wouldn't run roll back and recouple, and would stay where you spotted them.
Eventually, I really preferred the flexibility of using a bamboo skewer for uncoupling anywhere rather than always doing the Kadee two-step when spotting cars.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Good points. When I laid out my main yard many years ago I had used a magnet on each track. Even with those I often use a skewer to uncouple.
I am working on a mill complex now and it will be difficult to reach some of the places that I will be spotting cars, so I need to use the magnets and I don't have a problem with that. I just need to figure out how many to use.
You did already solve one problem for me though. There is a spot where it is going to tough to get a magnet to work well since it would be under a turnout. Luckily that is near the edge and I can get to it with a skewer. I'll stop worrying about that location.
Thanks
I put Kadee in-track (visible) magnets on pretty-well all of my layout's staging tracks, but did most on-layout uncoupling using the RIX magnetic uncoupler...
However, with an upper level of the layout added above part of the original layout, some tracks are difficult to access without damaging scenery or structures....
I recently installed a pair of small rare-earth magnets in an industrial siding, and they work very nicely for uncoupling. The magnets are .314" (8mm) in diameter and .115" (3mm) thick. To install them in ballasted track, I simply remove the ballast from between two ties, then cut the webs from beneath the rails, allowing the ties to be slid aside. I then place a .200" wide spacer at the centre of the track, then use an "O" (letter-sized) drill bit to create two shallow holes abutting the spacer, in the plywood.I then place a small amount of Weldbond glue in the bottom of each hole, then install the magnets, each with the same polarity facing up.The ties are then slid back into place (helps to hold the magnets in place) then ballast is added, followed by an application of sprayed "wet" water, and some diluted white glue. I add a post, made from Evergreen .100" styrene rod, painted yellow with a black stripe, to denote the location of the magnets.
While the price has gone up since I last purchased some (it's now $6.99) for 10 magnets, they often go on sale for half that. One package will build five uncouplers.
Cheaper than Kadee's in-track or under-track magnets, and easy to install in track that's ballasted (or not), in a manner that makes them invisible...don't forget to add a marker post or other identifyer...otherwise, you may forget exactly where they're located.
Wayne