I bought a Static King from Woodland Scenics a couple months ago. I'm finally ready to put down some static grass, so tonight I got it out and tried to use it.
Dismal failure.
Since I've never done this before, I thought it would be best to try it out on a scrap board before using it on the layout. Good thing, too.
I got a short chunk of 2X4 out of the scrap wood bin, painted on a bit of diluted white glue (roughly 70% water), and applied some 2mm grass per the instructions that came with the applicator. The hopper was nowhere near even half full.
This is what I got:
As you can see, it's a mat of mostly-laying-down fibers. A few are standing up, but I don't think that's because of static electricity. More likely they just wedged between fibers that were laying there. There doesn't appear to be any static effect at all.
I used a "new" off-brand battery that's a few years old, but the applicator light came on like it's supposed to.
What I can think might be problems:
Anybody have experience with this particular applicator? Any idea what I might be doing wrong? Not really sure where to start, except for maybe buying a new Duracell and trying that.
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
Pruitt...Anybody have experience with this particular unit? Any idea what I might be doing wrong?....
I have a homemade static grass applicator, and I noticed that you made no mention of the "ground", which on mine is a 2 1/2" nail. I have used other metal items, depending on the area and the particular area in which the "grass" is to be applied. The link (scroll past the assembly process) shows it in place for my initial attempt, but I have had more success using other items and, of course, with more experience using it.Here are a couple views of areas done recently (a click on the photos will show an enlargement with better detail)...
Wayne
Thenks for the reply, Wayne.
I just used the "anchor" ( a four-legged heavy metal dome-shaped thing with an integral stud on the top where the clip is attached) and set two legs in the glue like the instructions said.
I'm thinking I might try a less-diluted glue and an upholstery pin for the ground...
I went back and tapped a small nail into another 2X4 and attached the grounding clip to that, spread some wood glue on the board and made sure it contacted the nail, and put a Duracell battery (not new - I used it in a radio throttle for a few hours) in the applicator. It worked a bit better, but still not what I was expecting (or seeing on some YouTube videos). I also tried a 12V, 200mA Wall wart - the light on the unit came on, but it didn't do anything. The instructions indicate 230mA for the adapter, so tomorrow I'll go find one of at least that capacity and try again.
Yeah, I use a wall wart to power mine, and the shock, when I accidentally try to move the ground before shutting off the power, is rather unpleasant. I can't say for certain that it makes my hair stand on end, though.
I used a t-pin as the grounding point on a home made flyswatter dispenser and WS glue. My results were the same as the OP's
Henry
COB Potomac & Northern
Shenandoah Valley
Did you use WS 2 mm static grass? That may be your problem. I bought that first, since it was the only static grass my LHS had. I was hoping for more of an "amber waves of grain" look, but instead got a more matter down, fuzzy look.
I found 4 and 6 mm grass at a train show, and ordered more online from Silflor. Using exactly the same technique and the same old battery in my Gras-Tech applicator, I suddenly got great results, exactly what I was hoping for.
These longer grasses aren't going to give short-cropped suburban lawns, but for longer grasses found elsewhere they're perfect. I think they look best with small areas of varied grass shades.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I haven't done this technique, but I have read of it. Seems vacuuming between successive applications helps, and is rather necessary, depending on the materials being used. Successive applications meaning, apply, vacuum, re-apply, all within a couple of minutes...before the glue begins to set up on the surface.
Thanks for all the suggestions, guys. They really helped.
MisterBeasley, I think you hit it on the head about the 2mm grass. It just mats down.
I did a half dozen experiements, and started getting better results when I switched to the 7mm grass. It actually stood up as I was applying it!
Here's one experiment:
I picked up some Mod Podge and fresh batteries today and tried a few more test samples this evening. They looked very promising, and I think I was getting the hang of the unit.
After the last one, I finally worked up the courage to try it on the layout. I loaded the applicator with 2 and 4mm grasses, speckled a small area with Mod Podge, and went to town. As I expected, almost all the 2mm laid flat, but some of the 4mm stood up. I went back and filled the applicator with 7mm grass and put it on the same area. I think it worked ok.
I did find out that it's hard to get the grass right next to the backdrop. It mostly falls farther forward.
Here's what the entire area looked like - most of the grass wound up on the track!
That was easy to deal with - my handheld vacuum cleaner with an old sock on the end of the hose cleaned it right up (sucked up about 3/4 of what I put down), and I saved it in a small container for reuse.
So here's what that small section looks like with the glue still wet:
Too much grass on the "road," but it looks promising. I think I need to do the road area first with just the 4mm grass, then maybe go back when the glue is dry and do the other parts.
I also need to add some weeds that stay green well into winter, and some general organic detritus (read "dead plant stuff") in there as well. I think the weeds should go in before the grass, but what about all the detritus? Before or after the grass? What do you all do?
Much better results. I'll have to get some taller stuff and give it a try.
How close is your grounding pin to the glue?
How close do you hold the applicator to the surface?
Is the static grass a good quality product?
Is the glue "proper" static grass glue?
With good quality glue, Noch grass, grounding pin in the glue, applicator held close to the glue and tapping the applicator with a screwdriver rather than shacking gave me this result with my latest application.
https://kaleyyard.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/conveyor-cover.jpg
Nice Trevor!
So, whats the right glue?
I bought an applicator last year, haven't tried it yet. I have a Grass Tech.
Mike.
My You Tube
Mark,
Another thing to try is misting the section of applied grass with a little water and running the applicator back over that section. It often times will lift more of the grass into the vertical.
Scott Sonntag
Never tried the water trick but got good results with white glue and others but I just sprinkle by hand the fibers and then use the homemade fly swatter type and get as close to the grass vas I can, with new batteries they stand right up.
I live in the UK so I use this
https://www.wwscenics.com/product/basing-glues/
I use off-brand white glue, thinned 1 part glue to 3 parts tap water. I usually skim coat the surface with Gypsolite, which gets washes of brown and green to give me a camouflage pattern to start on.
Once glue is set, I vacuum the loose pieces up and then go over the whole thing with an ordinary pocket comb. Then I wash the comb so I don't end up looking too freaky.
Pruitt,
In looking at your latest: My take is the gun isn't working right or you are holding it too far away. Try it with the beefier wall wart and get the screen right down within an inch of the surface. My home built grass gun will zap spiders at 30 feet. LOL!!!
The gun should be able to pull the fibers from side to side as you move it over the grass. It also looks like you need more density in your application - keep shaking the gun in the spot until you get a thicker clump of grass.
Try mixing colors together in a container before putting them in the applicator gun to get a more varied look.
Have fun,
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
I have used two types of grass applicators, the "tea strainer" type and the "potato masher" type. Both worked well. I use regular old white glue thinned 25-50% with water and a mix of various length and color grasses from 3 or 4 different makers . I have found that going back over the gras once you have applied it with the static applicator, not shaking it but making the grass stand up again helps.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
Anxious to try the applicator I got.
What I have tried, placing the glue, sprinkling some grass, and taking 2 small pieces of stryfoam, and quickly rubbing them to gether, to create a static charge, then passing the foam blocks over the grass.
I was a bit surprised by the results, but many pieces of grass came up and stuck to the foam blocks.
That's why I bought an applicator.
Thanks everyone for all the suggestions. I tried several of them, and they helped a lot! I'll try some more in the future.
I bought an appropriately hefty wall wart to power the applicator, and it made a huge difference! The grass stands up real nice when it goes down now, even the 2 and 4mm.
So I messed around with about an 8 inch section between the track and fascia tonight then posed a few train cars and a truck, and this is what I got:
I can see that I need to add more low dark green weeds (they are in there, but they're all hidden!), and a bit more of the shaved oregano I found that looks like dead organic materials littering the ground (can't see much of that either).
Thanks again for all the help everyone!
I just got a Static King as well, not too happy with the results. I thought that using an AC wall adaptor would give more power. Does anyone know if I need to use the Woodland Scenics propriatery adaptor, or can I use a standard that matches specifications? I tried a generic, but got no power at all. Thanks!
Work Hard! Train Hard!
I went to Batteries+ and bought a universal adapter with sufficient amperage rating to power the Static King. Works great!
Don't waste your time on the overpriced Woodland Scenics adapter. Get an adapter at the local store.
I was frustrated at first but as you continue to apply it you will fine tune your approach. I have N scale and have pretty much accepted the best look comes with the longer grass. Recommend damp paper towels over areas you want to keep grass off of. Also go over grass, pretty close to it, with small shop vac just as it sets to pull it vertical. Once you get the feel for the glue set up the vacuum method can really pull the grass vertical while it is fixed in place but not fully set.
Thanks, Mark - using direct power instead of batteries made a huge difference! If you get a generic adaptor, note that you may need to get a polarity reverser to make it work (even getting both of these from Amazon was cheaper than the Woodland Scenics adaptor).
RRRR - Rat Room Rail Roadyou may need to get a polarity reverser to make it work
Do you have any links?
Or you can just cut the wires to the plug and reverse them.
Lots of great information, I do have the Static King but haven't built up enough nerve to try it. I did come across this YouTube where he had shown had to make Tufts with a static gun that really caught my interest for my diorama building scenery. https://youtu.be/iFXgSky6JMU
Lynn
Present Layout progress
http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/p/290127/3372174.aspx#3372174
Most of the static things work, but what I found is Trying to do it the way in the instructions ussually dose not work as well as other ways. I personally just sprinkle the grass on and then zap it as close as I can get with the sieve just touching the tops of the grass after they stand up.
rrebell Most of the static things work, but what I found is Trying to do it the way in the instructions ussually dose not work as well as other ways. I personally just sprinkle the grass on and then zap it as close as I can get with the sieve just touching the tops of the grass after they stand up.
Thats a great tip and would work well in unison with doing it the regular way if there was enough glue down.