Before you ask, it's Rock Ridge Railroad.
As mentioned in a previous post, I've been building the kits I've been meaning to get to since before Brutus stabbed Caesar.
So I picked up the Muir Models Alameda Engine House and looked inside. The picture on the box looked like this:
Now right off the bat, I know I don't need an engine house that will hold two Big Boys end-to-end, so I know I'm going to cut it down some. Now I recently had a bad experience with a Muir Model where the guy who I got it from on eBay had built it and sent me only what was left when he quit 3/4 of the way through. So the first thing I did was stack all the bits of wood and count them.
They were all there, but the wood walls were in odd sections. When I read the instructions, I found out what I was supposed to do is tape them together from the back, then glue a brick print to the wood. I swear the model in the picture on the box looked like wood.
But it got worse--or so it seemed.
The print of the bricks was faded badly. But not evenly. It was perfectly new in places, but it was obviously been out in the sun for like 6 months with the instructions sitting on top of the bricks. Because the instructions are faded too. I could recreate just how they were laying if you want. The bricks were unusable even if I wanted to, and I wanted a wood engine house anyway.
So, I decided I'd use the big old windows and the back doors and everything else would be made of popsicle sticks and coffee stirrers. So, I drew up a plan. My engine house would be only 9 inches long and have only one vent instead of four. And 9 inches fits the longest engine I have by over an inch. Engines weren't that big in 1895.
I miss my drafting table.
Here's what I got done the first day. Doesn't look like much but the walls are square. And I ripped 50 popsicle sticks to size on my mini table saw. I couldn't figure out why MicroMark sold cutoff saws, but after trying to cut my popsicle studs with my Chomper, and having the razor blades bend and cut the wood long and at an angle, I can see the advantage.
I was going strong and was going to finish the framing the next day. Now if you are like me, while you are sitting around waiting for glue to dry, you're figuring how it will look on the layout. Now this engine house has big old doors and when it is lit up at night, you're going to see everything along the far wall. Except there's nothing. And there has to be something. And I figure if I'm going to detail that wall, it is better that I do it when I can reach it instead of trying to do it through the doors over my yard. So here's what I did the first day.
After holding the wall with one hand and using tweezers in the other hand to hold the styrene bits in place, and dabbing on the plastic solvent on with the brush in my mouth, I was all ready to air brush it to perfection. I even got an air brush spray booth for Christmas.
Trouble is, I couldn't adjust the pressure on my Portercable compressor. I used to be able to. And it drives nails like a big dog. So, I painted them all by hand. It took 3 coats to cover.
I have a new dedicated air brush compressor on my new Christmas list.
Now I just have to figure out what would look good on those shelves. I figure some STP cans, a Pensoil banner, and a Victorian nudie calendar should do the trick. Just what did they keep around in those days? and what was the floor? Was it dirt? Balast? Concrete with a lube pit? Inquiring minds who stay at Holiday Express want to know.
I'll try to keep you posted.
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
Oooooh, you have a treat in store. Look up the recent thread on 'scratch building brick walls' and see what is available in laser-etched brick in wood. You can use these as patterns for molded fascia brick if your budget doesn't permit...
OvermodOooooh, you have a treat in store. Look up the recent thread on 'scratch building brick walls' and see what is available in laser-etched brick in wood.
I must not have been clear. I wanted wood to begin with. This is a town built around the lumber industry and so naturally, the guy who owns the Rock Ridge RR would buy the lumber from himself, the owner of Rock Ridge Lumber. He is after all, Randall "Rock" Ridge.
His brother, Douglas "Duke" Ridge owns the silver mine and foundry. Lawrence Ridge, who has no "middle name" is currently trying to start a new saloon/whorehouse to compete with the Flattened Penny. He's not been very successful with his preveous grand schemes either.
Needs a poster advertising Lili von Shtupp appearing at the local saloon. And maybe a "Re-Elect William J. Le Petomane, Governor" poster.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker Needs a poster advertising Lili von Shtupp appearing at the local saloon. And maybe a "Re-Elect William J. Le Petomane, Governor" poster. --Randy
No, this is the venture by the finance guy who married Ridge sister Mantelle, the secret plan to make bricks out of compressed wood dust and chips to be set with 'renewable' mortar with low taxable carbon involvement (made with processing of wood). Touted as the greatest potential improvement since glulam, a technology I see the Ridges seem to have missed in general...
Modeled economically by just not painting the laser-etched sheets when you use them...
Be a shame if they ended up being bought out by GERN.
OvermodNo, this is the venture by the finance guy who married Ridge sister Mantelle, the secret plan to make bricks out of compressed wood dust and chips to be set with 'renewable' mortar with low taxable carbon involvement (made with processing of wood).
I just can't picture a tree-hugger in a logging family. They could get some of the fake wood made with recycled styrofoam. (Save your blue and pink scraps modelers.) At least that almost looks like wood.
rrinkerBe a shame if they ended up being bought out by GERN.
rrinker Be a shame if they ended up being bought out by GERN. --Randy
This one went right over my head. Even Professor Google couldn't help.
I made up decals for my old streamlined passenger cars. Governor William LePetomane is on the observation car. The dining car is Alferd Packer, the only American ever convicted of cannibalism.
Hi, Space Mouse! Long time no see!
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
SpaceMouseThis one went right over my head
SpaceMouse rrinker Be a shame if they ended up being bought out by GERN. --Randy This one went right over my head. Even Professor Google couldn't help.
rrinker
doctorwayneA little primer on GERN...
So now I know. LOL!
The majority of the GERN discussions take place on a different forum. Can't post links to them, per the rules here, but the color of your avatar's shirt references that other board.
GERN is habit forming.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Well, I got the details on the wall. It took two partial days. It was tedious work and I had to take a nap yesterday. I had a heck of a time getting photos with my phone. Either the colors were washed out or autofocus wanted to focus on a bird out the window.
You probably noticed that I didn't go back on the wall more than about a third of the way. When it's on the layout, you will have a limited viewing area, and those blank shelves won't be seen...hopefully.
This is more the angle from which you'll be seeing it. That is if you drive up to my house and are wearing your face mask and I have it on the layout.
Those are supposed to be different colored paint cans and look that way in RL. Also, for some reason, that generator is so washed out you can barely see it. Oh, well.
Great name for a railroad! My freight yard is named Rock Ridge Freight Yard, named after that famous movie, as you did! still building my railroad. Got any dimes??
nealknowsGot any dimes?? Add Quote to your Post
I found a tollbooth aong my stuff.
Actually, Rock Ridge was founded in 1890. The movie came much later.
Just like in real construction, the job goes faster in your mind than it does in real life. I only got the two end walls framed. I spent a good deal of the day making sure everything was square. I ended up using angle braces in the corners making sure they don't interfer with the roof joists and the soffits.
This is the front view of the framing. If you are wondering about the horizontal piece that looks like it will clothsline the smoke stack, that's just temporary until I can put the siding on.
This is the rear of the building. No one will ever see it except the train drivers and they won't care. I'm thinking putting some graffiti on there. Probably something about my wife or model railroaders. I didn't expect it, but I'm going to have to do some sanding to get the siding even.
Tomorrow I'll do the roof joists, soffits and facia. Probably. I'm learning not to make promises I can't keep.
Okay, I have a new snag. I ignorately asked what kind of floor a 1890's engine house would have and the answer was pretty much unamimous. End-cut, block wood floor.
Now, as much as I would love nothing better than to glue a trillion 1/16 x 1/16 blocks on end, I really want to get the track work done when the garage is cool enough to work in.
Any one of you modelers have an idea of how to create a block floor.
The best I can come up with so far is using popsickle stick end cut, Then sand them smooth and spray with dullcote. Then score the ends of the popsickle sticks to create square blocks and use a dark wash to highlight them. Add some grime and Voilà!.
Still, I"ll need to take out the detail work on my benches and redo that.
SpaceMouseOkay, I have a new snag. I ignorately asked what kind of floor a 1890's engine house would have and the answer was pretty much unamimous. End-cut, block wood floor.
SpaceMouse Any one of you modelers have an idea of how to create a block floor.
Hi Chip,
This is a great thread! Your project is very interesting.
As far as the floor goes, I have a couple of suggestions:
Instead of gluing hundreds of tiny blocks together, glue a bunch of longer sticks together into a bundle about 1/2" square or so, and then slice the bundle into floor 'slabs' however thick you can manage without them breaking apart. They will be much easier to install and align.
You mentioned using 1/16" square blocks. They would be close to scale, but I wonder if they need to be that small. I think you could get away with 1/8" blocks without anyone noticing that they are actually 1' wide in HO. I hope that suggestion doesn't offend your sensibilities.
You might also consider using the same sort of visual trick that you used with the shelves by just making the first few inches of the floor out of real wood, and then using photos to finish the rest of the floor.
Those are just off the top of my head. I may be out to lunch.
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
hon30critter I think you could get away with 1/8" blocks without anyone noticing that they are actually 1' wide in HO.
Popsickle sticks are 3/32" thick. I think I could get away with 9" squares.
Ed (gmpullman) showed me an n-scale brick sheet that looks great. Your eye makes the bricks into squares. Still, the engine house will be 30 inches from your eye.
SpaceMousePopsickle sticks are 3/32" thick. I think I could get away with 9" squares.
I agree. Nine inch squares would look fine. Popsicle sticks would also be much easier to glue into bundles if you were thinking of going that route. You wouldn't have to scribe a very deep line to form the 'squares'. A #11 blade would probably work fine.
I can't seem to find Ed's N scale brick sheet suggestion. Is it on another thread?
Hi again Chip,
I failed to mention why I find your engine house project to be so interesting. I am going to scratchbuild a similar structure for my own layout, so I am learning a lot from what you are doing. You have given me some good ideas about how to do the interior walls. One thing I didn't have a clue about was how the floors were done. I assumed that they would have used heavy planks but apparently that is not the case. I'm eager to see how you do your floor, and I won't apologise one little bit if I steal your methods!
I am considering using styrene for most of the structure, with actual wood only used where it really shows like the floor for instance. The styrene studs and beams can be textured with sandpaper. I priced the wood option and it seemed to be a little steep.
Anyhow, enough about my project. Let's get back to yours!
hon30critterI can't seem to find Ed's N scale brick sheet suggestion. Is it on another thread?
It's in the Prototype forum. You can't miss it.
I have a MicroMark table saw. Popsickle sticks and coffee stirrers, baby.
But I've textured styrene to look like wood. I came out great. Funny, I didn't go that route because of the cost. Would have been a lot easier though.
Did the rafters today. It was a heck of a job getting it right. There's 5 small pieces that have to be aligned just so. Every time you adjust one thing, two other pieces move. So what I did was glue the ceiling joist to a sheet of graph paper. The plans I roughly followed had what I thought was a 30 degree pitch, but it was just ballpark. I have a 30 degree jig for my chomper, and that will make things easier not only for the roofiing, but for the siding as well.
That said, I had to play with the height until the top joist and the rafter up lined up with 30 degrees. Every time I got a piece where I wanted it, I glued it down. Finally I had all five pieces down. And it looked good. I then glued wood on both sides of the pieces and made a jig. Took about 2 minutes apiece, and they all came out identical.
Then it was a matter of installing the soffits and ridge blocking. I know I could have gotten them straighter, but it really doesn't matter because it will be under cardboard soon. What I was more concerned with was getting the end two roof joist in line with the walls.
What you can't tell from the picture is the all of the joists are even with each other. I ran a ruler over the rafters and they are dead even. The end of the rafters are the same except for the one in the far back corner is 1/32 short-- even my wife won't see that.
I figure it is about time to put a base on it. I'm thinking .040 styrene. I didn't have to worry about it since I figure to have a dirt floor. Now I have to worry about getting lighting and track power through.
It looks smaller today. Maybe the siding blocking off the view...?
I said I was going to cut some .040 styrene for the base, but I don't seem to have any. So either I lost it, or I used it up. So the base will have to wait until I get some new plastic.
So nothing to do but the siding. I figured I'd better put the windows in first. So the instructions say to cut the two halves of each window off their sprue and glue the gaves together. Now who's kind of a lame idea was that? Just cast it as one piece.
As soon as you take the halves off the sprue they start acting like a slinky, turning this way and that. You get them together but now they look like they came out of a Lay's bag. That's what the wierd angular piece of siding is doing--keeping it from popping out while the glue dries. The other windows have pieces of wood from the inside holding them out.
I have a plan for tomorrow.
So once the windows were in I started the siding. I started on the back since I've never worked with coffee stirrers before. Good thing I did.
It 's really easy to get out of square if you start at the same end each time and pull the boards together from the other end. THe other problem is that a few of the boards are not quite as wide as the others. Above and below the windows, if they don't have the same thickness, then the first full piece is not going to match up. I've found the solution to pretty much all of it is checking it with your square any time it's possible.
But the biggest problem with the siding is that I had to lean over it to monitor everything. My back couldn't take it. Four asprin later it still hurts like the dickens.
I tried sitting back in my chair with the model on my lap resting against the table, but a wrong move and I had to repair some damage to the rafters.
That said, it might be slow going on the siding.
My wife looked at the engine house and said, "I like how you got the windows so square." I'm here to tell you that I did stuff like this for real at one point in my life, and it is way easier to get a good fit in RL than it is in a model. I had a tool for everything and our proceses were streamlined.
When I work on a model, I have a mini table saw that won't cut narrower than 3/32, a Chomper that likes to angle to the right when the wood gets too hard for its liking, and a handful of exacto knives that have #2, #11, and whatever the half inch wide chissel point is. Anyway, it has the same feel as playing Suduku on expert level.
I got to thinking about it and repairing a piece that breaks off here and there probably takes less time than whining about back pain, so I held the model on my lap against the table and didn't subject my back to as much stress. I only broke one ridge block and the center framing for the rear doors, but they were a snap to fix. I fixed them while I had a coffee stirrer clamped down so it would do what I required it to.
I also glued some plastic straws to run lighting in the future. I even had time to straighten a roof joist that had twisted. I could have worked around it, but I was there just staring at it waiting for the glue to dry.
So anyway, I finished siding the rear wall.
I'm hoping to get the front side windowed and sided tomorrow. My son is off so I don't have to drive him to work, which means I can work longer if feel like it.
Things went smoother today to say the least. If you go back and look at the progresss I made over the last two days, you'll see that I did today what I did in those previous two days. No, I didn't man up and work longer. I learned the tools and materials and knew what to expect. I didn't have to stop and figure things out.
A couple of days ago I told you I had a plan for the windows. Well, I put angle braces on all of them, pushed them in tight so they couldn't get out, then CA'd the snot out of them.
I still had to back brace one of them because it would pop out before the CA could dry.
Other than that, it was smooth sailing. I didn't even break anything today.
SOooooo.....I have a question for you guys. What color should I paint it? The roof is rolled felt and tar, so it's black. Rock Ridge (Randall, not the town) likes red and his engines are red and black. I already have a lot of gray and tan buildings.
What say you?