That looks awesome sir, wish i had the space for something like that. Anyways, i actually kind of reworked my track plan to eliminate the reverse loop and to add just a reverse Y that will hopefully do the same thing. Please take a look at what i have done and give me some input guys! Also, i need to figure out some how to get into where the turntable was originally supposed to be but im not sure how to accompolish this so i need some suggestions....Thanks everyone!
riogrande5761 Trainzman2435 LOL....riogrande5761, i actually not a noob but i have been away from the hobby for some years now. As for your comments, i agree. I can remember years ago when i was actually modelling HO scale and i had a large layout i was building that occupied a 2 car garage (Which i never got to finish"...The yard i had on it was way under sized and i can remember always wishing that i had the room to make it a lot larger....Thanks for openning my eyes, i will eventually get er filled up to capacity Ah, by your question about shortening the yard, it seemed you were green. But instead, very rusty! WD40 would help! LOL As the guy above said, try to avoid packing the yard full or switching will be difficult. Storage below is where you can fit extra trains and rolling stock. Here is my last layout in a 10x18' room under construction in HO scale. I installed 11 storage tracks to have plenty O capacity. You get the idea!
Trainzman2435 LOL....riogrande5761, i actually not a noob but i have been away from the hobby for some years now. As for your comments, i agree. I can remember years ago when i was actually modelling HO scale and i had a large layout i was building that occupied a 2 car garage (Which i never got to finish"...The yard i had on it was way under sized and i can remember always wishing that i had the room to make it a lot larger....Thanks for openning my eyes, i will eventually get er filled up to capacity
Ah, by your question about shortening the yard, it seemed you were green. But instead, very rusty! WD40 would help! LOL
As the guy above said, try to avoid packing the yard full or switching will be difficult. Storage below is where you can fit extra trains and rolling stock. Here is my last layout in a 10x18' room under construction in HO scale. I installed 11 storage tracks to have plenty O capacity.
You get the idea!
riogrande5761, i hear that on the WD-40 LOL....And your staging yard and work is awesome buddy....Very nice and inspiring also, Thanks!
Trainzman2435LOL....riogrande5761, i actually not a noob but i have been away from the hobby for some years now. As for your comments, i agree. I can remember years ago when i was actually modelling HO scale and i had a large layout i was building that occupied a 2 car garage (Which i never got to finish"...The yard i had on it was way under sized and i can remember always wishing that i had the room to make it a lot larger....Thanks for openning my eyes, i will eventually get er filled up to capacity
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
This question is for anyone that cares to give me some advice or suggestions....As Randy stated, i am considering removing the 60 degree crossing and elevating that rearward track on the north wall. Where would i need to begin my elevation at a 2% grade? If im not mistaking i think i need 16' in order to get up to the desired heigth but im not real good on elevations so any help would be appreciated....Thanks!
rrinker For 70's and 80's era, that means some long cars - will it really take that many to fill it up? Actually, what I would do with the yard is extend it lower, closer to the edge, so you have at least one arrival/departure track as well as the yard tracks - and you also have space for a switch lead to make it possible to actually do switching without blocking the main. See both Armstrong's Track Planning for Realistic Operation as well as Andy Sperandeo's book on yard design. Something else you could do. Ditch the reversing section. Have the engine services accessed off the yard ladder, and the mine on the upper right accessed off the long siding. Then instead of that 60 degree at grade crossing, you could have the track on the penninsula at a higher leve to cross over the lower track and then descend along the wall and around behind the roundhouse. --Randy
For 70's and 80's era, that means some long cars - will it really take that many to fill it up? Actually, what I would do with the yard is extend it lower, closer to the edge, so you have at least one arrival/departure track as well as the yard tracks - and you also have space for a switch lead to make it possible to actually do switching without blocking the main. See both Armstrong's Track Planning for Realistic Operation as well as Andy Sperandeo's book on yard design.
Something else you could do. Ditch the reversing section. Have the engine services accessed off the yard ladder, and the mine on the upper right accessed off the long siding. Then instead of that 60 degree at grade crossing, you could have the track on the penninsula at a higher leve to cross over the lower track and then descend along the wall and around behind the roundhouse.
--Randy
Randy, anyway you could maybe sketch what you are suggestion as far as track please? Thanks!
riogrande5761 carl425 the real "noob" part of the question is thinking yards are to be filled. Whether thinking yard should be full or not, it tends to happen without trying. Now spaking of storing, staging can be helpful in that regard. Does the track plan have provision for staging?
carl425 the real "noob" part of the question is thinking yards are to be filled.
Whether thinking yard should be full or not, it tends to happen without trying.
Now spaking of storing, staging can be helpful in that regard. Does the track plan have provision for staging?
riogrande5761, not as of yet but i plan a secong level to my current track plan with a helix that should serve as some staging!
riogrande5761 I wouldn't shorten the ladders. It's kind of like saying, gee, I'd like to get a big flat screen TV and then deciding, no ... the one I was going to buy was too big. Most say whatever size you get, you wish later you would have gotten bigger. I'd say it's kinda like that with a layout. You say it would take a ton of rolling stock to fill the yard. See ... this is how I know you are a noob, cause hobbyists who have been into trains for a long time know they are like Lay's potato chips. You keep buying more and more and more. And pretty soon that yard you thought that would be hard to fill is freaking overflowing and there is not enough room on the layout. That's my
I wouldn't shorten the ladders. It's kind of like saying, gee, I'd like to get a big flat screen TV and then deciding, no ... the one I was going to buy was too big. Most say whatever size you get, you wish later you would have gotten bigger. I'd say it's kinda like that with a layout.
You say it would take a ton of rolling stock to fill the yard. See ... this is how I know you are a noob, cause hobbyists who have been into trains for a long time know they are like Lay's potato chips. You keep buying more and more and more. And pretty soon that yard you thought that would be hard to fill is freaking overflowing and there is not enough room on the layout.
That's my
LOL....riogrande5761, i actually not a noob but i have been away from the hobby for some years now. As for your comments, i agree. I can remember years ago when i was actually modelling HO scale and i had a large layout i was building that occupied a 2 car garage (Which i never got to finish"...The yard i had on it was way under sized and i can remember always wishing that i had the room to make it a lot larger....Thanks for openning my eyes, i will eventually get er filled up to capacity!
carl425the real "noob" part of the question is thinking yards are to be filled.
riogrande5761You say it would take a ton of rolling stock to fill the yard. See ... this is how I know you are a noob, cause hobbyists who have been into trains for a long time know they are like Lay's potato chips.
While it is true that all collections (trains or otherwise) grow to exceed the space available to keep them, the real "noob" part of the question is thinking yards are to be filled. Working yards are for sorting cars, not storing them. The job of the yardmaster is impossible when the yard is full. You should plan on having the yard no more than half full at any time.
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riogrande5761and anyone else, i need a little advice here please. On my layout on the North ladder yard, i am considering shortening the length of it by 2' to 3'. After laying out my printed track templates i realized how long the ladder yard really is. It would take me a ton of rolling stock to fill it plus for my era i dont really plan on running a train that long. In N scale it just looks to long to me. Whats some pros and cons of shortening it as opposed to leaving it the length it currently is? Would you leave it the current 9' length or would you shorten it and use the extra room for something else? If so, what might be a good substitution for the extra several feet on the edge of the layout? Just looking at options so any comments or suggestions are as always "Welcome".....Thanks everyone!
riogrande5761 Probably the best choice if you want to keep things as so.ple as possible.
Probably the best choice if you want to keep things as so.ple as possible.
I agree sir....Thanks!
riogrande5761 Peco sells two lines of HO and N scale track. Electrofrog and Insulfrog. Electrofrog needs insulated rail joiners to prevent shorting at the bifurcating end. Advantage is you eliminate a dead spot that engines might stall on but wiring is a bit different. Insulfrog has a plastic frog and easier to wire.
Peco sells two lines of HO and N scale track. Electrofrog and Insulfrog.
Electrofrog needs insulated rail joiners to prevent shorting at the bifurcating end. Advantage is you eliminate a dead spot that engines might stall on but wiring is a bit different.
Insulfrog has a plastic frog and easier to wire.
Thank you sir....The information is much appreciated...I think i will go with the InsulFrog line for now.
Not an expert on turnouts but I believe the SLE in an electro frog and the SL is an insl frog. Others can verify this.
floridaflyer Peco N code 55 10 degree double slip SLE390F or SL390F. the SLE is available at modeltrainstuf for $50. not sure about the SL model
Peco N code 55 10 degree double slip SLE390F or SL390F. the SLE is available at modeltrainstuf for $50. not sure about the SL model
Thanks floridaflyer, can you tell me the difference between the 2 models?
RR_Mel I would suggest you go with a Peco Double Slip in your loop instead of two turnouts. It seems to me it would make a smoother operation. http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/80576.aspx Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Mel, could you please provide me with the correct Peco part number for the double slip that i need...For some reason all the ones i am finding say they are a single slip....Thank you sir!
riogrande5761 The most recent track plan looks pretty good to me. You can mix track codes. Just make sure the top and inside rail surfaces match evenly where they connect. Shimming may be needed. I've used old business cards for shimming. They will be covered up when you paint and ballast the track.
The most recent track plan looks pretty good to me. You can mix track codes. Just make sure the top and inside rail surfaces match evenly where they connect. Shimming may be needed. I've used old business cards for shimming. They will be covered up when you paint and ballast the track.
riogrande5761, thank you sir....Thats what i was looking for before i began laying any track....I will post progress pics as i go and as work allows lol....Thanks again!
Any more suggestions or comments? Anyone?
Tinplate Toddler You will have to shim the code 55 track to bring it up to the same height.
You will have to shim the code 55 track to bring it up to the same height.
Thank you sir for the information....Is mixing codes like this a common thing or is it not advised? If i get the code 55 shimmed correctly do you forsee any problems or would you advise that i not mix codes? Thanks again!
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RR_Mel You got it. As for N gauge I don’t know but the HO track is compatible. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Thanks Mel, i appreciate the info sir. One last thing, on my reverse loop, where would i isolate and should i go with the Digitraxx AR-1 or is there a better method for controlling the reversing loop?
RR_Mel Trainzman2435 RR_Mel I would suggest you go with a Peco Double Slip in your loop instead of two turnouts. It seems to me it would make a smoother operation. http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/80576.aspx Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps. Mel, exactly where do you mean sir? Thanks! Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Trainzman2435 RR_Mel I would suggest you go with a Peco Double Slip in your loop instead of two turnouts. It seems to me it would make a smoother operation. http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/11/t/80576.aspx Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps. Mel, exactly where do you mean sir? Thanks!
Mel, exactly where do you mean sir? Thanks!
Mel, like this sir? Also, i am currently using Atlas code 80 flex track...Will the Peco code 55 work with this? Thanks!