gary233 Do the Walthers NON DCC work on DCC layouts?
Do the Walthers NON DCC work on DCC layouts?
Gary, I added the PSX-AR to the turntable track leads and have no issues on my DCC layout. I bought the first Built-Up version.
ATLANTIC CENTRAL The Bachmann models of the 2-6-6-2 are about 95' scale feet long. Sheldon
The Bachmann models of the 2-6-6-2 are about 95' scale feet long.
Sheldon
So i need at least a 110’ Turntable. Thanks
I have the Walthers 110' model (without the DCC controller) and it works very well. Had one issue where it would forget where it was indexed between uses (I kill all layout power when I'm done) and contacted Walthers. They tell me it is an issue with the control board, gave me the option of sending it in, or performing the repair myself (which I chose) and are putting me on their list to send parts to once the repair boards come in. In the meantime, it has started remembering again, so go figure. Still, very happy with it. I had their 90' turntable from a kit prior to this. What a piece!
Mike
gmpullman richhotrain Surely you jest? I wish. Add this shop to the list of reasons why Brick & Mortar hobby shops are going the way of... Sears? Maybe I shouldn't say "most" people were chased away. Some of his friends were allowed to hang around. Regards, Ed
richhotrain Surely you jest?
I wish. Add this shop to the list of reasons why Brick & Mortar hobby shops are going the way of... Sears?
Maybe I shouldn't say "most" people were chased away. Some of his friends were allowed to hang around.
Regards, Ed
Rich
Alton Junction
richhotrainSurely you jest?
gmpullman Maybe Rob did get some product out. His price list was last updated five years ago. Most of the people that visited his store were chased away and told to never come back. Happy Modeling, Ed
Maybe Rob did get some product out. His price list was last updated five years ago.
Most of the people that visited his store were chased away and told to never come back.
Happy Modeling, Ed
relax, let go...let Walther’s do the heavy lifting. There are some good versions of their turntables out there.
Or you could drop the bucks on the CMR - also good.
Atlas can be modified if you are handy.
Of course you could scratch build (I don’t recommend this option – speaking from personal experience).
The Diamond scale TTs and parts are good but expect to wait a long time if you order from them (I waited 10 months for my order back in 2008 or so). Maybe purchase from a reseller or Ebay would work.
Your Mileage may vary,
Guy
see stuff at: the Willoughby Line Site
7j43kAnd your thoughts on the date on the bottom of THIS page?:
Yeah,
That goes back to Rob's Trains in Alliance, Ohio. I used to go there pretty often. I guess Larry Olsen bought what was left of Diamond Scale and thought he was going to continue the line, then sold it to Rob Sundberg, dba Rob's Trains. I never saw much activity to that end.
There are page updates all over the calendar — and all over the web. It's anybody's guess.
http://www.robstrains.com/
Click on "Product Lines" and you'll find Diamond Scale there. One of the folks here, HOn3Critter, was looking for some turntable parts a few years ago but he hit a dead end as I recall.
gmpullman 7j43k The reports of their death seem greatly exagerated. ...and wouldn't it be nice if all the orphaned web sites could be sent off to a separate internet bone-yard. Diamond_web by Edmund, on Flickr Good Luck, Ed
7j43k The reports of their death seem greatly exagerated.
...and wouldn't it be nice if all the orphaned web sites could be sent off to a separate internet bone-yard.
Diamond_web by Edmund, on Flickr
Good Luck, Ed
And your thoughts on the date on the bottom of THIS page?:
http://www.diamond-scale.com/orderinf.htm
I'll give them a call tomorrow, and see if anyone's home.
Ed
I confess that my own website hasn't been tinkered with in years. I don't see the need.
The RTR non DCC Walthers is great, havn't heard any bad things about it (except the one person as noted on this thread), however the DCC one I have heard of lots of problems, I only own the non DCC one though. As far as the one you build up yourself, it can be done but you kinda have to re-engineer the drive, not for the novice unless you plan on doing on 0-5-0 drive, then no problems, LOL!!!!
I have the Walthers non-DCC 90' turntable, and the Walthers DCC 130' turntable. When installed, both worked very well.
The 90' TT was removed and stored for over eight years, and I just installed it a month or so ago. It still works just fine.
The 130' TT was removed and stored about four years ago, and will not be unpacked and installed for probably another two years at least. I anticipate no problems with it as well.
Oh yeah, I also have the Walthers 90' turntable kit. After looking it over, I put the parts back in the box and decided not to waste my time. The thing appers to be a box of frustration just waiting to cause an apoplexy. If anyone wants it, send me a note.
Mark P.
Website: http://www.thecbandqinwyoming.comVideos: https://www.youtube.com/user/mabrunton
I have the first Walthers 90' built up Turntable. It's powered from a separate power supply, my MRC 9500. Since I use DCC, I put a DCC Specialties PSX-AR auto reverser in between the track buss leading to the turntable track and turntable. No issues. Yes, you need to keep it very clean, and clean it often.
7j43kThe reports of their death seem greatly exagerated.
gmpullman Trouble is, Diamond Scale is no longer produced.
Trouble is, Diamond Scale is no longer produced.
As noted earlier:
http://www.diamond-scale.com/products__turntables.htm
The reports of their death seem greatly exagerated.
rrinker I'm not sure oof the brand but it has a very simple motor with a rubber tire rubbing against a circle of plywood drive, coontrolled by an old handheld DC throttle.
That sounds like the old Bowser turntable. Brass shim stock for the pit wall, die-cast metal bridge sides screwed to a wood frame.
I built my layout in 1995 and installed a Diamond Scale 130 foot turntable. As first installed I used a Bodine gear reducer which worked out well but at times the rails were difficult to see for manual alignment.
Trouble is, Diamond Scale is no longer produced. It has a poured plaster pit wall and is very stable.
I bought a New York Railway Supply stepper motor control and drive. It works pretty well. There is a bit of backlash but not too much that it is a problem. There is a keypad control where I simply press the track number I want along with a # or * to tell the bridge to align the cab end or other end.
http://www.nyrs.com/
Just the other day I lifted the bridge out in order to place this "Safety First" lettering on the bridge. One nice feature of the Diamond Scale model is that the bridge rides on the pit rail and the bridge can be lifted out very easily for cleaning or repairs.
Q2_on_TT by Edmund, on Flickr
That's a Pennsy Q2 on the bridge with just a little room to spare.
Q2_on_TT5 by Edmund, on Flickr
You can see one of the four brass rollers under the cab. The pit rail carries one rail and the other is fed from the overhead wire to the arch.
Q_on_TT by Edmund, on Flickr
IMG_4964 by Edmund, on Flickr
Here's a look at the motor/gear reducer. I have a cam disk mounted to the shaft with a Microswitch that automatically reversed the bridge track power. There is a built-in track reversing circuit in the PTC-III but I already had a good working one before I installed the controller.
IMG_1230 by Edmund, on Flickr
Hope that helps, Ed
I have a 90' original indexed and built-up model marketed by Walthers beginning about late 2005 or later. I had no difficulty installing it, programming it for index points, and then operating it. I had to find my own suitable power supply locally, another $40.
These built-up indexed variety ARE sensitive do dirt, and Walthers duly notes this. It advises in their comprehensive instructions that the pit should be kept free of debris and vacuumed often. I did this, but was amazed to find the works at the end of the bridge quite occupied by grit, dust, pet hairs, body hairs, and bits of ground foam. I was quite surprised. I cleaned it out, an easy job, and the machine worked until I dismantled the layout on which it was placed back in early 2012. My intention, and hope, is to to use it again inside of a month or so.
gary233 anyone have the overall lenghth (Loco & Tender) of an HO 1-6-6-2? I’m trying to decide what size Turntable I need.
anyone have the overall lenghth (Loco & Tender) of an HO 1-6-6-2?
I’m trying to decide what size Turntable I need.
I have the current Walthers 130' TT and it works fine. I use the ACM module to power the individual stall tracks as they are selected to rotate the track to.
Early models had a glitch in the electronics and Walthers sent me a new electronics box that fits underneath. It now works perfect.
The early ACM modules needed reflashing, which Walthers did for me and it hasn't failed since being serviced. The early problem was that the firmware in the board selected a 90' table instead of a 130' and it quickly lost it's place while rotating.
I wouldn't hesitate buying the same package again if I needed another.
We have two turntables on the club layout. One is the original Walthers indexed one, and one is, well, I'm not sure oof the brand but it has a very simple motor with a rubber tire rubbing against a circle of plywood drive, coontrolled by an old handheld DC throttle.
They tell me the Walthers one once worked, but I've never been able to get it to move in all the time I've been there. It powers on, I've carefully cleaned out the pit, cleaned the contacts on the bridge post. It just doesn't seen to accept any commands from the control box.
Theother one - I have never seen it fail. Someone marked on the throttle knob where you should put it for a reasonable speed, and multiple members park their steam locos in the roundhouse it serves, and take them in and out to a train all the time. Being right near the edge of the layout, it's super easy to get the rails aligned even though there is absolutely no type of electrical or mechanical indexing. You just jog it into position like a real one.
Now, as much as I like doing electronics and so forth, I have decided that the turntable I want to put in my engine terminal for my new layout will be the latter type, simple motor drive, no indexing. Because it works. Every time. Maybe a bit moore sophisticated than having an old walkaround DC throttle hanging off the fascia, I will build the power supply in to the underside of the layout and just have a couple of toggles - high/low speed, and a center off momentary DPDT for cw/ccw direction. This will work more or less like a prototypical electrically driven turntable, run on the faster speed until you get close to the desired track, switch to low for final positioning, and use the spring return switch to jog the bridge into final alignment.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I've only had Atlas turntables. I had one as a kid with 30 degree indexing, and I bought a new one as an adult with 15 degree indexing, along with the Atlas roundhouse which matches it. These are small deck turntables, only 9 inches across in HO, fine for my smaller steam engines and early diesels, but not for larger locomotives.
I converted mine to a pit turntable. It was fun and ended up working very well, but it took quite a while and required every bit of my modeling skill.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
The only turntable I've had was the Wilson one. 16" across, as I recall, and not very scale-ish, at all.
No indexing. The big PITA was that the gear reduction for the drive was a stack of spur gears, so there was a horendous amount of backlash. Which meant, if you went past your track, you had to take up the backlash before the table would surprise you and move. No fun at all.
But the thing was pre-assembled in its steel pit. And reliable as a rock.
My intent, if I ever get another*, is to NOT have auto-indexing. That ain't how the real ones worked.
*Come to think of it, I DO have a turntable. It's a 134' Diamond Scale, and still in its box in the garage:
Someday..........
EMDSD40 Since you ask...this subject has beem discussed in depth in previous posts. I have voiced my displeasure and experience with Walther's 130 TT in other topics, so I will keep this brief. Too many known issues with electronic control modules, warped plastic base causing tracking issues, and on and on. Extreme care used in benchwork for installation and it would not index consistently. This total waste of money and time coupled with bad experiences relating to a number of their SD70ace locomotives has left a very bad taste when it comes to Walthers products. Had to completely disassemble one to track down electrical problems only to find cheap and flimsy wiring and contacts. Based on my experience, poor quality has crossed product lines and I refuse to purchase any more of their offerings. Hopefully others have a positive experience with their products.
Since you ask...this subject has beem discussed in depth in previous posts. I have voiced my displeasure and experience with Walther's 130 TT in other topics, so I will keep this brief. Too many known issues with electronic control modules, warped plastic base causing tracking issues, and on and on. Extreme care used in benchwork for installation and it would not index consistently. This total waste of money and time coupled with bad experiences relating to a number of their SD70ace locomotives has left a very bad taste when it comes to Walthers products. Had to completely disassemble one to track down electrical problems only to find cheap and flimsy wiring and contacts. Based on my experience, poor quality has crossed product lines and I refuse to purchase any more of their offerings. Hopefully others have a positive experience with their products.
A few thoughts:
Buy or don't buy whatever suits you, but understand this: In todays world of contract over seas manufacturing, judging all the products from one company on even two or three bad experiances is likely going to exclude you from a lot of good stuff.
Personally, I am niether a Walthers fan or a Walthers basher. Their more recent products do not have a large representation on my layout.
I know lots of people with Walthers turntables that work fine, I know some have had a few issues.
Be it Walthers, Athearn, Bachmann, Bowser or whoever, one is likely better off to judge each PRODUCT on its merits, getting feedback from other modelers before purchase, rather than pre-judge based on brand.
For example, I have lots of Bachmann Spectrum steam, which has given great service. Yet there are a number of other Bachmann products I would skip over rather quickly........
You mileage may vary......
gary233 Hi all, For those of you when have turntables I would like to hear what you have, ease of set-up, performance, maintenance and overall satisfaction. I saw a YouTube video on the Walthers 130’ and it seemed that it waS EXTREMELY sensitive to ANY dirt getting onto the rail. Each time it encountered any obstruction it required re-programming. Your experiences?
Hi all,
For those of you when have turntables I would like to hear what you have, ease of set-up, performance, maintenance and overall satisfaction.
I saw a YouTube video on the Walthers 130’ and it seemed that it waS EXTREMELY sensitive to ANY dirt getting onto the rail. Each time it encountered any obstruction it required re-programming.
Your experiences?
In terms of sensitivity, the only problem that I have encountered is stray ballast that finds its way onto the gear track that runs around the perimeter of the pit. You must occasionally vacuum the pit to remove such obstacles. Otherwise, that stray ballast will become lodged between the gear teeth on the underside of the bridge, and this can result in a complete stoppage of the bridge track. It is no fun disassembling the bridge gears to remove such obstacles.
The Walthers 130' turntable has a programmable indexing feature that permits the bridge track to stop at specified points such as roundhouse stalls and other associated tracks. I don't use the feature but, rather, operate the turntable manually, as Sheldon described in his reply.
Well, my experiance may not be what you want to hear.
My turntable is built from a kit, a craftsman kit made of acrylic sheet, from CMR.
http://www.custommodelrailroads.com/turntables-3.aspx
It does not have indexing, just like the real ones, you must line it up by eye with your skill on the control switch, not that hard to do if you have a good view. Mine is close to the layout edge.
It works very well.