I removed a part of the foam mountain backdrop and replaced it with a piece of hardboard cut like mountains.
It will be painted to give a nice 3D effect.
Swedish Custom painter and model maker. My Website:
My Railroad
My Youtube:
Graff´s channel
I've started with the plaster work on the mountains.
I use a mix of WS moulds, home made latex moulds and alu foil.
The plaster is regular plaster of Paris.
I prefer to cast in situ. I wait until the plaster shows small wrinkles in the mould before placing it on the mountain.
I carve the surface with WS rock carving tools.
May need some more plaster in places.
I've started on the landscaping.
I made a stone wall and sculpted a plaster rock along the embankment.
The road is sculptamold for now.
It's real fun to get some nature on the layout.
Some more progress on my layout.
The tracks are getting ready to be ballasted.
I'll use crushed chamotte that I'll stain to the colors I like.
Just have to do some painting first.... And add feeder wires where needed.
https://youtu.be/JYtm-BeeMx4
Hi Graffen,
Nice track work. My first impression was that it looked messy. It took me a minute to understand what I was looking at until I realized that it is dual gauge. I apologise for thinking that anything that you would do might be messy!
Dave
I'm just a dude with a bad back having a lot of fun with model trains, and finally building a layout!
I made a new updated trackplan:
I've made some more progress on the track laying.
The tracks around Holy Cross jct are getting there.... (yeah, the town is named to get some plus points with my resident priest... )
Nice! Looking forward to more...
The track Laying has begun.
I made the first stretch today.
The HO/HOn3 double gauge trackage is a bit tricky to do. But now that I've spiked the first pieces, it feels as I'm on the right track.
Now I have to drill the holes for the turnout motors so I can install them as well. It's really fun!
That building looks magnificent. Very well done.
.
I love Vallejo paints. The wood finishing set is excellent.
-Kevin
Living the dream.
Today I stained some ties.
The HOn3 crossties and turnout ties, and the HO/HOn3 dual gauge ties.
I bought an extra bag of turnout ties as it's easy to cut them to regular crosstie length if needed.
I used water based stain mixed with alcohol and some ink.
It dried really quick.
Made some progress on the layout today.
Started the track laying! I decided to begin with the dual gauge trackwork before I do the narrow gauge tracks.
I couldn't use standard gauge cross ties as they're too thick, and I couldn't use narrow gauge ones, as they're too short... I then decided to use narrow gauge turnout ties and cut them to standard gauge length...
It'll be nice to finish the dual gauge tracks as they are very time consuming.
The narrow gauge will be a piece of cake after this. :D
I
Sheetrock... We all love to do some sheetrock and mud and sanding, and mud and sanding....
Yes of course! As a matter of fact, my wife and I hung our first five 4x8' sheets of sheetrock/drywall last Sunday in the main basement room. We've been in the house since late Nov 2018 and other projects have taken precident but now have permit to finish basement and progress is moving forward.
Yours is looking great and you are an artist. I'm going to need to figure out some back drops for my Colorado/Utah border Rio Grande layout circa 1979
Rio Grande. The Action Road - Focus 1977-1983
GraffenI'm very happy with the result.
Hi Graff,
You should be happy! Excellent work as usual.
Thomas Yorke's kit of the "Pool Hall and Bordello" in HO scale.
Finished!
Front
Primed the castings with grey and started the stone color.
I paint the stones with a light ochre.
The floor:
I used the Vallejo wood paint set.
Looks nice when dry.
The fronts are very time consuming to build, as they need to be built to fit.
Interior wall for the stair well.
Most of the building assembled.
The rooms are lit up with SMD LEDs
Rear:
Side:
Roof details:
Fuel tank;
Interior:
Details:
I'm very happy with the result.
Sorry, I missed your question...
The clear plastic was sprayed with grey spray primer. Then I painted each stone with various beige and grey colors. The mortar is grey clay pulverized and mixed with PVA glue.
The doors are a mix of blotching and stippling.
Beautiful work on that brewery, I lover the clearly visible aging, but it is clear that the building is functional. I have a couple of questions.
How did you do the stonework - I am assuming that the brickwork came as a clear plastic, that you the colored? How was that done?
What is the technique used for the doors? I have see a technique that involved "blotching" with a sponge before, is that what you did here?
Keep it going, can't wait to see the finished building.
More nice work Graff!
Nice stonework, love the rusted roof, how was that done?
Some more construction pics of the brewery.
The door frames cut out from cardboard:
The painted doors:
Primed windows:
Painted windows with green acrylics:
Real glass cut to size with a diamond scribe:
The buildings foundation:
Loading docks:
The water tank:
The boiler house with the PVC stone sheet that is glued with contact cement:
I used Tamiya putty on the corners:
Painted:
Roof with cardboard frames to make it removable:
Corrugated sheet cut to size:
Mortar made with pulverized clay mixed with PVA and water and then wiped away from the top of the stones:
Getting there:
Hi Graff:
That is coming along very nicely! Thanks for explaining your painting techniques.
There has been some progress on the brewery.
Content of the kit.
Some of the tools I use.
I started by measuring the parts and identifying them with the numbers from the manual.
I add woodgrain with a wire brush.
I cut out the windows with a xacto chisel blade, then I stained the areas which were to be glued together.
I add nail holes with a Trumpeter rivet wheel.
As you see, the wall lines up on the right side and the left is offset.
After staining the walls with india ink and alcohol, I paint the peeled off paint.
I use turps on a brush and while the surface is wet, I apply the acrylic paint which then pearls up in places to look like peeled off paint when dry.
I used a light grey green paint.
Painted walls.
The trim was painted green.
I glued the walls together.
The floor is glued in place. I added a hole for the stairwell.
Support beams under the floor.
This is as far as I have gotten now.
Need lots of details on this one as I got this kit to build also.
Latest project to be started.
Bret's Brewery from Campbell.
This will be a nice addition to the layout.
That is really great work.
I am wishing my own layout room was not still a year away.
Please keep the updates coming.
More power to everyone who can do that. The first one I tried actually came out pretty nice. Took a while, but totally bump free. Great, I thought, that's the very first, it should only get easier the more I try to build. Well, after 5 failed ones, I finally had another decent set of points. Never did get another good set of points, even with the Fast Tracks tools. So I just put it all away and quietly went back to buying Atlas. Still don't know what I kept doing wrong, it looks so darn easy in the videos.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Built a # 6 left-hand turnout in HOn3 with 26" radius.
They are starting to go together easy now. This one took not more than an hour to make.
I use a drawn template to get the radius right. Otherwise it's just a matter of using the NMRA gauge and Railway Engineering roller gauges.
The frog area has a narrower gauge to make the rolling stock roll better through the frog.
I use the flangeway gauge to get it right.
Made a bit more on my three-way stub turnout in HOn3. One drawbar is made, now it's two more to hold the track gauge to make as well. It's a little tricky to make them because the rails must be able to move individually. I soldered micro track spikes to hold the rails in place.