Question Using Atlas Turnouts

[sfcouple]

I'm starting another layout, probably my last as I'm at the ripe ol' age of 70 

It's going to be a logging layout with a second level, so far all my track has been hand laid and I'm constructing all my turnouts using Fast Tracks.  But......

I'll have two turnouts on the second level and they need to be very robust as it will be extremely difficult getting to them after the layout is completed.  I also do not want a tortoise switch machine hanging below the second level so it was thought I'd try an Atlas Code 83 #4 Custom Line Turnout with an underboard switch machine which has a very low profile.  Now, it has been over 40 years since I've used an Atlas turnout and am wondering if this turnout has a metal frog that can be powered?

In addition, I'm thinking of getting an Atlas Deluxe Under Table Switch Machine Part no: 150-66.  I'm wondering if this device (150-66) can be used to throw the points on the Atlas Turnout as well as providing appropriate power to the frog?----and that's assuming the frog on the above turnout is metal?

I'll be able to work on the second level at my workbench so having access for the installation will not be a problem.  

I've looked at Proto 87 for above board switch machines, I think they are called a "Mole," but the installation and construction looks cumbersome, as well as the need to purchase a 'frog juicer.'  

Any help or ideas about the Atlas products above will be appreciated....

Thanks, Wayne

From the Big Sky Country in Montana 

 

[rrinker]

 The frogs on the Custom Line turnouts are metal. The 150-66 delux under-table machine includes contacts to switch the power to the frogs, though if you would like slow operation instead of heavy thunks, there is also the Tortoise switch machine, which also mounts under the table and has switch contacts to power the frog.

 You won't be able to solder to the frog though, it's blackened and also some sort of pot metal. The under table machine from Atlas uses to come with scres and a bus bar to connect to the hole in the side of the frog, but nowhere can I find it saying they still do. I just use some brass 1-72 screws. I didn;t even bother tapping the hole, if you do this at the bench before installing the turnout you cna lay it upside down and gently run the screw in from the bottom - don't apply pressure to the frog or the whole casting can pop right off. Use a short screw, and I drive it in until the threads are flush on the top side. A spot of black paint on the shiny visible end of the brass screw hides it, and now that the brass screw is there, it's easy to solder a wire on. Just dig out a little space in the roadbed for the screw to sit in so the turnout sits flush and you're all done.

 I wired every single one of my #4 frogs. And never connected them - I had no problem with any of my locos running over the dead frogs even at slow speed. Main key I think was that I had power feeds at all 3 legs of the turnout, so good electrical contact on any rails of the turnout did not depend on internal wiring.

                         --Randy

 

[sfcouple]

Randy, that is some great information.  You really helped with the idea of using a brass screw for electrical contact on the frog.  

Thanks for your help and information, it has been very useful,

Wayne

[NP01]

Whoa! I never knew! I just laid 25 customline turnouts and I wish I knew!