Working on my first module. Have the layout just about worked out. Need to add another foot to the left and extend the track there. Hoping to get the frame built this weekend.
Tim
Looks exciting. I truly mean it. I'm the type that likes to see it laid out. I feel actually seeing it, helps me visualize even newer plans and ideas. I'm sure there's more to this, care to share? Someone once said to me, What is it you set out to do, and what means will you use to acheive it.
Thanks for sharing! Keep going! (that 0-4-0 Feline type appears to be out of scale, however)
-Don (Random stuff, mostly about trains - what else? http://blerfblog.blogspot.com/)
Thanks! Looking to use it as a switching puzzle ultimately, but will be able to connect to a modular layout I'm planning for my house. I don't have room for a permanent layout and love the idea of modules to 1) be able to build quickly, highly detailed and 2) change up frequently to keep things fun and fresh.
Haha! Slightly out of scale. But to scale for the cat-zilla she tends to be.
oltmannd Thanks for sharing! Keep going! (that 0-4-0 Feline type appears to be out of scale, however)
The switch lead and runaround seem pretty short compared to the length of the tail tracks.
RT
I finally had to make my trainroom feline switcher proof. I'd find cat hair in the axles, and my trees kept getting "pruned". A little cayenne pepper fixed the latter.
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
RT Trains The switch lead and runaround seem pretty short compared to the length of the tail tracks. RT
If the turnout at the center is a double slip switch, you could eliminate the runaround track, altogether. You don't really need a runaround to pass a switch, do you? You could move the turnout at the upper right, attach it to the turnout on the left end of the runaround and add a two track ladder.
Good start so far... Just make sure you don't use kitty litter for your track ballast
Dan Stokes
My other car is a tunnel motor
Hahaha! At least not the clumping type! ;-)
stokesda Good start so far... Just make sure you don't use kitty litter for your track ballast
You still need a runaround to switch the spur in the opposite direction. And the lead is definitely too short to be practical.
I've extended the left side a foot. Where exactly do I need another runaround? Can you draw it in? Always looking for suggestions.
Thanks,
wildecoupeWhere exactly do I need another runaround? Can you draw it in?
I would need to redraw from scratch.
Try this site
http://www.carendt.com/micro-layout-design-gallery/
That site is what inspired this layout. It seems to switch ok. Ran some tests on it, but not a lot to see how well it works.
Going with the layout as shown below. Just replaced one of the turnouts with a #6 to make the runaround smoother.
Got the frame build and the layout fitted to the frame. Need to create some rolling hills with some carved foam then cover with my homemade plaster cloth (used dryer sheets covered with joint compound).
I am working on my first module as well except mine is 26" x 84" in HO, built to free-mo standards. Modular layouts, especially those built to free-mo are the way to go. If you face the possibility of moving or if you want to flip your module position or face, it's pretty easy. I can't imagine taking a chainsaw to a basement empire and tossing most of it.
The biggest reason why I went with modular was for ease of storage and disassembly.
Any shots of your module?
I can post a few tonight, I'm working on track until it's bombproof.
I am protolancing Kandiyohi, MN on the Great Northern in the 1950's and 1960's with the ability to change era to the Burlington Northern and BNSF at a future time. It will be double tracked before it went to CTC in the early 1960's to allow for more track space. All of the structures will be able to swap via baseplates attached to the benchwork.
In the future I want to model the Willmar, MN yard, but I don't have space for that yet.
Here's my second module. It's an Inglenook. Just wanted something simple to work out my first scenicking attempts. I've covered the foam with used dryer sheets and thinned joint compound. Not crazy about how the overlaps and bumps/ridges look. Next module I'll be sure to smooth it out better.
Used Woodland Scenics foam roadbed. Glued it down with Loctite Seal and Bond. Dries clear. Water cleanup. Little tacky when dry, but not so much that it'll hold on to anything.
Used Caboose Industries ground throws on modified Atlas snap switches. I've ground down the edges of the points and indented the rails so things roll through smoothly without snags.
I cut Bachmann EZ track in half and have them at either end. Gorilla glued in place. I had to notch the ends to get the tops flush. I'll use these on all of my modules to allow them to connect easily. Almost like a T-Trak module.
I started laying down some dirt that has been sifted. Going to put down a thicker layer.
I have a DIY static grass applicator put together and some grass. Once I get the rest covered in dirt, I'll apply the grass.