Old Fat Robert Will somebody out there in hyperspace define "gleaming" for me?
Will somebody out there in hyperspace define "gleaming" for me?
I was curious too--found it in this thread: http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/221146/2443425.aspx#2443425
Essentially polishing the rail before final polishing and buffing. Surprised no one uses lapping compound.
Gleamed my track in 2006, run masonite pads to pick up oxidation and haven't cleaned my track since.
eaglescoutThere are many threads on here about gleaming. If you do it right there is nothing better.
Rich
Alton Junction
Thanks, Bob, for that further explanation. I am going to try it.
JimT any thought to whether Brasso would do the same as Flitz? I have a can of the old formula Brasso (I understand the new stuff is worthless), how would that work on nickel silver? I have used TPS electrical contact cleaner in the past, but this has gotten me interested in trying metal polish with my new layout.
any thought to whether Brasso would do the same as Flitz? I have a can of the old formula Brasso (I understand the new stuff is worthless), how would that work on nickel silver?
I have used TPS electrical contact cleaner in the past, but this has gotten me interested in trying metal polish with my new layout.
JimT
I have found that Brasso seemed to leave an OILY residue on the rails which would collect more dirt!
I have always recommended against using Brasso.
Some tried it and found that it did leave a slightly oily finish.
And I used way too much when I was in the Army - so I never liked the stuff once I left! ;-)
BOB H - Clarion, PA
richhotrain Bob, that sounds too easy. How does it compare to gleaming? Rich
Bob, that sounds too easy.
How does it compare to gleaming?
If one remembers that the last part of the Gleaming process is using Metal Polish.
I used the Metal Polish method many years before the Gleaming process was brought up.
Initially - I was just going to run the layout until I needed to reclean the rails as I expected the Metal Polish to only last a few months.
That was back in 2003 and it is now 10 plus years later and I am STILL waiting for the POLISH to fail.
I am happy that it is still working!
Sometimes it is the SIMPLE Things that work - I guess MOST people just expect things have to be complicated (or COST a bunch) to work properly.
I really don't care what everyone does - it works for me and I thought more would try this method to stop the needless repeately having to clean their track - which includes using any DRAGS on the rails during OPs.
But - as I stated before - they MUST like to do it (track cleaning) as they continue to keep doing the same thing again and again - EXPECTING different results!
I always thought that was the defination of insanity! ;-)
And if some don't believe me - stop by some time and we can run a few trains! ;-)
richhotrain Bob, can you remind us of how to do the Metal Polish application? Rich
Bob, can you remind us of how to do the Metal Polish application?
Rich & Others
I use Mothers Mag Wheel Polish (but any other type of metal or Silver polish will work)!
I place a very thin coating on a piece of HO cork and just rub it on the rails for about 5 to 10 feet.
You can feel the cork getting dry as it will begin to drag a lot more. I then just add another thin coat to the cork and then do another 5 to 10 feet of track.
I then take a fresh piece of HO cork and buff the previously polished rails.
You are done with this section!
IF! you find you are getting polish down on the sides of the rails - YOU have TOO much polish on the cork!
Others have used small pieces of Homasote to rub the rails.
If you have heavy accumulations of dirt or paint, scenery glue on the rails - you need to use a Track Block or worst case super fine sandpaper to remove this accumulation.
It is advised to immediately then Metal Polish the rails as the Track Block or sandpaper leaves minute scratches on the rails heads and these scratches will catch and hold the dirt.
The Metal Polish will fill these minute scratches and keep the dirt out and off the rails.
I used the Metal Polish on my layout back in late 2003 and have NOT had to clean my track since!
While some seem to love to run their cleaning cars - I don't and having over 4000 feet of track I would spend way more time just cleaning the track every 2 weeks to get ready for my twice monthly OPs Sessions than it would be worth if I had to run the dumb cleaning cars and drags.
How does one get back into the ends of every industrial siding with a cleaning car?????
I used the Metal Polish method shown in the January 2003 issue of Model Railroader.
Most everyone in my area uses the same method and we love NOT haivng to waste valuable time cleaning the track - when we can be running and operating our trains.
Our local Club's HO layout uses the same method andthey love it.
I have never seen any real evidence of “Gleaming” your track to be anything other than a bunch of work. I have not tried it because I have never seen it discussed in the Model Railroading Press and I would assume if it where such a great idea, it would be well established as such!
NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"
Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association: http://www.nprha.org/
Harold,
Rather than Isopropyl Alcohol.....use Denatured Alcohol, a lot different than Isopropyl. Denatured Alcohol is used a Marine stove fuel, but will not harm plastic's. I would not use the Goo Gone at all. Also try pushing the CMX car around, rather than pulling it, so it clean's the rails and dust first, before Your engines wheels run into it. I use the two I have that way and it works great for me.
If You have nothing against Lacquer thinner, use that in the CMX...that is what is recommended to use.
Good Luck!
Frank
It would be difficult to Glean the track. I don't cover it as I am usually in there every day. I don't mind some of the dust as it creates great weathing on buildings and areas that have water modeled I keep clean.
Harold
Goo Gone and then alcohol is better than just GG.
Would it be possible for you to gleam your track, and then cover the layout with plastic between sessions. Not only track, but everything is collecting dust, some things do not show it until you touch and leave clean smudges.
Dave
I have used both Mineral Sprits and Alcohol in my CMX car. No great results.
What if I use the Goo Gone first followed by either Alcohol or a DRY PAD?
Centerline does not even include the 'free' sample size bottle of Goo Gone anymore. I think they too too much flack over it. The stuff is citrus based (oranges?) and can etch the surface of the rail as well as collect 'crud'. It works great for removing 'stickers' from glass bottles - leave it there.
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
I would not use Goo Gone if You paid me. I agree that it collects stuff.....leaves a sticky film on things, so you wind up cleaning more.
Better off with Alcohol or denatured Alcohol. I personnally use Lacquer thinner in a CMX track cleaning car, does not leave anything on wheels or track. The key to using it....is to get the drip rate correct and you won't even smell the lacquer thinner.
Take Care!
Centerline recommendations is goo gone with there track cleaning car, works great,
Bad, it tends to collect stuff.
I have a problem of keeping my track clean as it is located in a large Shed and collects dust. Someone suggested I use Goo Gone for cleaning my track as well as my engine wheels.
Good or Bad idea?