I have a problem of keeping my track clean as it is located in a large Shed and collects dust. Someone suggested I use Goo Gone for cleaning my track as well as my engine wheels.
Good or Bad idea?
Harold
Bad, it tends to collect stuff.
Centerline recommendations is goo gone with there track cleaning car, works great,
I would not use Goo Gone if You paid me. I agree that it collects stuff.....leaves a sticky film on things, so you wind up cleaning more.
Better off with Alcohol or denatured Alcohol. I personnally use Lacquer thinner in a CMX track cleaning car, does not leave anything on wheels or track. The key to using it....is to get the drip rate correct and you won't even smell the lacquer thinner.
Take Care!
Frank
Centerline does not even include the 'free' sample size bottle of Goo Gone anymore. I think they too too much flack over it. The stuff is citrus based (oranges?) and can etch the surface of the rail as well as collect 'crud'. It works great for removing 'stickers' from glass bottles - leave it there.
Jim
Modeling BNSF and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin
I have used both Mineral Sprits and Alcohol in my CMX car. No great results.
What if I use the Goo Gone first followed by either Alcohol or a DRY PAD?
Goo Gone and then alcohol is better than just GG.
Would it be possible for you to gleam your track, and then cover the layout with plastic between sessions. Not only track, but everything is collecting dust, some things do not show it until you touch and leave clean smudges.
Dave
It would be difficult to Glean the track. I don't cover it as I am usually in there every day. I don't mind some of the dust as it creates great weathing on buildings and areas that have water modeled I keep clean.
Harold,
Rather than Isopropyl Alcohol.....use Denatured Alcohol, a lot different than Isopropyl. Denatured Alcohol is used a Marine stove fuel, but will not harm plastic's. I would not use the Goo Gone at all. Also try pushing the CMX car around, rather than pulling it, so it clean's the rails and dust first, before Your engines wheels run into it. I use the two I have that way and it works great for me.
If You have nothing against Lacquer thinner, use that in the CMX...that is what is recommended to use.
Good Luck!
I have never seen any real evidence of “Gleaming” your track to be anything other than a bunch of work. I have not tried it because I have never seen it discussed in the Model Railroading Press and I would assume if it where such a great idea, it would be well established as such!
NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"
Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association: http://www.nprha.org/
I used the Metal Polish on my layout back in late 2003 and have NOT had to clean my track since!
While some seem to love to run their cleaning cars - I don't and having over 4000 feet of track I would spend way more time just cleaning the track every 2 weeks to get ready for my twice monthly OPs Sessions than it would be worth if I had to run the dumb cleaning cars and drags.
How does one get back into the ends of every industrial siding with a cleaning car?????
I used the Metal Polish method shown in the January 2003 issue of Model Railroader.
Most everyone in my area uses the same method and we love NOT haivng to waste valuable time cleaning the track - when we can be running and operating our trains.
Our local Club's HO layout uses the same method andthey love it.
BOB H - Clarion, PA
Bob, can you remind us of how to do the Metal Polish application?
Rich
Alton Junction
richhotrain Bob, can you remind us of how to do the Metal Polish application? Rich
Rich & Others
I use Mothers Mag Wheel Polish (but any other type of metal or Silver polish will work)!
I place a very thin coating on a piece of HO cork and just rub it on the rails for about 5 to 10 feet.
You can feel the cork getting dry as it will begin to drag a lot more. I then just add another thin coat to the cork and then do another 5 to 10 feet of track.
I then take a fresh piece of HO cork and buff the previously polished rails.
You are done with this section!
IF! you find you are getting polish down on the sides of the rails - YOU have TOO much polish on the cork!
Others have used small pieces of Homasote to rub the rails.
If you have heavy accumulations of dirt or paint, scenery glue on the rails - you need to use a Track Block or worst case super fine sandpaper to remove this accumulation.
It is advised to immediately then Metal Polish the rails as the Track Block or sandpaper leaves minute scratches on the rails heads and these scratches will catch and hold the dirt.
The Metal Polish will fill these minute scratches and keep the dirt out and off the rails.
Bob, that sounds too easy.
How does it compare to gleaming?
any thought to whether Brasso would do the same as Flitz? I have a can of the old formula Brasso (I understand the new stuff is worthless), how would that work on nickel silver?
I have used TPS electrical contact cleaner in the past, but this has gotten me interested in trying metal polish with my new layout.
richhotrain Bob, that sounds too easy. How does it compare to gleaming? Rich
If one remembers that the last part of the Gleaming process is using Metal Polish.
I used the Metal Polish method many years before the Gleaming process was brought up.
Initially - I was just going to run the layout until I needed to reclean the rails as I expected the Metal Polish to only last a few months.
That was back in 2003 and it is now 10 plus years later and I am STILL waiting for the POLISH to fail.
I am happy that it is still working!
Sometimes it is the SIMPLE Things that work - I guess MOST people just expect things have to be complicated (or COST a bunch) to work properly.
I really don't care what everyone does - it works for me and I thought more would try this method to stop the needless repeately having to clean their track - which includes using any DRAGS on the rails during OPs.
But - as I stated before - they MUST like to do it (track cleaning) as they continue to keep doing the same thing again and again - EXPECTING different results!
I always thought that was the defination of insanity! ;-)
And if some don't believe me - stop by some time and we can run a few trains! ;-)
JimT any thought to whether Brasso would do the same as Flitz? I have a can of the old formula Brasso (I understand the new stuff is worthless), how would that work on nickel silver? I have used TPS electrical contact cleaner in the past, but this has gotten me interested in trying metal polish with my new layout.
JimT
I have found that Brasso seemed to leave an OILY residue on the rails which would collect more dirt!
I have always recommended against using Brasso.
Some tried it and found that it did leave a slightly oily finish.
And I used way too much when I was in the Army - so I never liked the stuff once I left! ;-)
Thanks, Bob, for that further explanation. I am going to try it.
eaglescoutThere are many threads on here about gleaming. If you do it right there is nothing better.
Gleamed my track in 2006, run masonite pads to pick up oxidation and haven't cleaned my track since.
Will somebody out there in hyperspace define "gleaming" for me?
Old Fat Robert Will somebody out there in hyperspace define "gleaming" for me?
I was curious too--found it in this thread: http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/p/221146/2443425.aspx#2443425
Essentially polishing the rail before final polishing and buffing. Surprised no one uses lapping compound.
Somebody needs to jump in here who actually knows something about the Gleaming Process! I have understood it to be a burnishing process whereby you rub the railheads with a smooth piece of stainless steel, like a spoon.
There, I've explained what I know about it, which in all likelyhood is dead wrong! However, I have at least "Poked the Bear" which should cause someone to jump in a explain to me how far from the truth I am. Enjoy the education, everyone!
Gleam
You will need:
1. 600 grit sandpaper or a briteboy. I used a bb.
2. Mag wheel polish. I used Blue Magic, found at the auto parts store.
3. Some small pieces of cork roadbed.
4. A stainless steel washer big enough to span both rails. The one I used was rounded on one side.
Steps:
1. Clean the rail with a Brite boy or simular.
2. Slide the washer over the rails, with a little pressure to close up the gaps and nicks. You'll feel the washer slide easier when you are close to being done.This is the burnishing part.
3. Put a very little bit of polish on the piece of cork. I just smear a bit on with my finger.
4. Slide the cork/polish along the rails, reapply as needed to the cork. I did about 6-8' at a time.You will feel less resistance when done.This is the polishing part.
5. Let that dry/ haze up as you would when polishing your car.
6. Wipe residue up with a clean t-shirt or terry cloth towel scrap.
7. You can run a dry piece of cork along the rails here . Not really needed. I didn't.
8. Enjoy running trains and NEVER having to clean track again.
I did the GLEAM method in '07. With the exception of some scenery work that slopped over, I HAVE NOT had to clean my track since then. Semi finished basement, well over 500' of track, northern Wisconsin with all the temp fluctuations that occur. Central heat, no AC. I can go downstairs after a month, turn on the Digitrax system, and run trains. No wiping,etc. If I didn't experience this, I would not believe it, either. I sold my Centerline to a forum member.
Hope that helps.
Terry in NW Wisconsin
Queenbogey715 is my Youtube channel
I agree with the others--Goo Gone is bad for tracks. it accumulates crud.
What do I use to clean tracks? Nothing. Instead, I use Wahl clipper oil. It not only increases conductivity (in some mysterious way), but it eliminates the need to clean track. I haven't cleaned my track (or locomotive or rolling stock wheels) since I started using it about 15 years ago.
I know that the model railroad world divides into pro and anti clipper oil users. But it works for me.
Here's more information about it from my blog: http://cprailmmsub.blogspot.ca/2009/09/to-oil-or-not-oil-tracksthat-is.html
John Longhurst, Winnipeg
Thanks for that info on the gleaming process, Terry. I got exhausted just reading it. I am going to try the Metal Polish method, a lot simpler.
http://www.tonystrains.com/download/CMX-man-generic.pdf
Above is an article from CMX. It gives alot of good info on different types of Solvent. Enjoy
richhotrain eaglescout There are many threads on here about gleaming. If you do it right there is nothing better. Better than the Metal Polish method? Rich
eaglescout There are many threads on here about gleaming. If you do it right there is nothing better.
Better than the Metal Polish method?
Rich,
Gleaming includes the metal polish as the last step of the process.