Building a new layout n scale code 55 layout with Atlas track. I want a yard in the new layout Layout base is 2 inch foam over 1/2 inch plywood. In the past I used caboose Industries manual ground throws. The problem is that I can't fit these between the yard tracks. I am not sure that I can use under table switch machines with the foam/plywood taking up 2 1/2 inches. Any suggestions?
I second the extended linkage. I remember reading an article about how to make your own over-center spring. I'm into HO scale, but it shuld work for N scale too. There are several styles of over-center springs so searching the internet might turn up a variation that you like.
http://delray1967.shutterfly.com/pictures/5
SEMI Free-Mo@groups.io
I haven't done this yet, but small diameter plastic straws from the coffee shop can make good slippery guides for through adjacent roadbed linkage.
Jim
Raised on the Erie Lackawanna Mainline- Supt. of the Black River Transfer & Terminal R.R.
Just to answer the other part of your question. Yes, I have seen posts of folks using piano wire to extend the reach of an under table switch machine. Manual are obviously less expensive, but if you have a problem spot, you can use an under table machine.
Good luck,
Richard
Granted that I model in twice-N scale (1:80, aka HOj), but my technique is neither scale nor gauge specific (and will be used to move points on 9mm gauge HOe (HOn762) track laid with Code 55 rail.)
At the points, fit an Anderson link (Z shaped wire in a vertical tube.) The top of the Z engages the throw bar. At the bottom, the wire is bent parallel to the fascia so that pulling it toward the fascia will move the points to the less-favored route. Two small screw eyes control the fishing line (knotted around that lower arm) that does the actual moving. Away from the fascia the fishing line is loaded with a free hanging weight - this holds the points against the stock rail. At the fascia the other end of the line is attached to whatever is intended to move the points - I use cheap slide switches for manual throws and several different kinds of electric machines when control from two or more places is required.
Note that the line holding the points is always under tension. You aren't trying to push a rope, so no protective cover/guide is required. Additional screw eyes can be used to route the line to the fascia over/under/around obstructions. Just avoid having lines rubbing against each other, wiring or sharp-edged objects.
You might build an experimental rig on a piece of 2-by to work out sizes and proportions, which will vary with the switch gadget you use - 1/4" throw for a slide switch, 1/2" plus for an old Katsumi twin-coil machine, Rix machines have three holes...
The advantage to putting the electricals at the fascia is that you can do all the wiring while sitting in a chair - no spelunking under the layout with a hot soldering tool.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
Hi Alli,
Thanks for the help, will give these suggestions a try.
Ron
A Tortoise will work just fine with a piece of longer music wire. Use a slightly thicker diameter wire than the short piece that comes with the Tortoise, too. I've got one spot where the Tortoise is 5 inches below the track, and it works fine.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
tomikawaTTAway from the fascia the fishing line is loaded with a free hanging weight - this holds the points against the stock rail.
Chuck.
How heavy of a weight do you use? I could experiment with my plethera of fishing weights, however that would go against my generally lazy nature.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
BATMAN tomikawaTTAway from the fascia the fishing line is loaded with a free hanging weight - this holds the points against the stock rail. Chuck. How heavy of a weight do you use? I could experiment with my plethera of fishing weights, however that would go against my generally lazy nature.
The weight needed depends on how easy (or difficult) it is to move the points into solid contact with the stock rail. One installation has a 1-ounce fishing weight. Others have been weighted with stripped 1/4 inch nuts. One particularly recalcitrant installation is loaded down with a retired lug nut - fortunately, that one is thrown by an industrial-strength toggle switch.