Woodland Scenics vs Highball

[kelleywpns]

I've used Woodland Scenics Ballast in the past (fine grade, N-Scale Layout) with no issues.  I noted the price difference (increase) if I chose to use Highball.  For anyone that has used both products, is there much of a difference between the two to justify the extra cost?

Thanks for your time.

Mike

[DSchmitt]

Highball ballast is real rock (limestone).  Woodland Scenics ballast is not rock.  I have read somewhere that it is made from walnut shells.

I have always used Woopdland Scencis so do not know is there is an advantage to one over the other.

[rrebell]

Highball is heavier and tends to stay put when gluing in place, you have to be more carefull with WS stuff.

[rgengineoiler]

Highball is the way to go.  Real rock, won't float, lays down perfectly with no air pockets, (yes I am N Scale) stabilized color and have been using it for 25 years if my memory serves me right.  I always sift the package thru a strainer to take out any over sized pieces and use them later for what ever.  You get what you pay for and Highball is a proven winner.   Doug

[Doug from Michigan]

I haven't tried the Highball, but recently tried the Arizona Rock & Mineral ballast.  Much, much easier to use than the Woodland Scenics.  No floating, less static, etc.  It almost made ballasting enjoyable.

[wp8thsub]

Real rock ballast is worth every extra penny over Woodland Scenics.  I like Scenic Express brand, which is real rock, priced very competetively with Woodland Scenics and very nice to use.  A few shops carry it, but you may have to order direct.

[doctorwayne]

I've used both WS and real rock, although not that brand, and don't see any difference.  Never had a problem with Woodland Scenics floating, either - that's usually a sign of insufficient wetting agent - I use tap water with a few drops of dish detergent added but do apply it very generously.  In my opinion, ballasting is one of the easiest and most satisfying tasks involved in building a layout.

Wayne

[richhotrain]

I have always used Woodland Scenics Medium Ballast on my HO scale layout.

I have two objections to it though.  One, it costs a lot and it only comes in relatively small shaker bottles, not in bulk, so you need a lot of shaker bottles for a large layout.  Two, as others have mentioned, it moves around as you apply the glue mixture even if it is properly pre-wetted.

On my next layout, I would like to use real rock.  And that prompts a question.  If it doesn't move around, do you need to pre-wet it or just apply the glue mix?

Rich

[jrbernier]

richhotrain

On my next layout, I would like to use real rock.  And that prompts a question.  If it doesn't move around, do you need to pre-wet it or just apply the glue mix?

Rich,

  You still need to 'wet' the rock ballast as well.

Doctorwayne,

  Folks in 'arid' environments  may see the 'static' issue more often.  I have always used real rock ballast(Campbells on an old layout, and AR&M on the current one.

Jim

[richhotrain]

jrbernier

richhotrain

On my next layout, I would like to use real rock.  And that prompts a question.  If it doesn't move around, do you need to pre-wet it or just apply the glue mix?

Rich,

  You still need to 'wet' the rock ballast as well.

Jim

Thanks, Jim.

Is that because you need to ensure that the glue mix spreads properly?

Rich

[floridaflyer]

Can't say enough good things about AR&M. Ordered direct , good price, pleasant folks, fast delivery 

[dominic c]

doctorwayne

I've used both WS and real rock, although not that brand, and don't see any difference.  Never had a problem with Woodland Scenics floating, either - that's usually a sign of insufficient wetting agent - I use tap water with a few drops of dish detergent added but do apply it very generously.  In my opinion, ballasting is one of the easiest and most satisfying tasks involved in building a layout.

Wayne

 Couldn't agree more with Wayne. The wetting agent is very important. I use 70% Isop alcohol. I take my time using an eye dropper for the alcohol as well as the WS cement. NO Runs, NO Drips, NO Errors.

JC

[doctorwayne]

jrbernier

  Folks in 'arid' environments  may see the 'static' issue more often.  I have always used real rock ballast(Campbells on an old layout, and AR&M on the current one.

Yeah, that could certainly affect things.  Here, with water to the north, east, and south, and more to the northwest from whence come the prevailing winds, low humidity is seldom an issue.     While rock ballast is available here, many stores stock only the WS products.

Wayne

[wp8thsub]

jrbernier

Folks in 'arid' environments  may see the 'static' issue more often.  

This may be a big part of it.  I live in a very dry climate and the static problem when working with WS ballast here is horrible.  It migrates everywhere when you try to spread it.  I've also seen suggestions that mineral content of the water may have an impact too.  Move Wayne out here to the desert and see how he like WS then.

[doctorwayne]

wp8thsub

Move Wayne out here to the desert and see how he like WS then.

I think that's an excellent idea, Jim.  Any offers? Anybody?     Of course I'd likely be outside enjoying the sun and the heat rather than fighting with ballast.
Spring has finally arrived in my part of the Great White North, (southern Ontario) but it usually doesn't warm up until July and then starts cooling off almost immediately.

Wayne

[rrinker]

 Only ballast problem I've ever had is that with the 'hard' water around here, the 'wet water' method simply does not work. Every faucet grows deposits that we need to clean periodically, and even when showing, choice of soap is somewhat limited because some are nearly impossible to wach clean. So I quickly abandoned that methid and just mist on full strength 70% isopropyl alcohol to wet the ballast, and I dilute the glue or matte medium witht he same 70% alcohol, no water. I suppose I could buy distilled water and use that. I've never had any issues with WS ballast, either in summer where it takes a week for the glue to fully dry since it's so humid, or in winter when simply leaning over generates enough static to give you a shock because it's so dry. Sure there are a few stay grains here in there, but when I shape it along the track and roadbed with a foam brush, it stays put unless I sneeze on it, until I wet it down and then drip on the alcohol/glue mixture to make it permanent. I even had a short stretch where I hadn't glued it down for weeks and ran trains over it many times, didn;t dislodge. I haven't tried any other, but I haven't had much of a reason to, either. The others are all pretty much mail order propositions for me, the LHS always has WS in stock, even the one that otherwise has very little as far as model train stuff.

           --Randy

 

[kelleywpns]

Thanks for all the info ... definitely going to help in my decision.

Mike