Paul Dolkos's article in the June MR was very helpful, but I was especially intrigued by his suggestion that many layouts attach the fascia to a 1x4-inch stringer mounted around the edge of the layout. I guess I haven't seen that many layouts at that stage of construction, so I thought I'd attach 1x2s or 1x3s to the ends of the joists at right angles and pointing downward. Their length would correspond to the height/depth of the fascia, obviously.
This 1x4 scheme seems better in a lot of ways, but let me get it clear: Do you screw the 1x4 to the ends of the joists (which have presumably been cut so that their ends are fairly parallel)? How do you make curved sections or coved corners in the fascia? Is there an illustration of this technique--video, photograph, drawing--somewhere in the MR archive that I might consult?
If you use 1/8" Masonite, it will follow curves quite well. Since my layout has all straight edges, I just glued my fascia in place, so far no problems. I also have it standing off the layout so that I can slip a plexiglass safety shield in to keep locos from jumping to the abyss on their own or with the help of little hands. I put blocks for it to sit on at each joint and in the center of the long pieces (4'ers). So all that is really holding it is a 2"x2" spot of yellow carpenters glue every 2'.
If screwing the fascia to the layout, I'd use round head screws. I got some in case the glue wasn't enough, that are black and do not have a full round head, but do have the flat back. Countersinking into the Masonite didn't sound like a great idea to me (too thin).
At this point I have not painted my fascia, the brown Masonite does not look too bad by itself. Those screws wouldn't look bad against any reasonably dark color or could be painted.
I have also heard of a thin MDF that might work, but have never seen or tried it.
If you have very sharp curves in the fascia of your layout, you might consider screwing aluminum flashing. as some folks do for their back drop. The problem I see with that for fascia is it would have sharp edges, unless you rolled them..
Good luck,
Richard
erosebudut I was especially intrigued by his suggestion that many layouts attach the fascia to a 1x4-inch stringer mounted around the edge of the layout.
LION builded his layout with such stringers.
Here is picture:
Upper and lower levels have the stringer, the middle level does not as this was during the construction phase. Once the tracks were in on the lower level, I laid the deck and stringers for the middle level.
LION will have more on this later. (Maybe MR will pick up that story for the Workshop [hint. hint]).
The spring on the table is the 1:1 version of those Kadee springs you keep loosing on the floor. I DARE you to loose this one, especially if it lands on your foot!
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
With all due respect to Mr. Dolkos, what stringer? My benchwork is classic L-girder, my joists will be trimmed when I've decided on how the scenery will run and there will never be a solid, full-length end-of-joist stringer anywhere other than where there is one now - 8 linear feet out of about 80 feet of projected fascia length. (That stringer is steel stud cap stock)
When the time comes, my un-tempered masonite fascia will be attached to the ends of the joists with vertical brackets cut from pieces of steel stud, undulating along as it pretends to approximate a river bank. It will only be straight where a control panel needs to be supported - and maybe not even then.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)
I use solid backing behind the fascia everywhere I can to enhance durability.
Here's some benchwork in the process of getting fascia installed. Note the 1X3 edge behind everyplace the fascia will be straight. I use open grid "studwall" construction instead of L-girder, so I have a straight backing for fascia everyplace I need it. You can add a stringer along the edge of L girder just about as easily.
For straight areas, the lack of some kind of backing increases potential for the fascia material to warp or otherwise look wavy and misaligned.
Wherever I have a curve in the fascia, I install a backer cut from plywood or OSB (usually scrap), and secure the fascia to it with adhesive caulk like Liquid Nails. The backing is installed on the bottom of the benchwork with screws, and the fascia is cut tall enough to completely cover it and then some. Getting the backing the correct shape is easy, as you can install the fascias first and use it to trace the curve onto the plywood.
This is the same area with fascia completed. The installation has proven to be very solid.
Rob Spangler
This is most helpful. I'm ready to move on with mine now that I have these ideas and illustrations. Thanks so much.
wp8thsub I use solid backing behind the fascia everywhere I can to enhance durability. Here's some benchwork in the process of getting fascia installed. Note the 1X3 edge behind everyplace the fascia will be straight. I use open grid "studwall" construction instead of L-girder, so I have a straight backing for fascia everyplace I need it. You can add a stringer along the edge of L girder just about as easily. For straight areas, the lack of some kind of backing increases potential for the fascia material to warp or otherwise look wavy and misaligned. Wherever I have a curve in the fascia, I install a backer cut from plywood or OSB (usually scrap), and secure the fascia to it with adhesive caulk like Liquid Nails. The backing is installed on the bottom of the benchwork with screws, and the fascia is cut tall enough to completely cover it and then some. Getting the backing the correct shape is easy, as you can install the fascias first and use it to trace the curve onto the plywood. This is the same area with fascia completed. The installation has proven to be very solid.
Your construction is quite similar to that of my club. Full radiused turns are better done w/ the joists set at "radians" for ease of riser placement as well as facsia attachment. We have always used a "sub" facsia and areas where the radiuas is quite tight will bend 2 layers of 3/8" plywood (exterior graining run vertical) A couple spots where the "end run" has a radius as small as 12", upper and lower curved 3/4" ply is blocked for separation and as a base to bend the flexable fascia material. The fascia is rather permanent and is countersunk screwed and spackled.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
I have a neighbor that was remodeling a room in his home, and was taking out all of the old paneling, in favor of textured drywall. If you cut it across the grain (cross cut) it folds nicely around curves. My benchwork was made using 1x4, and I just use the same screws I used to assemble my "dominoes".
Marlon
See pictures of the Clinton-Golden Valley RR
Most everyone seems to be using close to the same shade of green...closest I could find in the sherwin Williams palette is "cilantro"
matthew
I use the 1/8 Masonite Hard Tempered both sides and it bends down to a 12" radius without problem.
For smaller radius soaking the area in water to soften the Masonite you can make much tighter bends.
The Masonite we get around Western PA will stay together even when wet so making the bends is no problem! I have had to rewet some to correct too tight of bends I put in come pieces - this stuff works.
I attach the Masonite Fascia (which most pieces are only 3" high to the layout with an Air Pin Gun using 3/4" pins. They are 1/16 inch and are easily hidden with a bit of Spackle if needed - but most of the time I just paint over the small holes and the paint will fill them in!
I have both long flat sides to my benchwork as well as ends of Peninsulas that I just bend the Masonite around and attach the Fascia with a pin in the ends of the benchwork.
I then fill in between the Fascia (Masonite) and the rest of the benchwork with Pink/Blue foam and secneorize the area. The foam will support the Masonite from being pushed back and what few pins in the ends of the benchwork will hold the Masonite until the scenery paint/glue dries attaching the foam to the Masonite.
If I have to rermove the Masonite Fascia I just work the Masonite loose form the benchwork using a putty knife and pull it off. The tiny Pins holding the Masonite will pull right though the Masonite and I can then remove the pins with a pair of side cuts.
I just sand the bumps off the back where the Pins pulled thou the Fascia and can then reuse the piece of Masonite.
I almost never need to remove the Fascia as I have access to everything from under the layout which includes the upper levels as well so I never figured in a reason to build removable Fascia.
I never cared for the looks of Finishing Washers and Screws showing on the face of my Fascia. The clean surface of the Fascia attached to the layout with the Air Gun Pins gives a much cleaner look which much prefer!
BOB H - Clarion, PA
Nice system you use Bob. I also don't like the finishing washers for the fascia, on our layout they are only used to hold the 1/8" Lexan to the secured fascia.