First, let me say, the suggestion in the "How to Search" thread to use Google with site:cs.trains.com is an absolute winner. As a relatively new participant in the forum, I found the community search to be limited, at best. Using the Google search, I was able to quickly find a couple of old threads discussing open-grid vs. L-girder. Based on what I read, I have pretty much decided on open-grid for my first attempt at benchwork. This will be my first real attempt at any type of real carpentry since high-school shop class, a long, long, time ago. The layout is fairly basic, a 4x8 with one rounded corner. Unless someone tells me I am way off base, open-grid it is.
Richard
I used open grid topped by blue extruded foam on my layout and am very happy.
SO, no, you are not "way off base".
"Play ball" !
Uh, erm, maybe "strat your engines"?
er, uh, I mean "Keep on trackin' "!
-G .
Just my thoughts, ideas, opinions and experiences. Others may vary.
HO and N Scale.
After long and careful thought, they have convinced me. I have come to the conclusion that they are right. The aliens did it.
Good luck on your endeavor,, I've built all my layouts,open grid and never regretted it... One word to the wise,,,, when you draw out your track plan,make sure you don't have a switch over a framing member,especially, if you are going to use under table machines,,,rather than find out later.......
Cheers,
Frank
Bear in mind that nothing says you have to put the roadbed ON the grid. You can support the roadbed on risers above the grid also. I've build the last 3 or 4 layouts that way. It solves the "whole switch above a grid member" issue. You can build a layout that looks like a L girder design in many ways. If you go back to David Barrow's original "Domino" concept on his early Cat Mountain and Santa Fe layouts, that was the concept he used. For a 4x8 starter layout its probably not necessary, but food for thought for future layouts.
My roadbed is on risers about 8" above the grids. That allows me to put all the switch controls above the grid and install car card and waybill boxes above the grid.
Don't be afraid to mix and match benchwork styles. I use open grid for the majority of my benchwork, but use more or less L-Girder for the blob at the end of the peninsula to get the rounded shape.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
For the basic 4 x 8 Open Grid is probably the best way to go!
If and When you decide to expand - then considering other types of benchwork each has its own best uses!
On my current Layout I used L-Girder for most of the Lower Level.
On the next level it was Open Grid as I wanted to keep the thickness of that level fairly thin (in compairson to an L-Girder design.
Now for my 3 rd Level (and 4th in places) I went with Thin Edge benchwork - where the front of the benchwork is only 1 inch thick and the rear edge is the 4" thick (so in effect makes a triangle shape!
This helps with the site distances with the upper levels!
BOB H - Clarion, PA
When I picked up my building supplies for my benchwork at Home Depot, I noticed a clamp for holding frame pieces at a right angle. Since I work alone, this was a great addition to my tool box. The frame came out solid and square, something which my limited ability in carpentry seldom achieves.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Open-grid it is. For what it is worth, here is my plan. There are 45 degree braces in the front, and a 1x4 cross member in the back. The surface will be 1" foam on 1/2" plywood. I have the crosspieces spaced every 12". Is 12" overkill?
I only have one suggestion. That is to either use foam or plywood, not both. I have one small area on my layout where I put foam over plywood and I find it a real pain to work through both materials as far as putting wiring and other things in. I would go with 2" foam and no plywood on 16" centres. If you go with 1" foam 12" centres are good.
Good luck.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
I am also a fan of open grid benchwork but not of today's dimensional wood products. I built all of the open grid benchwork on my current double-deck layout using 1/2" hardwood plywood. This plywood grade is somewhere between AC and cabinet grade plywood and is priced accordingly (I got mine at Lowes). It has 7 plies instead of 5, no voids in any layer, and both sides are smooth sanded and patch free. Just rip all of the framing pieces you need from a sheet of this plywood (it would be a good choice for the layout deck as well). The only dimensional wood I used in my benchwork was a few 2x4's I ripped into 2x2's then crosscut to length to make joint reinforcing glue blocks. I glued all of the benchwork joints and assembled everything using only wire brads. Once the glue dried, the benchwork was strong and rigid. When I glued on a plywood deck it became just about indestructable.
Hornblower
Hi gentlemen,
I find L-girder benchwork more easily to construct, more forgiving and extremely versatile. However weight and height of the construction are factors to consider as well. They might swing the balance towards open grid benchwork.
Paul
I have found with 1/2" plywood on open grid that 16" centers for the cross pieces works well.
I use open grid because I build my layout in sections and they are more reusable - some of mine are on their third layout.
Good luck
+1 for open grid built from ripped hardwood plywood. Wouldn't build it any other way.
Benchwork details
Alan
Freelancing the LK&O Railroad
RideOnRoadOpen-grid it is. For what it is worth, here is my plan. There are 45 degree braces in the front, and a 1x4 cross member in the back. The surface will be 1" foam on 1/2" plywood. I have the crosspieces spaced every 12". Is 12" overkill?
Go with 16" centers. You want to be able to put a power drill in between the pieces.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
12" centers is overkill and will make working between them challenging. 16" centers is the way to go.
This is the benchwork for Phase 1 of my layout:
It's a 5x12 foot free-standing table, mounted on casters so I could push it around the train room. Maintaining access to the back was important, and the casters made that easy.
The outside of the frame is 1x4 lumber, while the cross pieces are 1x3, mounted even with the bottom of the frame so the foam sits inside the frame rather than on top of it. The legs are 2x3, and the triangular gussets on the corners are from scrap 3/4 inch plywood. The cross pieces are on 16-inch centers.
My layout surface is 2-inch foam, no plywood. This has worked well for me.