Laying out the tracks on my Sawmill - Vineyard module

[Knuddelfisch]

Basics on laying tracks...

Especially in a small scale like "N" or "TT" laying tracks the right way it probably one of the most important step on building a model railroad layout. A smooth and secure running layout should be first priority while laying the tracks as it is usually hard to adjust once the track is fixed in place.

Here is a summary on what I did on my TT-Scale "Sawmill and Vineyard" module!

You will find more picture on my Facebook page:

TT Scale Model Railroad

Before starting to pin your tracks down, you should think about the following:
1. Track materials: The Tillig professional track is preferred; even you still get the old BTTB tracks cheap at Ebay. If you want to have something more filigree then I would recommend TTFiligran.
2. Track plan: Less is often more and a nicely arched layout with larger radius and switches is not only prettier but also more secure to operate.
3. Inclining tracks: On almost all layouts… Between 0.75 and 1.5 inch per 3 feet is usually recommended to still have medium and long trains moving on smoothly.
4. Power on the track: I usually solder power leads to the track every feet or so. You should think about the use of electronics to monitor your blocks. If this is the case then it is usually required to cut, isolate rails and fed power to this section independently.

Building the track bed...

From the small metal bridge from the last episode, the track is slightly sloping down towards the level of the planed sawmill.

Before you lay the first track, the construction of the railway bed and the few inch right and left come first.
In my case I stretch out the shallow slope with cut wooden blocks and a built in 3 mm plywood. After that, you can loosely lay out some tracks and test the slope.

On this Board I glued 1/3 inch Cork strips, which cancels the noise and can be easily processed. Anyone can bevel the edges of the Cork or later do so with putty.

In the next step, the tracks are glued with a flexible adhesive on the cork. When you use flex tracks then make sure that you got uniform distance between the planks. Now you should solder the power lines and make a first test drive!

The dam itself can be created and shaped the easiest way with fly screen and plaster on top of it. This dried up following a coat of primer in a dark brown-green color. After your rail bed is all dried out then you can start with the more exciting stuff!

Before the gravel column was ready to come, the landscaping guys had some work to do. An earthy rocky ground with short grass fibers arose. After some testing a mix of bird sand, mixed with different colors of brown powder, small slate stones and short grass fibers worked out the best. You fill everything into a plastic container and shake vigorously.
Now the dam will be coated with white glue. Then, as well as later in the gravel glue, everything is drizzled with a water white glue mixture again. The ratio of water to white glue should be at 10:1. Mix it in a jar, shake it well and pour with a plastic syringe from the medical supply store. This will hold bombastic!

The selection of the correct ballast is a philosophy in itself and quite strongly depending by track type, surrounding, area, age and taste. My choice fell on ASOA, since this gravel shape and size was most appealing.
The best way to get the gravel on the track is an old photo film box when you are able to find still one at home. Spill a good amount of gravel between and on the side of the rails.. Then take an old brush and stuff/pack the gravel between the blanks of the rails. It requires a little bit of dexterity to make smooth out the ballast evenly, but with a little practice and a steady hand you will be an expert quite rapidly.

Before re-applying the water-glue mixture is used before, the track bed must be sprayed with "relaxed water". Mix it with water plus a little dish soap which decreases the surface tension between the stones and the water-glue mixture can run between the ballast more easily. I used a spray bottle like you use for flowers to spray the tracks.
Then you have to apply the water white glue mixture again and let everything dry for a good day.

When everything dried out well you should brush of unwanted gravel with a hard brush from the track bed. Special emphasis should be on the inside of the rails, so that the wheels do not climb on gravel piles and derail.
Now you have a beautiful bed of gravel, but the track profiles is still sparkle like new... To change this, you should apply a blend of dark brown grey black (depending on track conditions) acrylic paint with a small brush or airbrush. This step is somewhat time expensive and associated with concentration, but you'll be amazed by the result!

Cleaning the top of the rail should be done with a soft piece of wood to pull the layer of color off and use alcohol for a final wipe. You shouldn’t use sand paper is it greats little scratches which will get the track dirty again even faster. Like with the real trains, the train leaves a lot of brown and black dust and oil on the track. You can duplicate this effect with powder paints in different shades.

It has proven the best to start first with the darker tones and then applying the lighter tones. I applied the powder only spotted and then rubbed with a bristle brush into the track bed. Thus, with a little practice you get the right layers and mix of rust and dust color to your rail bed!

All around a track bed...

A realistic track design with all the details and eye-catchers still need little bit more to it.

I want to start with the small signal signs which stand on the tracks and which get far less attention within the model railroad community than the light and semaphore signals. The model railroad supplier Weinert and Art & Detail provides different signal Panel sets for all periods, DR or DB, branch or electrified main line. You just have to cut the signal boards, paint black the edges of the cut and glue it to a pillar beside the track. Now our driver knows when he has to ring the bell, lift the snowplow, stop or slow down!

The red and white halt markers between the triangle of the switches and the illuminated switch lanterns from Art & Detail complete the reality effect!

Finally a little bit of nature should not be missed. A little more grass, shrubs and trees round off a beautiful and life like track in the end!

Now it is your turn!! I wish you much fun with your design and hope I was able to inspire you with the one or the other idea.

[zstripe]

Knuddelfisch,

Although I'm not a big fan of European railroads,, I must say that your track work and ballasting are excellent in my opinion,,,, Good job...

Cheers,

Frank

[Knuddelfisch]

Thank you very much Frank!

It is quite an effort the first time and I wondered why I should do that for my complete layout... But once the first strip is done and you see how nice it looks then you know that it was worth the effort.

And I got an interesting question for you...

If I would swop the German rolling stock with US at the same spot, would you still see it as a "European" landscape and tracks? What would be the major differences to US railroads in your opinion?

Thanks,

Knuddel.

[zstripe]

Kunddel,

I believe that if you did want to change the engines and cars to US,possibly steam from the 40s and 50s,it would look like a US country railroad.  The track work like I said before is excellent,maybe change the switch stands to more of the US style.  I don't know about any buildings you have so I can't comment on that.  Aside from that, I think it would look great.... Go for it if you want, you could always change it again,if you so desired.    I would be interested to see it if you did..   Time is precious to all of us and you spent yours wisely.....

Cheers,

Frank

[Knuddelfisch]

Great idea!

Let me start with running US freight train down that line and shoot some pictures.

I will get back to you soon!

Knuddel.