Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Inspecting Turnouts Before Installing

834 views
2 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    January 2010
  • 2,616 posts
Inspecting Turnouts Before Installing
Posted by peahrens on Saturday, January 26, 2013 1:36 PM

I'm adding three Walthers-Shinohara code 83 turnouts, rearranging some track to colsolidate my loco facilities. 

While getting cork roadbed in place and checking how level a 3-way turnout would be, I discovered a freight car bumps over one part of the turnout.  On closer workbench inspection, I see that a thin piece of plastic that extends past one of the frogs, to be against the guardrail (so it stays behind a wheel flange passing through) is loose, hanging out away from the guardrail where a flange has to bump over it.  It seems to have no function other than appearance, so I will first see if I can super-glue it against the guardrail, otherwise trim it off. 

Just thought I'd reinforce the wisdom of checking (mechanically, gaging and electrical continuity where applicable) a turnout to the extent one can before installing.  I failed to do so on initial construction, and had one with a bad jumper, which I could have returned instead of having to rectify in place with an additional feeder wire.

Paul

Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Dearborn Station
  • 24,280 posts
Posted by richhotrain on Saturday, January 26, 2013 1:43 PM

peahrens

I'm adding three Walthers-Shinohara code 83 turnouts, rearranging some track to colsolidate my loco facilities. 

While getting cork roadbed in place and checking how level a 3-way turnout would be, I discovered a freight car bumps over one part of the turnout.  On closer workbench inspection, I see that a thin piece of plastic that extends past one of the frogs, to be against the guardrail (so it stays behind a wheel flange passing through) is loose, hanging out away from the guardrail where a flange has to bump over it.  It seems to have no function other than appearance, so I will first see if I can super-glue it against the guardrail, otherwise trim it off. 

Just thought I'd reinforce the wisdom of checking (mechanically, gaging and electrical continuity where applicable) a turnout to the extent one can before installing.  I failed to do so on initial construction, and had one with a bad jumper, which I could have returned instead of having to rectify in place with an additional feeder wire.

I hear ya.

I failed to closely examine a Walthers Shinohara double crossover and later had to wire a jumper wire to the underside of the double crossover.

Rich

Alton Junction

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: 4610 Metre's North of the Fortyninth on the left coast of Canada
  • 9,352 posts
Posted by BATMAN on Saturday, January 26, 2013 2:39 PM

I have about forty Walthers T/Os. On a few the file or dremal has come out for a little fine tuning. I had one where right after I installed a Frog Juicer, the wheel of the 4-4-0 was just being lifted enough at the frog that contact was lost. A very light pass with a disc on the Dremal fixed that. I should have been a Surgeon.Laugh

Brent

"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Users Online

There are no community member online

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!