Sorry aj1s, doesn't compute linearly for me based on experience and I wouldn't want you to waste any more of your time on me.
BrianinBuffalo I guess Saturday if I am able to mock up the track we will see what happens
That's a viable approach. The other would be to work on a new design that increases the likelihood of reliable operation based on best practices by eliminating as many s-curves as possible and broadening radii where you can, especially on grades. At the same time, you could work in more operating interest, if desired.
Either way, best of luck with your project, I'm sure you'll work it out.
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BrianinBuffalo you guys have me really confused. I guess Saturday if I am able to mock up the track we will see what happens. Now I am scared nothing will work
you guys have me really confused. I guess Saturday if I am able to mock up the track we will see what happens. Now I am scared nothing will work
Brian,
I don't have any long (~80') passenger cars. I do have several 6 axle diesels and 60'+ freight cars. I have not had any operational problems with straight-curve transitions down to 9.75" in Kato Unitrack. I have not tried anything less. I have had lots of 19" radius S curves (9.5" equivalent straight-curve transition) with no problems. The train does not necessarily look great going over them, but no problems operating.
The really great thing about Unitrack is that it is so easy to mock up different track arrangements and try them out with your own equipment.
Andy
Glad it's working for you. You might try backing through the s-curves, too -- that's usually the tougher test. Have fun!
Great news!
But like Cuyama said, backing up (pushing the cars, uphill if possible), through trouble spots is a more stressing test.
Above all, have fun!
BrianinBuffalo Unfortunately the #6 switches are power routing but I read somewhere how I can fix that.
Unfortunately the #6 switches are power routing but I read somewhere how I can fix that.
The HO ones have a screw in the bottom and two holes. Moving the screw from the one it's in to the other changes it to non-power routing. I'd guess the N ones work the same?? Usually the instructions are printed on the cardboard backing of the blister pack the turnout came in, or you can check www.katousa.com.
wjstix BrianinBuffalo Unfortunately the #6 switches are power routing but I read somewhere how I can fix that. I'd guess the N ones work the same?? Usually the instructions are printed on the cardboard backing of the blister pack the turnout came in, or you can check www.katousa.com.
I'd guess the N ones work the same?? Usually the instructions are printed on the cardboard backing of the blister pack the turnout came in, or you can check www.katousa.com.
Yes, exactly the same!