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Your best recipe for staining a Plaster Cast Mountain?

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  • Member since
    October 2012
  • 33 posts
Your best recipe for staining a Plaster Cast Mountain?
Posted by RailroadCoug on Monday, November 26, 2012 3:36 PM

Hi.  I am reading the Scenic Manual from Woodlands Scenics, regarding using a wash technique with coloring plaster cloth, such as using Liquid Earth Color Pigments diluted into thin washes.  Staining with washes consists of Burnt Umber, Concrete, Stone Gray, and White.  Then, another batch of Black, Raw Umber, and Slate Gray.  This would go with several washes to get the right look.  I know that there are more than one way to skin a cat, so I am looking for advice?

What's your best recipe for staining white plaster casting?  Shall I use the Woodland Scenics recipe, or in your opinion, is there a better way?

ColoringPlasterCloth Mountain 4.jpg.html

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • 547 posts
Posted by eaglescout on Monday, November 26, 2012 3:46 PM

From my reading and some experience you start by painting the whole area with a flat latex paint.  If you are modeling a particular location choose a base color that approximates the predominant color of the area, usually a beige or grey shade.  Then your washes and dry brushing would include other colors in the rock structures native to your chosen area.  Try experimenting on a small area and just paint over it if you don't get the effect you want.

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: Pittsburgh, PA
  • 1,796 posts
Posted by JoeinPA on Monday, November 26, 2012 4:31 PM

I started out using the Woodland Scenics method on plaster cloth covered with Sculptamold. I didn't like the blotchy look that I got. I now use a diluted latex paint for the base coat to even things out and then proceed with various washes for the final effect.

Joe

  • Member since
    January 2001
  • From: SE Minnesota
  • 6,845 posts
Posted by jrbernier on Tuesday, November 27, 2012 7:30 AM

  Her is how  handle it on my layout.  After using the plaster cloth, I 'paint' the area with 'patching plaster' to get an even 'shell' of plaster.  I buy 18 lb bags of 90 minute Sheetrock Brand patching plaster.  It takes stains quite well and the 90 minute dry time makes it easy to work with.

  I then add 'rock' castings and fill in with more patching plaster.  I stain the rocks and any rough area with cheap acrylic paints like Creamcote/Apple Barrel/etc.  I water them down and paint them on as 'washes'.  Get some 'lamp black' while you are at it and make a super thin wash. Paint it on the rocks after the initial stain color has dried, and use a spray bottle of water to wash most of it off.  The black will stay in the cracks/crevices and add 'depth' to your rocks.

  The rest of the area gets a coat of flat latex interior paint.  Depending on the area you are modeling, look for something 'earthy'.  I use Dutch Boy 'Potting Soil' for my ground cover base coat. 

  Ground foam is next step,along with static grass and trees.  Here is an example:

Jim

Modeling BNSF  and Milwaukee Road in SW Wisconsin

  • Member since
    July 2007
  • From: Pottstown PA
  • 1,039 posts
Posted by rdgk1se3019 on Tuesday, November 27, 2012 12:12 PM

That looks pretty good Jim.

I have a question about the trees.

Are they puff ball trees?

Dennis Blank Jr.

CEO,COO,CFO,CMO,Bossman,Slavedriver,Engineer,Trackforeman,Grunt. Birdsboro & Reading Railroad

  • Member since
    November 2002
  • From: US
  • 2,455 posts
Posted by wp8thsub on Tuesday, November 27, 2012 1:00 PM

I use flat latex paint everywhere I don't have rocks, and color the rocks with layers of washes and dry-brushing.  I start with a drak wash of black acrylic, and add two or three layers of dry brushed acrylic of progressively lighter colors to impart depth.

Here's a scene progressing from plain plaster to finished color:

Note that I leave the latex coloring until after all the rocks are done.

Although not from the same angle, here's the same area with ground cover added:

 

Rob Spangler

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