Paul_in_GA Paulus Jas Hi, looking at the pic and drawings, could it be your room is only 13 ft wide? Paul Thanks for replying. I just remeasured it and it's 14' wide by 14 1/2 long.
Paulus Jas Hi, looking at the pic and drawings, could it be your room is only 13 ft wide? Paul
Hi,
looking at the pic and drawings, could it be your room is only 13 ft wide?
Paul
Thanks for replying. I just remeasured it and it's 14' wide by 14 1/2 long.
The OP's drawing is not to scale (how else could the 30" -- or 2' 6") be only half the size of the 2' 3" wall space right next to it!
But Paul (the one in GA), while there are lots of people willing to HELP you design your layout, no one is going to just up and do it for you (except for the few professionals here, who will want to be paid. So maybe one of us will put your actual room dimensions into a CAD program and we can start working with it.
In the mean time, you've given us very little to work with, other than some real basics. Do you want the elevate track connected to the lower (which will greatly complicate things because in addition to all the real estate taken up by curves, you will need inclines with a reasonable incline to them). Can you set your railroad in time and space for us. I think you said you have a CONRAIL loco, so are you in the Northeastern US? What approximate year (Conrail covers roughly 1975 to 1999. What do you want your railroad to do? Haul coal? Intermodal trailers? Wood products? Is there a specific scene you want to model? How about the balance between real operations and continuous running?
As you can see, there's a fair bit of groundwork to do before you start laying track.... even digital track.
So while we're nailing down the room layout, start thinking about these other aspects of your layout.
Connecticut Valley Railroad A Branch of the New York, New Haven, and Hartford
"If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right." -- Henry Ford
CTValleyRR Paul_in_GA Paulus Jas Hi, looking at the pic and drawings, could it be your room is only 13 ft wide? Paul Thanks for replying. I just remeasured it and it's 14' wide by 14 1/2 long. The OP's drawing is not to scale (how else could the 30" -- or 2' 6") be only half the size of the 2' 3" wall space right next to it! But Paul (the one in GA), while there are lots of people willing to HELP you design your layout, no one is going to just up and do it for you (except for the few professionals here, who will want to be paid. So maybe one of us will put your actual room dimensions into a CAD program and we can start working with it. In the mean time, you've given us very little to work with, other than some real basics. Do you want the elevate track connected to the lower (which will greatly complicate things because in addition to all the real estate taken up by curves, you will need inclines with a reasonable incline to them). Can you set your railroad in time and space for us. I think you said you have a CONRAIL loco, so are you in the Northeastern US? What approximate year (Conrail covers roughly 1975 to 1999. What do you want your railroad to do? Haul coal? Intermodal trailers? Wood products? Is there a specific scene you want to model? How about the balance between real operations and continuous running? As you can see, there's a fair bit of groundwork to do before you start laying track.... even digital track. So while we're nailing down the room layout, start thinking about these other aspects of your layout.
I'm sorry about my measurements but it is exactly 14.5 feet long by 14 feet wide.
Entrance door is 30" wide.
Closet door is 30" wide.
Window is 30" wide.
I can provide more detailed info if needed and yes, I would be willing to pay someone, depends on how expensive it would be.
As for your questions:
I'd like the elevated connected to the lower, yes.
I have no real desire to set it in time or space, just a fantasy railroad that will haul passengers to a station, haul freight cars to businesses, and haul some tankers. But this can be changed along the way as I don't really care about modeling real life, I just want something that looks cool. I'm not interested in real operations yet either. As for a scene, all I really want is a tunnel, a bridge, mountains with stone faces, trees, maybe a small pond, and some small businesses and houses. I really do appreciate all the help I can get.
By the way the locos I have are an Atlas CSX U23B anf a Bachman GE 44 ton Switcher. Both DCC.
Paul_in_GABy the way the locos I have are an Atlas CSX U23B anf a Bachman GE 44 ton Switcher.
A room doughnut layout should make larger corners much easier to incorporate.
Texas Zepher Paul_in_GABy the way the locos I have are an Atlas CSX U23B anf a Bachman GE 44 ton Switcher. A U23B is not a locomotive that I would have expected to require 22" curves. A U23C maybe. Of course one always wants curves as large as curves as possible but if you stick with the original space I think you can drop to 20" or 18" curves. A room doughnut layout should make larger corners much easier to incorporate.
Cool! That's good news because someone told me I'd need larger turns. Great, then that makes things a little easier doesn't it? Thanks a lot for you help.
i am the Paul from the Netherlands who still has concerns about your measureemnts.
Looking at the first drawing and the photo you showed us the distance between your desk and the 7 ft long part of your plan is just half a foot. Since your desk is about 5"7 or 67", the remaining walkway between them should be 30", not the 6 inches as is visible on your first drawing.
You should consider height as well. Most model railroads are operated standing up, trains running at armpit height.
Since your view on modeling a railroad is rather limited to a very scenic issues, it might be interesting to learn more about real railroads and how to model them. Track Planning For Realistic Operation by the late John Armstrong could be a great investment.
102 Realistic Track Plans might be onther great buy. Don't look at the size of these layouts only; the kind of scenery, if they are loaded or not with tracks and switching oppertunities are worth some consideration.
Smile
steinjr Paul_in_GA Okay, here are the dimension of my room. Anything important about the room and it's use not shown on the drawing? Could the office desk and chair be moved left, much closer to the closet? Smile, Stein
Paul_in_GA Okay, here are the dimension of my room.
Okay, here are the dimension of my room.
Anything important about the room and it's use not shown on the drawing? Could the office desk and chair be moved left, much closer to the closet?
Smile, Stein
I mean something conceptually roughly along these lines - moving the office desk and chair left (and rotating them) to create more space for a layout:
The layout is not a design, btw - just a conceptual sketch showing one of the ways a a layout with 24" radius curves possibly could be fitted into your room.
Here is another way a layout with 24" minimum radius could possibly be fitted into the room - this would take a layout mounted high enough that it could run above stuff on the desk and making the removable section less of a hassle when/if you wanted to duck under it instead of removing it:
Neither of these are a very complete design - they are just rough illustrations of how you possibly could fit a layout with reasonable curves into the room by thinking outside rectangular tables (and possibly moving the desk) Smile, Stein
Paulus Jas Hi, i am the Paul from the Netherlands who still has concerns about your measureemnts. Looking at the first drawing and the photo you showed us the distance between your desk and the 7 ft long part of your plan is just half a foot. Since your desk is about 5"7 or 67", the remaining walkway between them should be 30", not the 6 inches as is visible on your first drawing. You should consider height as well. Most model railroads are operated standing up, trains running at armpit height. Since your view on modeling a railroad is rather limited to a very scenic issues, it might be interesting to learn more about real railroads and how to model them. Track Planning For Realistic Operation by the late John Armstrong could be a great investment. 102 Realistic Track Plans might be onther great buy. Don't look at the size of these layouts only; the kind of scenery, if they are loaded or not with tracks and switching oppertunities are worth some consideration. Smile Paul
Hi Paulus, the drawing I posted made with a drawing program is accurate. Also I plan on buying both of those books. Thatnk you for your help from the Netherlands too! I have always wanted to visit there.
steinjr steinjr Paul_in_GA Okay, here are the dimension of my room. Anything important about the room and it's use not shown on the drawing? Could the office desk and chair be moved left, much closer to the closet? Smile, Stein I mean something conceptually roughly along these lines - moving the office desk and chair left (and rotating them) to create more space for a layout: The layout is not a design, btw - just a conceptual sketch showing one of the ways a a layout with 24" radius curves possibly could be fitted into your room. Here is another way a layout with 24" minimum radius could possibly be fitted into the room - this would take a layout mounted high enough that it could run above stuff on the desk and making the removable section less of a hassle when/if you wanted to duck under it instead of removing it: Neither of these are a very complete design - they are just rough illustrations of how you possibly could fit a layout with reasonable curves into the room by thinking outside rectangular tables (and possibly moving the desk) Smile, Stein
Thanks Stein! Someone told me that with the U23B loco I don't really need 22" radius curves, the LHS guy told me that.
Your designs are amazing, I know they're not an exact plan as you said but I like it. I really appreciate you taking your time to do this. I can easily move the desk, I measured last night. I like what you did, it's cool!
Paul_in_GA Thanks Stein! Someone told me that with the U23B loco I don't really need 22" radius curves, the LHS guy told me that.
The rule of the thumb is that you need a curve radius of about 2.5 - 3 times the length of your longest rolling stock (engine or car) to be certain that cars or engines won't derail on curves. For it to look good (especially when looking at a curve from the outside - i.e. a curve that swings towards you instead of away from you), the recommendation is about 4 times the length. For 8" long locos or cars, that is about 24". In general, you do not want to go for smaller curve radius than you are forced to accept. Even the gentlest curves possible in a your typical spare bedroom layout tends to be way sharper than what the real railroad would normally use.
So I wouldn't recommend pushing your minimum curve radius down to an absolute minimum the train can get around. Especially not if your main goal is to create a layout where you want to admire longish trains running through mountain scenery more than a layout where small switchers will do street running in a cramped urban environment to spot single cars at industries.
But your layout, your decisions. Just do a mockup and test how it looks to you. If it doesn't work, just redo whatever doesn't work - it is no disaster. Change is typical of model railroad layouts :-) Smile, Stein
steinjr Paul_in_GA Thanks Stein! Someone told me that with the U23B loco I don't really need 22" radius curves, the LHS guy told me that. The rule of the thumb is that you need a curve radius of about 2.5 - 3 times the length of your longest rolling stock (engine or car) to be certain that cars or engines won't derail on curves. For it to look good (especially when looking at a curve from the outside - i.e. a curve that swings towards you instead of away from you), the recommendation is about 4 times the length. For 8" long locos or cars, that is about 24". In general, you do not want to go for smaller curve radius than you are forced to accept. Even the gentlest curves possible in a your typical spare bedroom layout tends to be way sharper than what the real railroad would normally use. So I wouldn't recommend pushing your minimum curve radius down to an absolute minimum the train can get around. Especially not if your main goal is to create a layout where you want to admire longish trains running through mountain scenery more than a layout where small switchers will do street running in a cramped urban environment to spot single cars at industries. But your layout, your decisions. Just do a mockup and test how it looks to you. If it doesn't work, just redo whatever doesn't work - it is no disaster. Change is typical of model railroad layouts :-) Smile, Stein
Great advice Stein. And thanks. I know this may sound dumb but HOW does one measure radius? Do I need PI? Is it measured 22" or 20" or whatever ACROSS the track? I mean across the widest point? How do I know the size? Do I draw a 20" circle and halve it? I'm sure it's simple math like that isn't it?
Thanks, Paul
Based upon his lack of experience, I say that the removable sections will do him in.
Rich
Alton Junction
Paul_in_GA Great advice Stein. And thanks. I know this may sound dumb but HOW does one measure radius? Do I need PI? Is it measured 22" or 20" or whatever ACROSS the track? I mean across the widest point? How do I know the size? Do I draw a 20" circle and halve it? I'm sure it's simple math like that isn't it?
Radius is measured from the center of the circle to the center of the track (midway between the two rails rails). Diameter is the distance from one side of the circle through the center to the opposite side of the circle. To draw e.g. a quarter circle of radius 24", you can use a cardboard or plywood template. Put a nail at the center point of the circle, fasten a string to the nail, fasten a pencil at the 24" mark, keep string taut, draw curve. Cut along curve, place template on bench, mark track curve using template.
You can also purchase metal track alignment guides such as the Ribbonrail curved track alignment guide.
Yoy place the alignment guide between the rails of a section of flex track to form the exact radius.
Here is a link to the 22" radius alignment guide.
http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/170-1022
richhotrain You can also purchase metal track alignment guides such as the Ribbonrail curved track alignment guide. Yoy place the alignment guide between the rails of a section of flex track to form the exact radius. Here is a link to the 22" radius alignment guide. http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/170-1022 Rich
Be careful showing Paul anything he can buy.... it will be his next purchase!
Seriously, though, Paul -- Stein's drawings are to scale, yours isn't. I wasn't commenting on your actual measurements (30" is a common size for windows and doors in the US), but on the fact that distances marked as 30" were usually smaller than ones marked 2' 3" (27"), and that your 14' 6" x 14' (or is that 13" 11?) was noticeably rectangular, rather than being almost square.
The reason you're having trouble with the design is that you're not focused. You say you don't want a prototypical railroad with specific operations, just a couple of features and things that look "cool". There are so many billions of permutations of this statement that no human brain could possibly deal with it. Selecting a railroad, a location, and an era helps people visualize what things SHOULD look like, and what types of cars and industries should be there. It's ok if you don't want to represent a specific road and place -- your fantasy road can have little vignettes -- a city that looks like London, an American SW desert, African savannah, Northern Rockies or Swiss Alps. It's your layout, after all.
The root of the issue is the concept of "cool". What is cool to me may not be cool to you. You may be willing to put up with all kinds of operating headaches in order to incorporate a cool concept. I'm not.
Those of us who have helped others with designs can shoehorn a lot of things into the same space limitations. But we need to know WHAT to put in. The bottom line is that folks like Stein (who is a saint and will patiently throw design after design out there) can keep giving you proposals until finally, by trial and error, will find something you like. A better option would be for you to visit some layouts and take pictures of things you find cool that you'd like on your own layout, or to find pictures of them somewhere else (even of real railroads). Then old curmudgeons like me will try to help you get those into your space constraints.
Build a double mainline with two crossovers on a 4' x 8' table.
Get some experience track laying and running trains.
Keep it simple and get going - - - right now.
CTValleyRR richhotrain You can also purchase metal track alignment guides such as the Ribbonrail curved track alignment guide. Yoy place the alignment guide between the rails of a section of flex track to form the exact radius. Here is a link to the 22" radius alignment guide. http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/170-1022 Rich Be careful showing Paul anything he can buy.... it will be his next purchase! Seriously, though, Paul -- Stein's drawings are to scale, yours isn't. I wasn't commenting on your actual measurements (30" is a common size for windows and doors in the US), but on the fact that distances marked as 30" were usually smaller than ones marked 2' 3" (27"), and that your 14' 6" x 14' (or is that 13" 11?) was noticeably rectangular, rather than being almost square. The reason you're having trouble with the design is that you're not focused. You say you don't want a prototypical railroad with specific operations, just a couple of features and things that look "cool". There are so many billions of permutations of this statement that no human brain could possibly deal with it. Selecting a railroad, a location, and an era helps people visualize what things SHOULD look like, and what types of cars and industries should be there. It's ok if you don't want to represent a specific road and place -- your fantasy road can have little vignettes -- a city that looks like London, an American SW desert, African savannah, Northern Rockies or Swiss Alps. It's your layout, after all. The root of the issue is the concept of "cool". What is cool to me may not be cool to you. You may be willing to put up with all kinds of operating headaches in order to incorporate a cool concept. I'm not. Those of us who have helped others with designs can shoehorn a lot of things into the same space limitations. But we need to know WHAT to put in. The bottom line is that folks like Stein (who is a saint and will patiently throw design after design out there) can keep giving you proposals until finally, by trial and error, will find something you like. A better option would be for you to visit some layouts and take pictures of things you find cool that you'd like on your own layout, or to find pictures of them somewhere else (even of real railroads). Then old curmudgeons like me will try to help you get those into your space constraints.
I guess my drawings were the best I could do with the limited software program I use. I mean i had a tape mesaure and measured exactly what I put down. The graph paper may have been a little off but not by much.
As for rushing out to buy things, you're right, I have a tendency to do that but if I think it'll help I'll buy it, especially if it's an item to help me learn.
I can understand what you mean by COOL and WHAT to put in. I guess a coal mine would be nice with a train station on the other end. And maybe a business to deliver freigh to. As for billions of permutations, you're right. It is actually infinite I guess.
As for Stein, he is a great help, he has NO idea how MUCH I appreciate his help. I'm learning a lot from you guys though.
If anyone needs more photos or more exact measurements I'd be glad to provide them.
I think if I move my desk (again), move it back further I can have a lot of room. I don't mind taking my time either, I just want it right.
I plan on making little mock-ups and working my way up from there.
richhotrain Build a double mainline with two crossovers on a 4' x 8' table. Get some experience track laying and running trains. Keep it simple and get going - - - right now. Rich
Thanks Rich, ok, how? Any examples?
Paul_in_GA richhotrain Build a double mainline with two crossovers on a 4' x 8' table. Thanks Rich, ok, how? Any examples?
richhotrain Build a double mainline with two crossovers on a 4' x 8' table.
Just like this.
richhotrain Paul_in_GA richhotrain Build a double mainline with two crossovers on a 4' x 8' table. Thanks Rich, ok, how? Any examples? Just like this.
Ok, that looks doable but remember I'm still learning terms too. Is any part of it elevated? What tracks do I use at the crossover locations? Please go easy on me, I'm a greenhorn.
No elevations, just flat. The crossovers are each made up of a pair of matching turnouts. Two right hand turnouts, two left hand turnouts.
It is pretty basic, pretty simple, but it can be fun to operate. Plus, you can expand it by adding more turnouts for spurs and sidings, landscape it, ballast it, add some structures.
If you limit yourself to a 4' x 8' table, then there won't be any straight track on the ends, just 22" radius curves. But you will have some room for straight track and crossovers on the sides.
Dear Paul, My Fellow Georgian
Howdy. I'm over here in Buford next to the Mall of Georgia. I'm in a similar situation as you but with a different skill set. I've never wired anything before.
My now-four-year-old son's insatiable thirst for all things trains got me into this. I'm still not interested in it personally, but I love doing stuff for him.
I use a Mac so I bought RailModeller to design some plans. I've created more than 400 files with the program and ended up "punting" by settling for a double-oval with a single crossover on a used ping-pong table (5 x 9). It has a three-percent incline that never reaches its full height, and there are going to be a mountain with a tunnel, small yard, and one or two sidings inside the ovals. The layouts radii are about 27" around the outside loop and around 24" on the inside.
I had put off getting my hands dirty for about eighteen months and decided to just get busy and learn the best way most of us can--by experience. That's not my favorite way, but sitting here on the sofa with a computer wasn't getting much done.
If my son enjoys running his trains on this little layout, then I'll do my best to figure out how to build benchwork and build him a nicer layout.
You definitely found the right forum. There's so much knowledge and skill here, and the folks are eager to help.
Last night I glued down the cork roadbed around the two ovals on our layout. Today I'm back on the sofa with the computer to decide on the rest of the layout.
Here's what Max's humble layout looked like last night:
And here's my latest track plan:
I'll probably start soldering and laying flex track tomorrow (using just track nails to hold the track down temporarily). I plan to put down the cork roadbed for the switches and yard as I come to those. Then I plan to test, test, and test for derailments and uncouplings. I've enlisted my father-in-law's help to do the wiring and tortoise installation. He's sixty-five years old and has just one eye, but wiring is second nature for him, just like it is for you.
May we learn a lot, have some fun along the way, and produce some nice model railroads.
Sincerely,
Jaddie
Jaddie Dear Paul, My Fellow Georgian Howdy. I'm over here in Buford next to the Mall of Georgia. I'm in a similar situation as you but with a different skill set. I've never wired anything before. My now-four-year-old son's insatiable thirst for all things trains got me into this. I'm still not interested in it personally, but I love doing stuff for him. I use a Mac so I bought RailModeller to design some plans. I've created more than 400 files with the program and ended up "punting" by settling for a double-oval with a single crossover on a used ping-pong table (5 x 9). It has a three-percent incline that never reaches its full height, and there are going to be a mountain with a tunnel, small yard, and one or two sidings inside the ovals. The layouts radii are about 27" around the outside loop and around 24" on the inside. I had put off getting my hands dirty for about eighteen months and decided to just get busy and learn the best way most of us can--by experience. That's not my favorite way, but sitting here on the sofa with a computer wasn't getting much done. If my son enjoys running his trains on this little layout, then I'll do my best to figure out how to build benchwork and build him a nicer layout. You definitely found the right forum. There's so much knowledge and skill here, and the folks are eager to help. Last night I glued down the cork roadbed around the two ovals on our layout. Today I'm back on the sofa with the computer to decide on the rest of the layout. Here's what Max's humble layout looked like last night: And here's my latest track plan: I'll probably start soldering and laying flex track tomorrow (using just track nails to hold the track down temporarily). I plan to put down the cork roadbed for the switches and yard as I come to those. Then I plan to test, test, and test for derailments and uncouplings. I've enlisted my father-in-law's help to do the wiring and tortoise installation. He's sixty-five years old and has just one eye, but wiring is second nature for him, just like it is for you. May we learn a lot, have some fun along the way, and produce some nice model railroads. Sincerely, Jaddie
Hi Jaddie,
Awesome! I like your layout. If you ever need electrical help lemme know. You can PM me if you ever want to talk on the phone or get together. I live in Douglasville.
Jaddie and Rich have great advice (and you may recall seeing it in one of my earlier posts as well). You've got a boy chomping at the bit for a layout, and you yourself have yet to hit on inspiration.
So just get out there and throw some track down (but NOT on the floor). Use a simple loop or double loop, and throw in a couple of sidings. Don't mess with elevation changes at first, because they can cause all kinds of headaches. There's nothing wrong with a simple sheet of plywood to start.
Then let it expand organically. You can either plan expansions, or just build them. But this will help you focus on what you want, what you like, and what doesn't thrill you so much. And it doesn't HAVE to go around in a circle either, although that would probably appeal to your son.
CTValleyRR Jaddie and Rich have great advice (and you may recall seeing it in one of my earlier posts as well). You've got a boy chomping at the bit for a layout, and you yourself have yet to hit on inspiration. So just get out there and throw some track down (but NOT on the floor). Use a simple loop or double loop, and throw in a couple of sidings. Don't mess with elevation changes at first, because they can cause all kinds of headaches. There's nothing wrong with a simple sheet of plywood to start. Then let it expand organically. You can either plan expansions, or just build them. But this will help you focus on what you want, what you like, and what doesn't thrill you so much. And it doesn't HAVE to go around in a circle either, although that would probably appeal to your son.
Well, I have some track on order. I will have to buy the plywood but I have no idea how to get it from the store to my house as I don't have a pickup or know anyone who does. I watched the WS DVD and although he makes it LOOK east it really isn't. It isn't because you have to think WAY ahead.
My BIGGEST problem is I've been too trained all my life with my job and woodworking with working off highly detailed plans where every single last detail is measured and laid out. This is like flying by the seat of your pants which I'm not so good at. I know somewhat what I want but I need to make a detailed, a VERY detailed step-by-step plan of every step.
As for my son, well, he's 14, I'm divorced and I see him every other weekend so he's really just ambilevent about it all. He's more than willing to help me but it isn't his cup of tea. He'd rather play computer games.
As for myself, I really want to learn all this stuff so it's a long process. I don't mind waiting a little longer while I obtain all the stuff I need it's just I need detailed knowledge.
What I usually do is jump into something and learn everything I can about it from books, magazines, the Internet, and forums like this. Especially forums like this.
So after watching that DVD I now realize I have a long way to go. I just want to do this right. I can see people telling me to do a small layout and I plan on doing just that now but I also don't want to waste a lot of money building multiple layouts. That's why I have several of the WS learning kits on the way.
When it comes to things like this I have more skill than artistic talent. There's the rub.
Paul_in_GA As for rushing out to buy things, you're right, I have a tendency to do that but if I think it'll help I'll buy it, especially if it's an item to help me learn. I can understand what you mean by COOL and WHAT to put in. I guess a coal mine would be nice with a train station on the other end. And maybe a business to deliver freigh to. As for billions of permutations, you're right. It is actually infinite I guess. I think if I move my desk (again), move it back further I can have a lot of room. I don't mind taking my time either, I just want it right. I plan on making little mock-ups and working my way up from there.
Hello Paul,
I have read both of your threads and have to say you are moving along quickly, especially purchasing items that you might find useful.
I think now is a good time to focus your thoughts on what type of layout you want, and how specifically you will go about achieving that. Reading some of the publications you bought would be a good start.
Rich's idea of starting simple is a very good one, but there is no reason why those simple loops cannot have some type of focus or theme.
You are probably at the point where building some type of layout will be helpful. Stop and think a bit about what you want from a layout. Ask yourself some questions:
Why did you get into the hobby? Do you like locomotives, box cars, tanker cars. Do you like mountain or urban scenery. Do you live near or frequently drive by some train related area that you want to bring into your office layout.
At this point, everything you see in the hobby probably looks cool. But seriously try to think about the one or two things that really drew you into the hobby. If you focus your efforts from this point on towards satisfying that one or two major item(s), you won't be wasting time and money on things you ultimately might not care about as much.
In future posts or threads, try to tell us what those big "needs" and "if possibles" are (called givens and druthers in hobby terms) and you will find members to be even more helpful.
Edit: And you don't need to build anything for a while. Its more important to have your major theme thought about before you start cutting wood.
- Douglas
I guess my theme would be this. A coal company where I can haul coal, to where I have no idea. I'd like mountains and elevated railway on at least one part of it, lots of rock cliff faces with trees above, and a separate area with a station and a separate train that will carry passengers to a train station Kind of like two RR's in one. I have two locos so far. The CSX U23B and the small Bachman diesel 44 ton switcher. Also, I read somewhere that Bachman DCC trains are a pain, is this true? If so then I can take it back to the store as I haven't even opened it yet.
I'd have a street and houses and small businesses along the line. I like tanker cars, box cars, hoppers, and passenger cars. I don't know if they make small passenger cars becuase from what I read they need LARGE radius turns, unless someone makes smaller cars? I think that would be my foucus for what it's worth. And, thanks for your advice, I appreciate it and need it a LOT!
I agree with CTValley. Since you are new, it's far more important to get those trains up and running. Once you have the trackwork down, and designed the way you like it, you can always "flesh-in" the scenery later. A clean sheet of new plywood to me is like a canvas just waiting for something promising to emerge.
fifedog I agree with CTValley. Since you are new, it's far more important to get those trains up and running. Once you have the trackwork down, and designed the way you like it, you can always "flesh-in" the scenery later. A clean sheet of new plywood to me is like a canvas just waiting for something promising to emerge.
Agreed.
When I started in the hobby, I constructed an 8' x 12' plywood table with two pop up holes so that I could reach the center of the layout. Laid track to form a double main line with crossovers and turnouts into spurs. Ran trains, experienced derailments, corrected track work, experienced frustrations, but overall had a ball.
At the same time, I used a 2' x 2' scrap piece of plywood with a piece of flex track nailed to it to experiment with ballasting and landscaping, ground cover, trees, bushes and a small pond.
I have said it before. You need to learn to crawl before you learn to walk, and you need to learn to walk before you can learn to run.
In the meantime, you can read books and that is helpful, but there is no better learning tool than hands on experience.
Paul_in_GA I guess my theme would be this. A coal company where I can haul coal, to where I have no idea. I'd like mountains and elevated railway on at least one part of it, lots of rock cliff faces with trees above, and a separate area with a station and a separate train that will carry passengers to a train station Kind of like two RR's in one. I have two locos so far. The CSX U23B and the small Bachman diesel 44 ton switcher. Also, I read somewhere that Bachman DCC trains are a pain, is this true? If so then I can take it back to the store as I haven't even opened it yet. I'd have a street and houses and small businesses along the line. I like tanker cars, box cars, hoppers, and passenger cars. I don't know if they make small passenger cars becuase from what I read they need LARGE radius turns, unless someone makes smaller cars? I think that would be my foucus for what it's worth. And, thanks for your advice, I appreciate it and need it a LOT!
OK Paul,
This is starting to get good. I may have missed it (since you have two threads about this subject), but have you made a list of your "Givens and Druthers"?
From what I can piece together (so this is most likely incorrect):
Givens:
Room is (approx) 14x14, and used as an office currently. There's a desk, some bookshelves, etc that need to be navigated around (and left accessible).
Druthers:
Era -- mid-late 1980s (based on the U23B; as one lettered for CSX wouldn't have been around til then)22" Min RadiusCoal CompanyOther small businesses that utilize tank cars, boxcars, hoppers and the 44-tonnerPassenger ServiceMountains or some other reason for elevation change of the track.
Given this list, it'll be a lot easier for the people here to help you in nailing down a plan, or at least enough of a plan so that you can get started on your layout.
-Dan
Builder of Bowser steam! Railimages Site
NeO6874 Paul_in_GA I guess my theme would be this. A coal company where I can haul coal, to where I have no idea. I'd like mountains and elevated railway on at least one part of it, lots of rock cliff faces with trees above, and a separate area with a station and a separate train that will carry passengers to a train station Kind of like two RR's in one. I have two locos so far. The CSX U23B and the small Bachman diesel 44 ton switcher. Also, I read somewhere that Bachman DCC trains are a pain, is this true? If so then I can take it back to the store as I haven't even opened it yet. I'd have a street and houses and small businesses along the line. I like tanker cars, box cars, hoppers, and passenger cars. I don't know if they make small passenger cars becuase from what I read they need LARGE radius turns, unless someone makes smaller cars? I think that would be my foucus for what it's worth. And, thanks for your advice, I appreciate it and need it a LOT! OK Paul, This is starting to get good. I may have missed it (since you have two threads about this subject), but have you made a list of your "Givens and Druthers"? From what I can piece together (so this is most likely incorrect): Givens: Room is (approx) 14x14, and used as an office currently. There's a desk, some bookshelves, etc that need to be navigated around (and left accessible). Druthers: Era -- mid-late 1980s (based on the U23B; as one lettered for CSX wouldn't have been around til then)22" Min RadiusCoal CompanyOther small businesses that utilize tank cars, boxcars, hoppers and the 44-tonnerPassenger ServiceMountains or some other reason for elevation change of the track. Given this list, it'll be a lot easier for the people here to help you in nailing down a plan, or at least enough of a plan so that you can get started on your layout.
Hi Dan, yes, you are right, this is what I'd like to see but I will understand if I don't have the room. This hobby has a huge learning curve which I'm trying to negotiate right now. So much to learn and I have so many questions.