After cutting and removing plastic ties at the end of each 3 ft section of flex track to add joiners, what's the best adhesive to attach wood ties to both the cork and rail to secure everything? Thanks....
For the tie-to-roadbed, I would use a yellow carpenter's glue, like Titebond. For the tie-to-rail, I would use a spike, just like the prototype. If you still want to use an adhesive, then I would go with Pliobond. I used it when laying rail on my curved trestle and it's worked great.
Scott
Following Scott's recomendation but do sand the ties to the proper thickness,
Is there a reason that you need to use the wood tie, say for better anchoring, bridge abutment, or a transition to handlaid etc? Generally all you need to do is slip the extra plastic ties into place. Some sanding to thin or file a trough to clear the rail joiner not to cause a hump, is all you need. Very little glue is needed to hold the plastic ties as they will be secured when ballasting. At my club, we will do this and if added hold for track adjustments are needed, we spike the rail flange toward the joint.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
I'm building MR's Virginian project layout, and used some snap switches, so the "U" shaped ties at each end of these were cut off, and need to be filled in. Also, several pieces of flex track were difficult to get the code 83 rail joiners in without also cutting off the end ties...
The wooden ties under my specialwork are secured to the roadbed (sculpted extruded foam - cork is a non-starter here) with the same grey Latex caulk I use to secure plastic flex track ties. Rails are spiked.
At joints on flex, I carve away just enough of the top of the plastic tie strip, immediately under the rail ends, to allow inserting a rail joiner. The joint may not even be at the end of a section of ties - I slide the rails to stagger the joints. Since I pre-curve the rail ends on curves, I don't find it necessary to use anything to anchor the joint. It's held by the next ties over.
Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - on trackwork as bulletproof as I can make it)
That's a good method Chuck, will allow for the best sweep for the curved rail joints.
I have been putting a little yellow glue down,spread it around with a toothpick, and then slide the prestained wood ties under the rails. It's such a small section, I don't see a need to reattach the rails to the ties.
Have fun,
Philip