I'm getting close to addressing two HO tunnel portals, one single track and one double, that both need to be wider opening width than typical. In the first case, it's over a turnout; in the second, the track spacing plus planning for longer rolling stock means extra width. In an earlier thread, some recommended splicing commercial ones but that looks a bit tricky to get done (e.g., with stone but even with concrete) given the relief aspects, keystones, etc.
After again reviewing products, I'm inclined to try scratch building timber portals and seek any guidance on how to's. I'm thinking a plywood backing, easy to cut on the band saw. Then add a layer of horizontal "timbers" of maybe 1/8" wood (appropriate size?) and atop that add 1/8" "framing" timbers. I have a scrap piece of 1/8" Hobby Lobby wood (balsa?) and wonder if a denser version is needed. Could/should I add spikes on the framing pieces for details? How to finish??? Let me know your ideas please, plus any reference info that might be available other than pics of commercial products (which can suffice).
Thanks, as always.
Paul
Modeling HO with a transition era UP bent
Gidday, I think you're on the right track regarding scratch building your tunnel portals as you can build them to suit your situation.
I scratch built some for the local club, no photos unfortunately, using wooden coffee stirrers which I "white glued" on to a corrugated card board backing. The coffee stirrers, which we pre stained to look that greyish, silver weathered finish. are about an HO scale 18" x 6"
I added the bolt / spike details using a 2B pencil and smeared a bit of soot from the fireplace to simulate the smoke stains.
Perhaps abit of a cheapskate method but looks OK using the "3 foot rule".
I know its a model photo but here's what I very loosely based my ones on....
http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/images/C1254B.JPG
The May 1969 Model Railroader has plans for a Western Pacific timber tunnel portal.
Have fun
Cheers,the Bear.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Hi peahrens
I made a wooden tunnel mouth many moons ago.
My rather crude effort was a top beam two support posts corner braces in top corners and angle braces to the front one each side.
I thought it looked great at the time and it was very simple to make
If I was to make the same thing today I would add some steel joint braces and nut and bolt castings, but I would in all probabilaty still use the very simple frame structure.
regards John
Hi!
May I offer a piece of advice on the laying of the track in the roundhouse (or any other structure)?
Test fit a loco or two to determine how far in they can safely go without damaging the loco or the structure. Then, put a block or serious wheel stop on the tracks at that point. In my engine house, I hot glued a piece of stripwood across the rails and painted it black, making it almost invisible.
As careful as we may be, sooner or later a DCC loco will drift to the end of track, or we will start up a recently serviced loco in the wrong direction. Yup, been there, done that.
ENJOY !
Mobilman44
Living in southeast Texas, formerly modeling the "postwar" Santa Fe and Illinois Central
Peahrens,
I also needed (wanted) timber portals for my double track which is on a curve and needed to be wider. I scratch built mine using wood coffee sticks. I first drew out the patent on graft paper the size needed. I then cut the wood sticks to size and glue them together over the patent. This will insure everything is square and true.The retaining walls are also built the same way. I hope this helps. Sam
If you're only considering timber portals because of the ease of creating them, you might also consider using 3/4" foam to make concrete portals. I am doing all of my portals this way. I trace the outline of the portal on the foam and then using a scroll saw I cut them out. I then scribe the joint lines using a ball point pen before removing the plastic sheet that covers the foam. The resulting portal looks like this:
Here are some after painting and applying wash installed on layout.
These portals only take a few minutes each to make and you could probably also make them to look like timber portals.
My Layout Pics
Thanks, all. I indeed will try the timber approach; thanks for the examples. Need to find some coffee stirrers (grocerey store, perhaps?). I see them on Amazon but don't plan to order a lifetime supply except for portals purposes (I drink my coffee black).
Thanks, all. I indeed will try the timber approach; thanks for the examples. Need to find some coffee stirrers (grocery store, perhaps?). I see them on Amazon but don't plan to order a lifetime supply except for portals purposes (I drink my coffee black).
peahrens Thanks, all. I indeed will try the timber approach; thanks for the examples. Need to find some coffee stirrers (grocery store, perhaps?). I see them on Amazon but don't plan to order a lifetime supply except for portals purposes (I drink my coffee black).
You could try the craft section of a toy store or craft store these often have packs of pop sticks also usable for tunnel mouths
The other place to try is an office supply store believe it or not, a lot of them do actually stock coffee sugar coffee stirrers etc one bag will supply a life times tunnel mouths, glue and hobby paint stirrers, card structure stiffeners and flat car loads and probably a few things I have not thought of.
Although the coffee stirrers will work to represent the retaining boards, the timbers should be of a much larger size. To simulate rough graining, weathering and wear you can heavily sand/ scratch up the sticks or stripwood before finer sanding down and staining. Even dragging a razor saw down the boards works quite well. I perfer using Basswood over balsa, just like the way it will take the stain.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
I did not find wood coffee stirrer type sticks in the grocery, office supply or one kitchen store but indeed found them in the craft store (Hobby Lobby). I cut the plywood backing for both portals today and added the coffee sticks for retaining timbers and then used 3/16" balsa (equivalent 16") for the framing timbers. I found out how to (and not to) overlap what with what to cover most joints correctly. Didn't know about basswood...will look into that for next projects. I did not prestain anything...hope the 2 types of wood take the stain similarly and any white glue does not block the staining. I could use advise on what staining options make sense. I'll post a photo of the unstained or the stained soon. Thanks to all.
Here are a couple photos of the semi-final product. As I had noted, I should have pre-stained the wood but fortunately did not have much excess glue problem. I made a modified pre-stain mix per a web article someone highlighted in another thread and just painted it on as a wash. It was diluted (less than in the article) india ink plus acrylic black, raw umber and burnt umber. I added some burnt sienna to give it a bit more brown tone. I learned that the first impression, painted on wet, does not look much like the final tones when it dries. It painted on looking quite blackish but dried a nice mix of gray, brown, black mix. The flash photos look a bit better than actual regarding uniformity of tone; some areas are a bit too light so I will touch up a bit more. I was making a Walthers order so I ordered some bolts to add, but not at all sure I ordered the right thing. A bit of weathering, smoke stain, etc can be added (how to be determined).
More generally, this was certainly fun. I think it turned out pretty well for a first attempt. It also sets me up to use these type materials for other retaining walls, etc, than I can custom built instead of making commercial products "fit". I figured the cost per portal about $3, not counting scrap plywood backing nor the ink/craft paints I bought that will last a very long while. I also bought a couple Minwax stains but didn't try them. I found cutting the smaller pieces interesting(!)...on the radial saw the pieces were likely somewhere in the garage but not visible...the small miter box with Excel saw was too difficult...but fortunately the relatively slow moving band saw did the trick easily (finally justified it...should I figure that in the cost?.
Once again, the forum came through for me. With this problem solved, I can get back to the trackwork.
I have done a lot of wood modeling and for something like what you are describing, I would have stuck with the Balsa. It is easy to work with, low-cost and a lot stronger than most would believe I am putting the finishing touches on a 26" long, single track HO bridge which is way stronger than is necessary. I used the old razor saw technique to add grain and .1" styrene and NBWs to visually hold it together. I will easily hold a 4-8-4 heavy and passenger cars. I only use the balsa for rough structures or timber linings for those tunnels.
Instead of the plywood, try taking 1/16" sheet balsa and scribing the boards in it with the back of a craft knife. Then suitable 1/8" square timbers for supports/retainers.
Although lots of people use the black ink alcohol mix for staining and it certainly is easy. Living in Colorado, I have observed that wood is predominately tan and ages to reddish brown with black water stains where it comes in contact with the ground. Kiwi brown or Lincoln British Tan shoe come very close to those reddish colors. Not to say some things still get that gray color too. Probably depends on the wood and its exposure.
peahrens More generally, this was certainly fun.
More generally, this was certainly fun.
Gidday, Great to see you had fun, and I for one would be proud to have them on my layout .
Cheers, the Bear