I've got Atlas code 83 track, and WS foamroad bed. This is going on top of foam board as well as the WS foam inclines. I'm wondering if track spikes (like what Pelle Soeberg uses) would work fine with this or if i have to worry about it shifting vs. using cork roadbed.
Hold my beer... ya'll watch this!
I didn't have much success with track nails. I ended up using floor tile cement (I had some of that) to glue the roadbed down. I used track nails to hold the track while I used some carpenters glue to glue the track down.
Without cork, there just is no easy way to do it.
Roger Hensley= ECI Railroad - http://madisonrails.railfan.net/eci/eci_new.html == Railroads of Madison County - http://madisonrails.railfan.net/ =
I've had great success with DAP Alex Plus Latex caulk. It's only $2/tube at your local home improvement center and it holds very well.
You can use the caulk on the foam board, foam road bed, and track. It gives you ~45 minutes of working time (for adjustments) before it begins to set up. I usually let it cure 8 hours or overnight.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
This stuff:
Spread this thin:
Holds tight, is invisible when dry, pulls up cleanly if you ever need a change.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
The major concern was if I had to pull something up... thanks, Dave! That set me at ease... I've been using PL 300 for most of the attachments to the foam board, and will likely use that to attach the roadbed to the foam.
I bought a couple tubes of the Alex Plus as well- for the exact purpose of laying the track. I'm glad to see it works that well and is that easy to work with.
Thanks!
Dave, I hve heard of the latex caulk approach. How well does it accept ballest once teh track is down?
RicZ
80kts
I use titebond yellow wood glue to glue corkbed to foam. I like this glue better than other adhesive because if you want to move it it will pop right up with a putty knife and not damage the foam or cork. I would think if you are gluing cork to ply wood or wood type products, that the bond would be so tite that can't be moved without destroying the cork or plywood.
I then use a cheap adhesive caulk to glue the track to the cork roadbed. Alittle goes a long way and should be applies very thin.
Jim
I have not applied ballast. However, I have applied ground cover over areas that had the DAP caulk on the surface and it posed no problem. I use diluted Elmer's white glue to apply ground cover and that sticks to the caulk with no problem. If you pry up caulked track, it leaves a very thin rubbery film on the back of the track which can be rubbed off with your fingers.
Diamond Jim 80kts I use titebond yellow wood glue to glue corkbed to foam. I like this glue better than other adhesive because if you want to move it it will pop right up with a putty knife and not damage the foam or cork. I would think if you are gluing cork to ply wood or wood type products, that the bond would be so tite that can't be moved without destroying the cork or plywood. ... Jim
...
True. I used Elmers yellow wood glue with cork on plywood. When I moved and salvaged the benchwork I mostly destroyed the roadbed in the process of removing it from the plywood. This is probably because I used too much glue. In a couple places where the glue wasn't thick I got most of the road bed up.
I find that track nails that extend into plywood work well (I pre-drill a slightly undersized hole first). I wouldn't think that they would work well over time in foam/foamboard although they might work temporarily while glue dries.
Enjoy
Paul
I use 2" "T" pins to hold the track while glue dries. You can get them in Craft/Sewing stores.
Jay
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