I've been experimenting with track placement on my layout and surveying many many prototypical photos as well as model photos- it seems as though with the light ballasting that yards and small industrial spurs have that using the roadbed is not necessary nor desired.
Anyone have any input?
Hold my beer... ya'll watch this!
For further clarification, I'm using the woodland scenics roadbed.... it looks like that using a hot wire may be most efficient in the transition cutting.
Gidday, Have came to the same conclusion as yourself regarding no roadbed in a yard, but depending on a particular spur would consider laying a couple of layers of thin card as road bed, (1), to give the spur a bit more prominence to the surrounding ground, (and while I may now come across as an anorak wearer),(2) to allow for to be able to scenic drainage.
Just my thoughts, I have been known to be wrong before, I think??
Cheers, The Bear.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
Tracks need to drain water, that is what the roadbed is for.
Main line roadbeds are built up and quite substantial, yet the LION thinks that they are "too built up" for HO, maybe N scale roadbed would look better. That said, while the LION has used roadbed on his previous two layouts, he did not use it at all on the Route of the Broadway LION. NYCT has at least five different types of trackways, only two of which use ballast. Mostly underground rails are set in concrete, and elevated rails are fixed to an open ironwork structure. (Older tunnels do have ballast, but you'd be hard pressed to discern a road bed such as a cork roadbed might produce.) Most of the places where ballast would be found on my layout do not require cork since the ROW is in an open cut. Here are samples of what I have built, with the track nailed directly to the sub-bed (Celotex).
The other issue that you have to watch out for in freight yards (more so than with industrial sidings) is that crewmen walk there, and they do not want the ground to be uneven or difficult to walk on. Some such as in inter-modal yards are fully paved. LION thinks that a much finer grade of ballast would be used (accepting the penalties in real-life that this would involve) in and active yard, be it a classification yard or a simple yard at regular crew-change points.
ROAR
The Route of the Broadway Lion The Largest Subway Layout in North Dakota.
Here there be cats. LIONS with CAMERAS
Virtually all tracks that bear a lot of weight consistently over time will need a proper roadbed. We do not confuse that requirement and process of sound engineering with the other process of ballasting the track the way they do in on their mains and spurs, keeping the ties bound by lots of clean crushed rock neatly groomed.
On our layouts, unless you like the low pitched noises of trains running on noisy tracks nailed to the frame, it is necessary to use a barrier of some kind to keep the noises at a minimum, particularly if you have paid for sound decoders and would rather hear them. So, you could get away with thin vinyl underlay strips under the tracks, but when the surroundings are scenicked, the tracks will look like industrial tracks without all the nice high ballast. That's the way I have done it. I keep the high rail look to the mains, and I do use plywood or cork or foam under those tracks to elevate them so that the ballast looks proper. Out in the boonies, in my yard...glued right to the plywood deck with DAP Alex Plus with silicon. I like the stuff that dries clear.
My yard, below, has yellow vinyl underlay caulked to the plywood bench top, and then the tracks are caulked directly to the underlay. Atop the underlay is a mix of sifted garden soil and plaster of Paris to keep it fixed.
You can purchase cork sheets for your yard, at varying thicknesses. Transition from the main to a lower yard/siding height.
I read that some folks even like using N scale cork roadbed for their mainlines, as HO is a pretty darn high profile. On my last layout, I used the HO cork roadbed, and I thought it looked awful high, the jury is still out on what to do on my new layout(planning stage).
Yard trackage can be really variable. Well-maintained yards with lots of trackage may have considerable efforts to promote drainage evident, in which case using roadbed only slightly lower than mainline may depict it best.
Old, poorly maintained or little used yards will slowly sink into the mud, so to speak.
There's also the issue of footing. Hump yards have less of an issue, because things are automated and workers rarely are in the "bowl." Flat-switching yards tend to be more walkable, as you don't want turned ankles for climbing over each track's ditches.
Mike Lehman
Urbana, IL
We're discussing the same thing in the thread about stock pens.
I have a small yard that I made the mistake of initially laying on roadbed. I ended up filling in the space, so the yard itself is generally flat.
If you are planning to spot cars in the yard using the Kadee "delayed uncoupling" feature, it's a good idea to make sure the whole track path from yard throat to bumpers is pretty flat. Otherwise, all your nice cars with smooth-running metal wheels will run away from your switcher, or "follow it home" if the sidings are actually uphill a bit from the throat.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
80ktsClamp For further clarification, I'm using the woodland scenics roadbed.... it looks like that using a hot wire may be most efficient in the transition cutting.
Hot wire is designed for the pink or blue insulation foam used in home construction. I don't think you want to use it on WS roadbed. That can be easily cut with a hobby knife or even scissors.
Back in my school days, I actually was able to wander freely over local yards and mainlines. I was kind of confused once, after reading an article about proper shaping of full size roadbed. Neither mainline nor yard trackage ever seemed to match the profiles in the articles. While B&O and Nickle Plate mains at least had the nice sloped edges, the B&O yards, car shop, and roundhouse area and some N-P sidings were just flat areas like laying snap track on a flat table and spreading ballast. Instead of using the regular strip roadbed that gives a nice profiled 1/4" underlaynment, use the thin cork sheets or maybe 1/8" art type foamboard as an underlayment for it's noise reducing effect.
I'll agree with others on here, it's up to you but the prototype really varied on this. Best bet is always to pic a picture of what you want the area to look like and copy it as best you can. In all of my smaller towns off the main I chose to skip the profile.
Check out the Deming Sub by clicking on the pics:
On my ISLs I prefer all track to be on the same level so,I use Woodland Scenics 12"x24" foam roadbed sheet.
The same applies for my yard area on the few loop layouts I've built..I prefer my industrial sidings to be a tad lower then my main line.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
I remember the old PC and Conrail yards in northern Ohio. If you want to be prototypical then you will have to sink the rails below the table top into the mud. Mud pumping was the norm.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
I've been off at work the past few days and haven't been able to respond. Thanks for the input!
I'm certainly leaning toward little roadbed or non at all for the yard area. I may have to snag some N-scale stuff and see what that looks like. I have 3 primary yard tracks, plus a town service spur as well as a engine servicing spur. It seems like different heights may be the best option with the different uses of the track.